Another 240sx project slowly beginning...



This last pic i'm looking for an opinion on my black housing headlights. I know my bumper is sagging, but I'd like some input on the headlights. They are stock but have been retrofitted with rx330 hid projectors, and i just painted the chrome housing black. Not sure what i think about the black yet. Opinions welcome!
The LS1/T56 combo I got out of a '00 TA without the A/C compressor (might have had the alternator off when I weighted it as well) weighed 596 lbs with all all in the tranny and engine. The KA24 5 speed combo I pulled out of my '91 S13 weighed 496 lbs with everything on it with oil in the motor and most of it drained out of the tranny. I weighed the 5 speed after I disconnected it from the KA before selling it to somebody and it weighed 95 lbs so that's where I got the 400 lbs figure from for the KA24.
FWIW: The 'How to Build High-Performance Chevy LS1/lS6 V-8's' lists the 6.0L iron block being 88 lbs more than the LS1 aluminum block. They also say a complete LS1 weighs 430 lbs but I don't think that's including the flywheel. If you take the weight I got of 596, take off the 430 and also around 130 lbs for the T56 and that leaves ~36 lbs left for the clutch and flywheel.
If you use what the book quoted for weight and you add on that big aluminum braket on the drivers side of the engine behind the alternator and if you keep the A/C my guess is you'll be around 220 lbs heavier than the KA24/5 speed and around 200 lbs heavier if you don't have the A/C on it for IIRC the A/C compressor and brakets weighed about 20 lbs.
HTH!
Last edited by Ted J; Sep 26, 2006 at 09:12 PM.
And as far as the weight goes, have you ever felt how much a stock s14 hood weighs? Haha, I fully believe that a carbon fiber hood, moving the battery to the trunk would completely offset any added weight of the iron block. This car is most definitely not going to be strictly a drag car. I want it to handle well and be a fun all around car. I plan to do some recreational drifting, drag, and the ocassional road course.
And as far as the weight goes, have you ever felt how much a stock s14 hood weighs? Haha, I fully believe that a carbon fiber hood, moving the battery to the trunk would completely offset any added weight of the iron block. This car is most definitely not going to be strictly a drag car. I want it to handle well and be a fun all around car. I plan to do some recreational drifting, drag, and the ocassional road course.
I've felt a S13 hood and weighted it in at 40 lbs. The carbon fiber hood, if you buy it for street use, shaves off 15 or so pounds for it weighs 25 lbs IIRC. Either way, like you said, moving the weight should for surley help.
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) Tuning can be done to account for the extra weight but like you commented on, you go and take a stock 240sx and shave 100 lbs off the front of it and it's going to affect things on how the car handles as well so tuning of the suspension is going to need to be done whenever changes have been made. That engine would be fun in a 3600 lb car so in a 2700 to 2900 lb car that just equals some tire smoking fun!
icantdrift has also done V8 swap into a 240sx and he lives like 2 miles away from me! He got his running and has some videos posted in this part of the forum so you'll want to go and check them out. He's got a thread about his swap and then the video thread of him difting the car at NOPI a few weeks ago.
You planning on going over to Nashville for some drift events this next year for I know there was a few there this last year and I'm assuming there may be some there this next summer.
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All of us v8-240 guys should plan to go to some drift event in the area sometime after all our cars are done, just to kinda show the "new wave" of swaps happening in 240s haha.
All of us v8-240 guys should plan to go to some drift event in the area sometime after all our cars are done, just to kinda show the "new wave" of swaps happening in 240s haha.
lol, joey redmond. king of the rental car killers
(and not even usually on purpose). i know him fairly well and i'm very good friends with his partner in crime Andy Sapp from the slide america tour they just wrapped up. my car is actually on their movie poster.plenty of local events to get out to. i'll have the car back together for Drift Fury in november down here in atlanta. would be cool to see some other v8 swapped cars out.
I like the black housing lights and with some real deal LExus HIDs in there you have to be pretty happy, it came out looking really good... HIDs provide such awesome illumination, I had some on my '94 GSR and I miss them
At first i was opposed to this idea, but the more i thought about it, it made sense. The basic plan now is just to do the ls1 stock intake and f-body accessories, gto oil pan and pickup and get it into the car. If i decide to take this route i would plan on some type of forced induction in the future, probably a used vortech kit if i can find one. I'll definitely keep updating the thread as things start happening.
Joey is a good guy, even though he threw an entire cooler of ice into our hotel room one time, then ran away. It was pretty funny now when i look at it, but at that time, it made most of us pretty mad.
Does anyone have a good source for me to get the accessories off a f-body? Anybody have any? Lemme know! Thanks for the support guys!
while you have the motor out replace your rod bolts with katechs becuase you wont be able to do it in car, everything else you can do in car fairly easily..
while you have the motor out replace your rod bolts with katechs becuase you wont be able to do it in car, everything else you can do in car fairly easily..
as for rod bolts, take off oil pan, and then remove completely one cap, press out the ferruls and put in new katech rod bolts. i dont think id want to do it one bolt at a time, id take both bolts out at the same time. keep in mind that you cannot in any circumstances mix up the caps, they are "broken rods" in that they are cast as one piece and the ends are broken off, its not a clean cut or flat edges at all. so never have more than one cap off at the same time
as for rod bolts, take off oil pan, and then remove completely one cap, press out the ferruls and put in new katech rod bolts. i dont think id want to do it one bolt at a time, id take both bolts out at the same time. keep in mind that you cannot in any circumstances mix up the caps, they are "broken rods" in that they are cast as one piece and the ends are broken off, its not a clean cut or flat edges at all. so never have more than one cap off at the same time
I think someone asked about the mounts i'm using...i'm using a skyline r33 crossmember because the mounting points for the motor mounts are further forward, leaving more room for headers etc. I'm using the universal "hot rod" mounts from car shop and i'm just cutting them to match the angle of the crossmember, and welding them to it. They will still have a bushing between the crossmember and motor, so i should be good there.






