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Let's see your electric fan setup

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Old 11-12-2006, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by shifty`
I think, for the time being, that I'm just going to run a line from the petcock fitting up to the steam vent. I am going to see how much it will be to get a 1¼" fitting with a 1/8" nipple braised into it (locally, preferrably) to mend my hoses together, and if it works out, then I'll just do that and put my petcock back in where it belongs.

Meanwhile, I don't know if you've gotten your hoses dealt with yet, but I will impart this wisdom on you:

13.25" universal "Flex host" is a great fit for the lower hose. It's a hair loose on the water pump side (nothing a clamp doesn't fix) and fits snug on the radiator side (assuming you're going stock). Advance Auto part # 1313 (LINK TO PART. I am sure NAPA carries, but they weren't open when I popped in. When putting it on, I would put the side with more flange on the lower radiator side first with the radiator out, then clamp it down, then fit it to the water pump.

For the upper hose, I somewhat happy with it, got an '02 Silverado upper hose - if you cut it in two pieces (and shorten it in the middle), you can make it work fairly well It's a bit of a stretch to get it on the upper radiator outlet, but ... a little lube to ease it in on there and you're in business.
yes i was hoping you'ld post what you were using, so it'll aid me!! thanks do you have pics of the upper hose, im useing a diffrent water pump outlet location then you (truck ones go up , yours go forward), so i wanna see if thats what i'll need to do
Old 11-12-2006, 03:06 PM
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hold on, I'll go take pics for you....
Old 11-12-2006, 03:18 PM
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Ok, here you go. I couldn't find a universal/flex hose that was ~30-36" long (largest anyone makes is a 19", and the universal hoses at Summit are $100!)

Not sure what other option I had than taking a stock '02 truck one and hacking it. If you had two stock ones, I bet you could make a freaking sweet hose.

Pics:

http://www.satellitehead.com/uploads/radhose(1).jpg
http://www.satellitehead.com/uploads/radhose(2).jpg
http://www.satellitehead.com/uploads/radhose(3).jpg

Notice I put the "P" shaped end on the water pump side (when you see the stock hose, you'll understand. I think if you got two hoses and just made it with a P-shape on both ends, you could make something nicer. Seeing as how it needs a tap for the steam vent and needed to be cut anyway, this gave me the freedom to just cut wherever with no worries.

FYI, I cut it near the middle. Notice the stretch required on the radiator side of things Took some effort, and I hope it doesn't weaken the hose any. The truck radiator and the Ls1 water pump are approx ¼" diff'ce in diameter.

Overall, I think this might work, but we'll see if I stick with it. There will be little interference with the intake, but I realize now that I'm definitely going to need an '04 GTO intake elbow, and I would suggest the same to anyone else doing the same swap in our trucks. The elbow at intakehoses.com just won't clear (off by ~¾") the fans and radiator unless you were using a push-fan on the front side. You could alternately use the really nice looking air filter/intake +MAF setup that S&P sells, which I would do, but it's too rich for my blood.

Bonus benefit to using the '04 GTO setup is it is provisioned for the air temp sensor already, so no drilling rubber is required.

EDIT: Oops, here is a link to the hose I used: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...tnumber=E71989

The end labelled "B" is the side I'm referring to as being P-shaped. I cut the "A"-side off almost completely, just leaving 2" of elbow after it curves hard to the right after the vertical run. I then cut it at the veritcal run and trimmed it from there.

PS - I don't know what the diamter of this hose is - appears to be about 1½" and the inlet on the radiator appears to be about 1¾". I couldn't find a universale hose system that had mismatched ends like that either.

PSS - dont' forget when you fill up with fluid, you gotta start by filling up this upper hose first (into the engine), then top off the radiator. This will prevent overheats because the thermostat only opens to let in water on the bottom hose when it is at operating temp

Last edited by shifty`; 11-12-2006 at 03:25 PM.
Old 11-13-2006, 09:17 AM
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I can't believe that you can't just go to a local part store and get a couple of hoses with the 90 degrees bends. It will definitely look a lot nicer with just 2 90 degree bends and a straight hard pipe in between. Here is my set up. GL

Vinh
PS. my pipe is a stainless steel pipe that I got from a place sells hand rails for public bathrooms. This pipe is thick enough for you to thread it and put a fitting for the steam line. The only draw back is you have to find a 90 degree elbow at the water pump end with 1 1/4" inlet to 1 1/2" outlet. I found that at Pepboys. The parts guy just let me search the whole room for what I need. Goodluck
Old 11-13-2006, 11:16 AM
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For searching for hoses, the hose manufacturers have a book for hoses and belts that shows pictures of all the hoses. They are organized by inlet and outlet size, then by over all length and they have pictures of the hoses so you can see their shapes. For my hoses I bent a piece of coat hanger into the shape I needed (welding rod would work too) and measured the connections and total length. With that information I was able to search through the book at the parts store and find likely candidates. This is much easier than trying to search through all the oses they have in stock. It helps to have a parts store with a large inventory. I found two hoses that fit, one perfectly and one that I trimmed a few inches off of one end. I also recorded the part numbers and filed them away for future use should I ever need to replace a hose.

Hope that helps

Pat
Old 11-13-2006, 12:54 PM
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Heres my setup. Becool radiator with Spal dual 13" fans. Works great:
Old 11-13-2006, 09:56 PM
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Default OEM fan performance

just a quick FYI to all here. I do cooling system stuff for an OEM on vehicles of 300-500 hp. In general, you need 1000CFM per 100 hp to meet full requierments. Basically the hardest tests are on a road course glued to someone's **** for a tank of gas so there is no airflow and top speed around an 5 mile oval for a tank of gas. The top speed one isn't really relevant, but if you are going to track it, those numbers will keep you from having any problems. For the normal 20 min sessions most track days give you, 800 CFM per 100 hp is probably good. If all you are doing is street and drag strip, 600.
Old 11-13-2006, 11:27 PM
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I guess I'll be fine then, I'm looking at 2200-2400cfm per fan and not racing on an oval track



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