LS1 swapping into G-body
03-01-2007, 09:46 AM
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LS1 swapping into G-body Hello All, New to this forum and hope to learn a lot. I have a 1980 el camino, recently my mom has been getting tired of my creditcard bill from all the gas it uses. She suggested i put an engine that gets better millage in, naturally i agree completly, lol. So what do i look for in an LS1? I see them on ebay as pulled engines complete with transmission. Are those to be trusted? Im gonna research the local yards first.
In any case I would just like a quick run down of the process and any suggestions. My uncle and I would be doing the work ourselves, He has been working with cars for almost 30 years and he is able to fabricate, although i admit most of his work is done on the body of cars. How long does a swap normally take you guys? Thanks for any input at all, i really want to treat my baby right.
In any case I would just like a quick run down of the process and any suggestions. My uncle and I would be doing the work ourselves, He has been working with cars for almost 30 years and he is able to fabricate, although i admit most of his work is done on the body of cars. How long does a swap normally take you guys? Thanks for any input at all, i really want to treat my baby right.
03-01-2007, 10:32 AM
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Take a look here for your swap questions http://www.montecarloss.com/ls1montecarloss/ Ioffer the motor mounts and oil pan mods for a direct bolt-in. PM me for details if you're interested.
03-01-2007, 11:33 AM
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I'm working on the same swap right now but in my 87 Monte SS. I'm going to be ordering some motor mounts from John B pretty soon, after I get my engine bay all cleaned up and painted.
Id say the ones you find on ebay should be alright. There is a seller with the name Fparts who has good feedback and sells a lot of LS1s.
Personally I'm probably going to build mine starting with a 6.0L Iron block and gather parts and put everything together myself. This will *probably* turn out to be more expensive than just buying the stock LS1 swap but I'll end up with a faster car in the end.
Id say the ones you find on ebay should be alright. There is a seller with the name Fparts who has good feedback and sells a lot of LS1s.
Personally I'm probably going to build mine starting with a 6.0L Iron block and gather parts and put everything together myself. This will *probably* turn out to be more expensive than just buying the stock LS1 swap but I'll end up with a faster car in the end.
03-01-2007, 11:47 AM
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Yes I recognize Fparts as a seller. The goal of the swap is to have a peppy car with much improved driveability. Should i get an auto or go for the T-56? I assume the T-56 is a lot more work to get in an cleaned up.
03-01-2007, 12:12 PM
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Yes, the T56 will be a little more work, it's probably going to be worth it for you if you like driving stick. If not...stick with the auto. I really can't decide which I want yet. It's all personal preference on that one.
03-01-2007, 02:23 PM
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i bought two engines from spacecoast motorworks, and i have orders for atleast one more pending.. he is a member here too btw.. but he sells LS1's on ebay, and i vouch for him...
i just got my engine for my 80 bu today.. and the wireing seems daunting.. but i guess ill have to figure it out..
i just got my engine for my 80 bu today.. and the wireing seems daunting.. but i guess ill have to figure it out..
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03-01-2007, 11:04 PM
#8
Cool another LSx G-Body
John`s site is one that you want to read, it is the bible of swapping a LSx into a a/g-body and has a lot of info that is valuable no matter what you are putting the engine into. You may also want to read this thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ghlight=camino it has some info specific to El Caminos. If you are looking for wiring info check out the FAQ sticky. There are also a bunch of pictures of my swap on my f-quick account(link in my sig).
Time for the swap is something that varies greatly with how motivated and prepared you are. I did my swap in 2 weeks (well 3 weeks, but I went on vacation the middle week and did nothing to the car), by the end of the second week the car was running but not finnished. I didn`t have a speedo, tach, temp gauge, gearshift indicator, the intake consisted of flexible dryer duct.....etc but the car was again driveable. I had a lot of motivation though since it is my only car and school started the week after I had the car running. There were also a lot of 16-18 hour days in those 2 weeks. I would say that a month would be a reasonable goal, but there are people who have spent 6+ months before they had a running car. It all depends on how much research you do to prepare, and how often you are going to work on it. I was working on my swap every day for those 2 weeks.
