Has anyone else ran the R33 GTS crossmember besides Slo_240sx. I am considering using it for my swap.

 

i would but they arnt exactly the easiest thing to find locally. shipping on one is about as much as the damn thing is worth. all i can say is get them while they are still cheap and plentiful (online)

 

Yeah, mine's a S13 Coupe but it's far from completed. I keep changing my mind on what I want to do with the fuel system. I'm thinking of putting a regulator for the fuel system up under the hood now in case I want to run a little FI into the LS1 later!

 

hinson..boop

theres a good amount running around, wait till january 1ish for a site to help with tech and stuff on bastardizing lightweight rwd platforms of all ages / colors.

 

hinson? weak weak, come on bubba.
go back to texas with your lame tampa lingo.
<3 jon bodon, just using ls1300zx's user name ;]
jk

but hey you pissed i never let you drift the lil red ae86??

 

Right now I am in the middle of getting a price on a GTS crossmember. If it is a good price I will snag it up and let you guys know if they have anymore.

 

is the only advantage of an r33 xmember that it sits lower?

 

Gathering parts right now for it. Have the car just need to source some more parts.

 

Get a rb20det skyline gt-s crossmember . its the best and easyist way to mount the ls1. i had a rb20det , rb25det ,and stock crossmembers in front of me when i did the swap. rb20 is the best by far .

pros to using the rb20det crossmember

the motor mount "pods" sit way more foward compared to the stock crossmember . making the mounts easy and alot more header clearance . still tight around the steering shaft tho.

the "pods" have the the same angle were it makes it simple to make a bracket for the motor to bolt to. the rb25det has the pods that mount the motor mount brackets straigh up and down not at an angle . so making brackets to mount the engine to will require more work.

bolts right into the stock 240sx chassis

here is a pic of my mounts . will get a better one later . but its just a 2.5x2.5 1/8th thick tubing, welded to the crossmember pods . a hole was drilled threw the middle to mount the chevy old 3bolt style mount to. you do have to notch the crossmember like you would a stock crossmember to clear the gto oil pan.



order these motor mount adapters they are nice CNC aluminum pices that allow you to bolt sbc mounts to .
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp...qx/Product.htm

next get motor mounts like these . and assemble it like in the pic .
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp...qx/Product.htm

the tranny mount was pritty straight foward aswell . i used the stock camaro t56 rubber mount and made a crossmember to hold it all in place . bolts to the stock tranny mount location .

 

Ya hopefully I can get the GTS crossmember for a reasonable price. Does anyone have weight distribution numbers using the stock crossmember and then the GTS. Just curious how much more the GTS crossmember throws it off sense it mounts farther forward.

 

my guess would be none. mount points in the right spot vs the stock. i just took the stock one and made the mounts stick out more (like the skyline). unless you wanna go like ted which is nice and put the motor all the way bad. but looks like a ton more work. the farther back you go the more beating you got to do. and it aint as eazy as it sounds beating on that tranny tunnel. there is a pittsburgh (spell check) lap about 12" back and thing is tough. we had to put heat on it. there is only about 2inch you can play with in the motor position from front to back. you can only go back so far (unless you wanna remake a firewall) and you can only go farward so far. to far farward and you cant get a intake on the motor. mine is as far farward as i could get and still have room for a 3.5 intake and its only about 2 inch from the firewall (enough to barely get your hand in to touch the bellhouse). at most my idea position would only be maybe a 1/2 inch more to the back. but i had to position the motor to the hinson headers and that was as far back as i could go. i had to put a little notch in my steering shaft u-joint to get it back as far as i did. pic of that somewhere on here. here it is of the notch and the mounts. best pic i got. i got lazy after i got done and about half way into the car.

 

Weight Dist is the same if not better. remember that using the stocker makes the engine hang off the front while the farther forward mounts makes the weight transfer rearward. Here are a couple of my shots using the R33 GTS Xmember.





Those are the first build pics. The ECU is now under the dash.

 

I wouldnt mind cutting up my firewall and tranny tunnel. Sense I have no dash or any interior I have pretty easy access. I would love to keep a close to 50/50 weight distribution.

 

Slo_ your car looks great, impressive work.

 

Tell me about it, ended up cutting the tranny tunnel open and then adding some metal back in and spot welding it all around to patch it back up again to make room for the T56 with where got the motor and tranny located at. In the end though I would probably do it again but like you said, it's a ton more work.

 

So has anybody gotten there 240/LS1 on wheel scales after a completed swap?

 

It doesn't matter where the motor mounts are located at when it comes to the weight dist. of the car. What matters is where the COG of the motor and transmission are in relation to that of the chassis for that is what is going to affect the weight dist. of the car.

You could think of it this way. Lets say you mounted the engine and trans like some race cars do with the transmission mounting bolts to the back of the engine are used for the motor mounts. If you put a 80 lbs pully on the front of the engine it's going to affect the weight on the front tires the same as if you had mounted the engine on the front with a plate.

 

Not yet, I have the ablity to weigh all 4 corners and will post up the info when I get the car done.

The LS1/T56 combo weighs about 100 lbs more than the KA24/5sp combo but the T56 does weigh a pretty good amount more than the 5 spd so I'm hoping that helps bring some of the weight back towards the center of the car.

 

will your scales work on the whole car in one piece? we can put mine on them to get a real idea

 

I understand what you mean, but I was more talking about getting the motor mounted furtur back in the engine bay. Not actually having the motor mounts located furthur back on the engine.