It's started
1963 Chevy truck build up (with pics) Sorry for the crap picture (cell phone) but I started working on the truck swap last night. This is what we got done yesterday. Motor mounts are half built and tranny cross member is in the correct spot.
Picked the shortblock pieces up from the machine shop today and got the rods, pistons together (spiral locks were fun at first), rings are on, and crank is in. I'll get the pistons dropped in this weekend and everything torqued down. Heads will get put together next week and I'll probably have a completely assembled motor (minus oil pan).
Swap is in a 62 Chevy PU..
Picked the shortblock pieces up from the machine shop today and got the rods, pistons together (spiral locks were fun at first), rings are on, and crank is in. I'll get the pistons dropped in this weekend and everything torqued down. Heads will get put together next week and I'll probably have a completely assembled motor (minus oil pan).
Swap is in a 62 Chevy PU..
Last edited by LIL SS; Nov 30, 2006 at 11:51 AM.
Using a 4L80E.. This is an early 90's model that came off a SBC. I don't see why you couldn't get a M20/21/22 to bolt up. You may just have to figure out the distances on the clutch / flywheel. all but one bellhousing bolt line up.
BTW, for those of you that aren't going to use headers, find a set of C5 Z06 manifolds. They fit in almost perfect. I am making my own motor mounts so it sits a little lower but the flanges clear. I need to grind just a little off the bottom of the frame. They fit, but I'm concerned they might touch if the motor torques.
BTW, for those of you that aren't going to use headers, find a set of C5 Z06 manifolds. They fit in almost perfect. I am making my own motor mounts so it sits a little lower but the flanges clear. I need to grind just a little off the bottom of the frame. They fit, but I'm concerned they might touch if the motor torques.
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: South of Boston, Mass.
Originally Posted by AGAMBILL
What trans. are you planning to use. Have you ever heard of anybody using the old school Muncies on a LS1?
You need a spacer for the flywheel and an extended pilot bushing - both available from GM. The reason for this is that the LS1 flywheel is ~.4" closer to the block so the Muncie input shaft won't reach. It looked to me like the stock LS1 starter wouldn't line up if the flywheel is moved. There might be a longer starter nose available or something like that but I didn't get that far in my research.
Rick B.
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Fuel cell bracket is not finished. I am going to reduce the amount of angle it has. The pan will have a fold down license plate.
As you can see the headers were a tight fit on the frame and th knuckle on the control arm. I'm going to try and get the one tube a little father away from the knuckle.
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