My LQ4/spray 1986 RX7...
08-23-2006, 08:57 PM
#1
My LQ4/spray 1986 RX7... Well, I've spent the past few days getting my 6.0L put together and the engine bay configured.
The engine setup is as follows:
2001 LQ4; full align hone and torque plate hone on cylinders; new GM rings and stock pistons/rods/crank; Clevite 77 bearings; ARP wave-loc rod bolts, ARP pro series head bolts, GM MLS gaskets (stock thickness). Heads are 317s decked .010 and cleaned up and have crane dual springs w/ Ti retainers, TSP hardened pushrods. I custom ported the throttle body myself. The rear -AN lines are for the PCV setup.
Nitrous stage 1 is a 75 wet shot, ColdFusion/NOS based setup that I put together, shooting through a single nozzle on a power ring setup; this is off of a 4 AN line from a 10 lbs bottle in the back.
Nitrous stage 2 is a 225 wet shot, direct port. It's a NOS Pro Race fogger system converted to Noszles; According to NOS I should be able to flow a 400 shot through these without any issue, and a ~450 before I'm really pushing the limits of the hardware. Up front is a 1 gallon tank feeding a Holly Blue pump with a regulator feeding the fuel side, 116 octane will be feeding the pump. This will be a SLOW ramping progressive setup to keep my pistons in one piece, and depending on how things look on the wideband, may get jetted down more, but hey, I'm trying to be optimistic here... Pistons will be getting swapped to forged this spring, along with a stroker kit. :elefant:
CAI is something I fabbed up a few months back, keeps my intake temps with 15-20* of ambient, even at a stop; I think I can do even better with some tweaking.
Exhaust manifolds are heavily ported and painted with DEI 2000* header paint.
I moved the coil packs out of the way for a few reasons: opens up the top of the motor for easier service; easier to get to my plugs; better clearance for the nitrous; and, mostly, it looks cool. :top:
...on to pictures...
The engine setup is as follows:
2001 LQ4; full align hone and torque plate hone on cylinders; new GM rings and stock pistons/rods/crank; Clevite 77 bearings; ARP wave-loc rod bolts, ARP pro series head bolts, GM MLS gaskets (stock thickness). Heads are 317s decked .010 and cleaned up and have crane dual springs w/ Ti retainers, TSP hardened pushrods. I custom ported the throttle body myself. The rear -AN lines are for the PCV setup.
Nitrous stage 1 is a 75 wet shot, ColdFusion/NOS based setup that I put together, shooting through a single nozzle on a power ring setup; this is off of a 4 AN line from a 10 lbs bottle in the back.
Nitrous stage 2 is a 225 wet shot, direct port. It's a NOS Pro Race fogger system converted to Noszles; According to NOS I should be able to flow a 400 shot through these without any issue, and a ~450 before I'm really pushing the limits of the hardware. Up front is a 1 gallon tank feeding a Holly Blue pump with a regulator feeding the fuel side, 116 octane will be feeding the pump. This will be a SLOW ramping progressive setup to keep my pistons in one piece, and depending on how things look on the wideband, may get jetted down more, but hey, I'm trying to be optimistic here... Pistons will be getting swapped to forged this spring, along with a stroker kit. :elefant:
CAI is something I fabbed up a few months back, keeps my intake temps with 15-20* of ambient, even at a stop; I think I can do even better with some tweaking.
Exhaust manifolds are heavily ported and painted with DEI 2000* header paint.
I moved the coil packs out of the way for a few reasons: opens up the top of the motor for easier service; easier to get to my plugs; better clearance for the nitrous; and, mostly, it looks cool. :top:
...on to pictures...
08-23-2006, 10:32 PM
#5
Originally Posted by mr2guru
What rear are you running? TII?
I'm putting in an S4 8" LSD setup, preferrably modified for 3.90 ratio using the minivan parts before it sees any real launching. I can beat on this one pretty well though, can't break it when you don't have any traction.
I've got a spare cradle in the garage I'm sandblasting, powdercoating, and replacing all bushing on (I've already got the DTSS eliminators and poly bushings for it), that the TII setup will go on. The rest of the car already has coilovers and poly bushings on it. Not really related, but it's DOT5 fluid with PF Carbon Metallic pads, earl's lines and slotted rotors on the brakes as well. TII master w/ N/A booster.Random info, all nitrous feeds are triple filtered on the big shot; one at the tank, one inline, one at each solenoid, little shot has one at the bottle and one at the noid. Fuel is triple on the big shot (one at the tank, inline and solenoid) and single filtered (at the noid) on the small shot.
Thanks for the compliments guys, I can't wait to drive it; hopefully I can put more then 500 miles on this LSx setup.
08-24-2006, 12:39 AM
#7
Originally Posted by Beaflag VonRathburg
That things sweet, but do you think those stock pistons are going to take a 300 shot? I seriously doubt it. Good work!
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08-24-2006, 06:27 PM
#8
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Dibs on first ride..... ok maybe after your wife....very nice.
If you are going to spray it first ride, maybe I should ride.... better pusher lol
Very nice, you have come a long way since I last saw it.
If you are going to spray it first ride, maybe I should ride.... better pusher lol
Very nice, you have come a long way since I last saw it.
08-24-2006, 08:28 PM
#9
Originally Posted by indiana warmrod
Dibs on first ride..... ok maybe after your wife....very nice.
If you are going to spray it first ride, maybe I should ride.... better pusher lol
Very nice, you have come a long way since I last saw it.
If you are going to spray it first ride, maybe I should ride.... better pusher lol
Very nice, you have come a long way since I last saw it.
