burns_auto

need some help in a bad way, i have searched and can't find any info..

need to know what to do with the oil pan.. i have a truck pan does it need to be shortend and notched for the cross members..

any idea would help..

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

Your best bet would be to ditch the truck pan in lieu of either a f-body pan (will fit without mods with the right engine mounts. Or the canton pan or even better yet the soon to come out milodon pan.

burns_auto

what mounts did you use.. what pan, if f body how far does the motor sit away from the fire wall..

thanks

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

I am actually in the process of doing the swap myself. I plan on using the BRP style mounts which set the motor back more than some of the others. With these it should sit pretty close to the firewall but allow for me to not cut the oil pan. I will make my own brp style mounts but you can also purchase them.

burns_auto

are you going to hide the coil pack, if so where and do you have a link to the brp mounts..if you have any picks saved could you post some links.
thanks
bjb

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

I will leave the coils on for now but I believe ATS makes some relocation brackets. I don't have any picks and I dunno the website for brp but you should be able to find them on google and they are also sponsors on the right>.

troyboy468

i used the truck pan on mine,notched the frame a little and made my own mounts. i dont think you would have any problems unless the car is really low. mine has plenty of clearance.

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

Clean install and a nice car to boot! It looks like you used the Hooker headers how did you like the fit? Interesting how you went with the old style alternator as well. You are the first I have heard of making the truck pan work nicely done. Another option I failed to mention earlier is the CTS-V pan which has a bit more clearance than the F-body pan but does hang below the cross member typically which could be a concern in a lowered application.

67Mal

The Hot Rod Project Build Chevelle article has some very good reference pictures.
http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/1.../photo_04.html

burns_auto

great looking car...

thanks for the picks, how far does the pan come below the front cross member?

also do you have any picks from the side of the motor showing the distance between the firewall, and the radiator.. a measurement would be awesome.. what accessories bracket did you use..

thanks
bjb

burns_auto

thanks for the link...

bjb

troyboy468

they are actually f body pace setters. took some work to make the drivers side fit,pass side wasnt bad. ill have to measure the pan for you.

burns_auto

did you make your alt bracket, it looks great.. i noticed you ps pump was also mounted different.. what did you do there..
thats a bad ride. i acutally have about 4 66ss in different stages right now.. there my favorite..
thanks

idf1966

Another possibility for an after market pan is the one by Autokraft. I have used this one and it fits in my '66 Chevelle frame nice without hanging below the crossmember. The only issue I have found is that the steering is not allowed to go 100% lock to lock, however I don't know if this may be a problem with any of the LS pans, due to the deep skirt design of the engine. The pan is sheet metal and comes with a billet filter mounting block so the filter remains in the stock location.

Just a thought.

troyboy468

power steering is stock location, we made the alternator brkt and moved the tensioner over under power steering pump. i measured the pan,it hangs 1 3/8" below the crossmember.

67Mal

Peat and Troy it's good to see other 66-67 chevelles here.

Troy, great looking swap! Wish my 67 was that far along.
Would you mind telling about your radiator and A/C condensor?
Thanks

bjb, I am attempting to follow the Project Build 67 as close as I can
with my swap. I am using a 2003 5.3,and camaro pan.
Here is link to my showroom at Chevelles.com with a few pics of my slow progress. I added some pics of the pan to frame clearance for you, hope they help.

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/sh...0/ppuser/13247

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

67Mal, looks like an extemely clean build you have going there. What mounts are you going with I noticed you had to modify the oil pan quite a bit and that you engine appears to be sitting down fairly low. Good luck with the build@

67Mal

Thanks Pete,
I fabricated (blacksmithed) my own mounts from looking at the pics of
the Power Build 67. Although I think I probably mounted farther back
to keep from having to extend the oil pick up tube.

I measured/marked the location of the original engine/trans and put
the 5.3 back as close as I could to where the old engine was.

I made a mistake cutting the front drop off to the sump of the pan,
it should have been angled toward the front at the top of the drop off
to give more clearance for the pick up tube But when I realized that I didn't want to start over, was able to make it work.

The buttom of the sump was replaced/repaired because the pan was busted in the bottom, a freebie I picked up at a salvage yard.

Let me know if I can help,
Malcolm

burns_auto

thanks guys for all the help.. we bought a 6.0 truck motor and i ported the heads and we are puting a turbo with a blow thru set up on it.. the pan issue still has me stumped.. my little brother is on a budget but i really like the autokraft pan option. the salvage yard broke the pan at the very bottom so either we fix it and shorten it and knotch it or buy another one.. i will try to get some picks of the car and progress as we go along.. i want the motor far enought forward so i can mount the coils to the back of the head.. any info right now is alot of help thanks for all the picks and measurments...

thsnks
bjb

btw, we are going to try to do all of this for $2500-$2750
wish us luck...

burns_auto

67mal where did you get those manifolds..
they look so clean ..
bjb