After searching for an hour.... I'm still confused about which mount to use to install a 98 Fbody ls1/t56 in my 1970 chevelle.


What I want..

Shifter as close to natural position as possible.
OEM ls1 AC compressor be retained.
not to have to mod the trans tunnel.
Retain factory oil pan.
Not cost an arm and a leg.

Dont care about...

having to dent/cut/mod the X member.
Having the motor more forward than others.
steering box interference(switching to rack and pinion anyway)


What would you guyz recommend ?

I dont like the ones that get your motor way back because I believe that they cause the tranny/tunnel clearance problem AND move your shifter too far back.

 

The tunnel issue is non-negotiable. You have zero choice if you plan to run a T56, it must be removed.
Also- using the A/C compressor in a stock location with a retention of a factory oil pan is also out, not going to happen on an A-body.

It is good that you don't mind cutting up the crossmember, because no one makes one for this swap, so it means fabrication for a successful installation.

As for the last comment here is the skinny on the shifter myth-
The orginial 4 speed had the stick placed very far forward, and had a stick that curved back toward the driver so it would:
A.) clear a bench seat
B.) be reachable by the driver

The shifter on a T56 will be in a direct line with the steering wheel. You take your right hand off the wheel, let it fall toward the console area, and it will land on a T56 gear select ****. That is not "too far back" unless you are under 4'11".
Also A-body cars have a trans tunnel about the size of a watermelon. A T56 cannot fit into the tunnel no matter whose mounts you use- There WILL be cutting involved.

Tyler

 

You should use an Advance Search and search on the userID of the Chevelle guys (or G-Body) to narrow you search down.

You can use McLeod shifter kits to move the shifter around or to the forward plate. I am using a Viper T56 that uses a forward location. I started with a F-Body T56, but it came up righti into my Bench seat.. so the Stronger Viper T56 worked out to be a good location it is about 4 inch forward of a F-Body T56. Will have to build a shifter handle from a old hurst one.

If you use the BRP style mounts, you can use the F-Body oil pan and the OEM A/C compressor and mounts, but will have to notch the frame/x-member. I did and moved my frame mounts back some and drill new holes, I also narrowed them and used spacer to Jack the engine back and forth... to center between the engine between the two areas that come in to contact, that being 1) Power Steering pulley and the Steering box, 2) Right side head and the firewall/AC heater box. But with Rack & Pinion, it is a non-issue.

With a T56 and the BRP style mounts, you will have to mod the Trans Tunnel. you can mod it by cutting a T-slot and spread it apart, or cut the top off and replace.. With the BRP mount location, you can reuse the stock Tran X-member by cutting off the mount, flip it and weld it back. (not sure about S&P, ask someone who has.)

I made by mounts/plate from 1/4" steel stock with just hand power tools (drill, cutting wheels, grinder, etc). just the cost of the plate.. as I did for the Clutch Master with 1/8" steel..

So mounts and adapter can be cheap if you make them, it's the other stuff that is going to cost.. upgrading the fuel system, electrical, fans, etc.

I used an 95 B-Body Impala gas tank and Racetronix pump and kit, SS hard line in the stock location and 99 vette Fuel filter and regualor to save some of the cost. But depending on the engine output, the stock pump will get you by.

hope that helps some. You can see my project as I am almost finished.. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2353903

 

Well heres what Ive done so far.... I used S&P mounts. I also bought a complete front drive system from them, (not cheap!!) which lets me run air. (without notcing the frame) This kit was custom made for me because Im doing the twin turbo thing. S&P runs their engines more forward so you dont need to cut as much of the trans tunnel as most other mounts do.

With the trans... I bought a new Viper T56. I talked to a guy at D&D, he said a guy their has a 70 w/ Viper trans and runs a factory consol. I bought a McLeod bellhousing and kit for the LS1. If you go to S&P web site, they have a 70 Chevelle LS1/T56 swap. They had to cut a hole for the shifter ( They are using a Camaro T56) and they fliped the trans mount on the trans crossmember. My Viper trans should be very close to the stock location, but if not, McLeod make shifters that are custom offset to your needs. If your car is a manual, measure the distance from the front floor board seem to the stock shifter hole, and and I can tell you how close my trans fit. (my car is an auto)

Oil pan..... With the S&P mounts you need a modified oil pan. S&P can do this. I myself, went to Canton and had a custom made pan w/ remote oil filter. I wanted extra oil for my turbo setup, so they made me a pan that holds 6.5 qts. (it only hangs a 1/2" below the engine crossmember) With the oil filter and oil cooler I will have a 7.5-8 qt. system.

None of this is a cheap setup, but I hope some of this info helps you! Good luck with your project!! - Ron

 

Hi: If your car originally was a 4 speed and you were using the S & P style mounts and oil pan could you use the stock bellhousing and mechanical clutch linkage with a TKO 600 5 SPD trans? The 5 speed is very strong and suppose to be the same demensions as a muncie M22 4 Speed. as long as the back of the engine was in the stock location I don't know why it would not work. This would save the problem of modifing the the trans tunnel and shortening the drive shaft and relocating the shifter location. Just an idea to consider.

 

I dont think the LS1 has any holes in the block to mount a mechanical linkage set up. I dont remeber what TKO told me as far as mounting their trans into my car. I was gonna go that route (TKO) but I was liking the .50 OD of the T56 for the mpg. on the freeway. Plus D&D told me a stock Viper can hold up tp 900hp.

 

Ok I am slow getting over that fact.



If I get the BRP mount and I notch the Xmember.... I still cant run the ac ?

 

BRP Mounts + OEM A/C compressor + Notched frame = YES

 

Thanks !


I wish calculus was this easy

 

Anybody sells BRP style mounts besides BRP ?

 

Year One?

Tyler

 

Yeah I checked them,,,


Driver and passenger side motor mounts. These are small-block motor mounts that have been modified to mount an LS1 engine in 1964-1972 models. Mounting hardware is not included. Must use frame brackets # FM36.


Part # Description Color Price Add to Cart
BG990 Motor mount pair for 1964-1972 models fitted with a LS1.
N/A $207.00



I just need the plate with the holes in it...

 

I just made my BRP Style mounts from some steel, took a few hours of work using only standard hand tooks (drill, grinder and Cutting wheels). costed me about $10 for the steel and I just use Energy Suspension mounts..

 

What thinkness steel ?

What did you do for the rear transmission mount ?

 

1/4" steel. You should be able to find the template on one of the threads in the forum.

I used the Energy Suspension trans mount, cut the tab off of the cross member, flip it upside down and welded it back on (check to make sure you have the correct 2-3 deg). I used the Energy Suspension motor and trans mount Kit. 3.1133 or 3.1134, A bit cheaper.

 

Hold on... which cross member ? The OEM chevelle cross member ?

 

for question #2 - I used the OEM TH350 Trans Cross member to modify, wasn't the question what I did for the rear transmission mount ?

 

Ok well I dont have my stock Xmember..... Where can I get one ?

 

Junk yards or one of the Chevelle stores. (year one, Ground up, OPG, etc) or have someone make one for you.

BRP sells a whole kit with motor mounts and trans x-member.

 

Yes I know ($450)