John`s site is one that you want to read, it is the bible of swapping a LSx into a a/g-body and has a lot of info that is valuable no matter what you are putting the engine into. You may also want to read this thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ghlight=camino it has some info specific to El Caminos. If you are looking for wiring info check out the FAQ sticky. There are also a bunch of pictures of my swap on my f-quick account(link in my sig).
Time for the swap is something that varies greatly with how motivated and prepared you are. I did my swap in 2 weeks (well 3 weeks, but I went on vacation the middle week and did nothing to the car), by the end of the second week the car was running but not finnished. I didn`t have a speedo, tach, temp gauge, gearshift indicator, the intake consisted of flexible dryer duct.....etc but the car was again driveable. I had a lot of motivation though since it is my only car and school started the week after I had the car running. There were also a lot of 16-18 hour days in those 2 weeks. I would say that a month would be a reasonable goal, but there are people who have spent 6+ months before they had a running car. It all depends on how much research you do to prepare, and how often you are going to work on it. I was working on my swap every day for those 2 weeks.
03-07-2007, 09:08 PM
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Im starting to plan the swap out, forming a budget now. I was wondering what you guys do about the rearend and driveshaft. Is my rearend going to be good enough? i dont know what gearing it is but i think its 2.73 and posi. I'm looking for 350-400 horsepower at the wheels. and a good strong top end (enough to make use of z-rated tires anyway)
As far as the engine goes im hoping to do away with the cats. i want to know what im doing to the engine while its out of the car. i think i need about 400 flywheel horsepower to get as much power to wheels as i want, right? the LS1 can do this with moderate bolt on's right? the selling point for my financing is better gas mileage (parents).
I'm making a power point, and trying to explain a budget to them. I'm new to the LS1, and what it can do. Thanks for any help guys.
As far as the engine goes im hoping to do away with the cats. i want to know what im doing to the engine while its out of the car. i think i need about 400 flywheel horsepower to get as much power to wheels as i want, right? the LS1 can do this with moderate bolt on's right? the selling point for my financing is better gas mileage (parents).
I'm making a power point, and trying to explain a budget to them. I'm new to the LS1, and what it can do. Thanks for any help guys.
03-07-2007, 09:56 PM
#10
I had my stock driveshaft shortened, but if you plan on top end high speed runs you should probably have a new custom aluminum driveshaft made. The EC driveshafts are very long so they have a low critical speed. I have vibrations when I get to 80+ for sustained periods of time, but I am running 3.73`s and 25.8" tires. Google Driveshaft critical speed and you will see what I am talking about 
.
As for the rear you can run the stock rear if its in good shape. The 8.5" grand national rear ends are a bolt in (the driveshaft is 1" shorter than if it was a 7.5" rear, but everything else bolts up) and they are a very strong rear end, but they are also costly (average $500-800). I know there are at least a few EC`s with LSx engines and the factory 7.5" rears, it all depends how much you beat on it. EC` are traction limited with street tires, on dry pavement I start spinning the tires at ~1/4 throttle so that limits the stress on the rear end. If you run street tires you probably won`t have any problems, but if you put slicks on and start launching the car you may break the rear end.
. As for the rear you can run the stock rear if its in good shape. The 8.5" grand national rear ends are a bolt in (the driveshaft is 1" shorter than if it was a 7.5" rear, but everything else bolts up) and they are a very strong rear end, but they are also costly (average $500-800). I know there are at least a few EC`s with LSx engines and the factory 7.5" rears, it all depends how much you beat on it. EC` are traction limited with street tires, on dry pavement I start spinning the tires at ~1/4 throttle so that limits the stress on the rear end. If you run street tires you probably won`t have any problems, but if you put slicks on and start launching the car you may break the rear end.
