Chevelle T56 clutch bleeding
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Sweden
Chevelle T56 clutch bleeding I'm just welding up the raised trans tunnel after the T56 install on my '71 Chevelle. The clutch bleeder is very tight, how have you Chevelle guys solved this?
I'm thinking about cutting an access hole to bleed from inside the car and to put a rubber plug in it. Any other ideas?
Thanks,
I'm thinking about cutting an access hole to bleed from inside the car and to put a rubber plug in it. Any other ideas?
Thanks,
TECH Resident
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 841
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore, MD.
Don't have a Chevelle, but a rubber plug sounds like a reasonable idea to me.....
Here'd be my only concern: Is there carpet over the area that the plug would go in? What would you do about that if there is? I wouldn't want to have to pull the carpet to bleed the clutch (if it were mine)....
I assume that bleeding the clutch should be something you only do once, but you know what assuming does.
'JustDreamin'
Here'd be my only concern: Is there carpet over the area that the plug would go in? What would you do about that if there is? I wouldn't want to have to pull the carpet to bleed the clutch (if it were mine)....
I assume that bleeding the clutch should be something you only do once, but you know what assuming does.
'JustDreamin'
I tried to make sure I made enough room there when moving up the trans tunnel. If you haven't finished welding yet I would mark the area, then pull the trans. Than you can massage this area for more space. I guess you could do this after too. A "BFH" always seems to work for me. I think your best bet is making the space now and not worry about a hole.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Sweden
Stealth,
So you made a dent in the trans tunnel towards the driver's foot then? It's a bit hard to see on the pictures in your engine swap thread.
By the way. I made my own engine mounts on the frame, using the original '00 Camaro rubber mounts. At first I wanted to place the engine as low as possible, maybe 1/2" over the crossmember. With that height the steering centerlink and inner tie rods contacted the oil pan when steering full lock. I had a look on your pictures and my initial position looks very much like yours, but that clearly didn't work for me. Did you verify steering to oil pan clearance when steering lock-to-lock?
So you made a dent in the trans tunnel towards the driver's foot then? It's a bit hard to see on the pictures in your engine swap thread.
By the way. I made my own engine mounts on the frame, using the original '00 Camaro rubber mounts. At first I wanted to place the engine as low as possible, maybe 1/2" over the crossmember. With that height the steering centerlink and inner tie rods contacted the oil pan when steering full lock. I had a look on your pictures and my initial position looks very much like yours, but that clearly didn't work for me. Did you verify steering to oil pan clearance when steering lock-to-lock?
Yes, I stretched it out towards the gas pedal when welding it back together. I checked the steering and it didn't look like it was going to be a problem where I have the motor now.
How far is the passener side head from the firewall on yours? I have about 1/2".
How far is the passener side head from the firewall on yours? I have about 1/2".
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