I'm having some problems getting it to fire currently; I redid some wiring work (I can't leave well enough alone) after the last time I had it running with the LS1 in it, and I figure I probably snipped something; either that, or my crank sensor is bad; I'll dig through tomorrow and get it figured out, it's nothing a few minutes with a multimeter can't sort out.
08-25-2006, 08:11 AM
#12
Originally Posted by indiana warmrod
Call me if you need a scanner.
I have a Genesis with all the software and full datastream display if you need it.
May save you some time.
I have a Genesis with all the software and full datastream display if you need it.
May save you some time.
08-25-2006, 04:53 PM
#13
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Looks comparable and yours might allow more tuning parameters.
The Genesis is similar to the GM Tech and Snap On units. In fact Mac Tools markets it under their label.
It does allow real time monitoring of all sensors like cam position, crank position ect. values in addition to the throttle position, temp, map values that many of them have. If yours does that information I think you have it covered.
Good Luck, holler if you think it might help
The Genesis is similar to the GM Tech and Snap On units. In fact Mac Tools markets it under their label.
It does allow real time monitoring of all sensors like cam position, crank position ect. values in addition to the throttle position, temp, map values that many of them have. If yours does that information I think you have it covered.
Good Luck, holler if you think it might help
08-25-2006, 09:24 PM
#14
Got it!
Crank Position Sensor was toast apparently. Luckily, I have a pile of Gen III motors, and had a spare. Noticed there was no RPM registering when I cranked it today, that was the tip I needed. Swapped the spare in, fired at the touch of the key. Now I've got to start working on the base tune; I'm currently idling at ~1600 RPM once it warms up; it's a steady idle, so I don't think it's a vacuum leak, likely an IAC or throttle blade issue. Not a biggie.
My fans aren't kicking in now either, so I've got some wire checking to do there; I wanted to redo that harness anyway, so it works out.
Finally, my tranny is blowing fluid out the back; I think my driveshaft is a little short and not seating perfectly; I'm going to pick up a 1" longer yoke and replace the rear seals on the tranny. Apparently my struts are total junk as well, feels like riding inside a pogo stick. Other then the little stuff, it drives great, 50 psi of oil pressure at 1900 RPM, so I'm happy. I'll start fixing the nagging problems over the next few days, and see if I can start putting some miles on it before the weather gets too cold for me (no heat )
Crank Position Sensor was toast apparently. Luckily, I have a pile of Gen III motors, and had a spare. Noticed there was no RPM registering when I cranked it today, that was the tip I needed. Swapped the spare in, fired at the touch of the key. Now I've got to start working on the base tune; I'm currently idling at ~1600 RPM once it warms up; it's a steady idle, so I don't think it's a vacuum leak, likely an IAC or throttle blade issue. Not a biggie.
My fans aren't kicking in now either, so I've got some wire checking to do there; I wanted to redo that harness anyway, so it works out.
Finally, my tranny is blowing fluid out the back; I think my driveshaft is a little short and not seating perfectly; I'm going to pick up a 1" longer yoke and replace the rear seals on the tranny. Apparently my struts are total junk as well, feels like riding inside a pogo stick.
Other then the little stuff, it drives great, 50 psi of oil pressure at 1900 RPM, so I'm happy. I'll start fixing the nagging problems over the next few days, and see if I can start putting some miles on it before the weather gets too cold for me (no heat )
08-27-2006, 06:13 PM
#15
Well, today I fixed the fan harness and tracked down the tranny fluid leak. My tranny mount I moved over from my 700r4 was apparently seating improperly and put a very fine crack in the tailhousing. I ground out the crack and sealed it with some cold weld putty, no more issues. I'll put a new tailhousing in this winter (may just rebuild the tranny while I'm at it) but it's a no-pressure zone, so I'm not particularly worried about the cold weld, I've watched it survive on turbo Funny Bikes.
I'm going to take it out and about tonight, and see if I can flush any more problems out. I still have the high idle, but I'm going to try letting the PCM learn for a bit and see if it comes down a little; just 10 minutes of idling today brought it down 200-300 RPM. We shall see.
Jack,
I'll give you a call as soon as I get it running well and take you for a ride; you'll be sold on converting the 'vert.
I'm going to take it out and about tonight, and see if I can flush any more problems out. I still have the high idle, but I'm going to try letting the PCM learn for a bit and see if it comes down a little; just 10 minutes of idling today brought it down 200-300 RPM. We shall see.
Jack,
I'll give you a call as soon as I get it running well and take you for a ride; you'll be sold on converting the 'vert.
08-27-2006, 06:36 PM
#16
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my friends 2000 camaro broke the rear tail housing on his car. we think it was becausre he had a poly trans mount and stock motor mounts. it cracked it 360 degrees, all the way around the tail shaft, id highly suggest taking it easy on that car untill you get a new tail shaft.
08-27-2006, 10:08 PM
#17
Originally Posted by Cop Car
my friends 2000 camaro broke the rear tail housing on his car. we think it was becausre he had a poly trans mount and stock motor mounts. it cracked it 360 degrees, all the way around the tail shaft, id highly suggest taking it easy on that car untill you get a new tail shaft.
There is no engine movement with the way my front mounts set the engine, so I don't think I'll have a problem there, but I will keep an eye on it. I'm on street tires right now, so I won't have enough traction to break anything that big anyway. 
I did put about 60 miles on it tonight; I have to get new struts before I drive it again, it literally almost hops on big dips in the road; Other then that and the damn high idle, it's doing quite good.
