QuickZ28

Alright heres the story...I have a lq4 motor, swaping into 3rd gen.

I know i have to buy the camaro oil pan but how hard is it to notch the original truck pan??

Any1 whos done it please step inside and post up!! Pics any1??

And far as the pickup tube goes.....how much shorter is the Camaro one too the truck one?

Im just trying to think of ways to get around that cheaper, and this seems the best way...but i just dont want to go cutting on a good pan w/o getting some info.....


Thanks

'JustDreamin'

I haven't done it, but have looked into it extensively. For my application ('99 Bravada), the amount of work required to re-work the truck pan would have exceeded what it took to just build a new pan, so I built a new steel pan.

Here's the problems you'll encounter:
1.) Its an aluminum pan. Means you need special skill & equipment. If you have that, then go for it. If not, you're likely to be paying for those services (unless you've got a buddy who owes you a couple favors).

2.) The pan is cast aluminum, which has some porosity to it. Oil soaks into the aluminum (believe it or not) and will cause all kinds of fun when attempting to weld (inclusions, weld porosity, etc). So, you've either got to get it really clean (folks are reporting that a good method is to clean it with solvent first, then run it through the dishwasher, just don't tell the wife) or start with a new pan (not exactly the cheap solution).

3.) Lastly, alum likes to move around with heat / welding, so you've got to address warpage. Plan on mounting it to an engine block or similar setup while welding. Welder will need to be careful to put in enough heat to weld but not too much or you'll get more distortion. And, you may still need to flycut the flange afterwards.

All that PITA stuff adds up to it being generally much easier to procure used f-body stuff (if that fits your application) and sell the truck stuff.

Also note, the pan, pump pickup, windage tray, dipstick, & dipstick tube are all "matched sets", meaning truck stuff won't (without modification) work with f-body stuff or vette stuff and vice versa.

'JustDreamin'

bczee

iTrader: (12)

+1 on 'JustDreamin'

I have already ruined one F-Body Aluminum pan, Unable to get it welded up due to the bad aluminum casting and it's porosity. The oil it had socked up. It kept on popping and burning the alumnum black. May get it right one of these day.

Steve VanS

iTrader: (1)

Hi QuickZ28:

I notched a 2004 GTO-type oil pan for our swap of an LS1 into a BMW E30. I used 5052 aluminum plate, and had an experienced aluminum welder do the hot stuff. He preheated the cut pan and then carefully welded-in the patch with 5356 3/32"dia aluminum TIG rod. We had some distortion in the pan, about .08" at each end. I'm going to try to flatten the pan out a little with an arbor press before we install it on the block.

We used 5mm thick aluminum plate for the patch, and had it bent to match the cutout as closely as possible. The GTO pan is probably A356 or similiar alloy, and is about 4mm thick. If we do another pan, I would use 3mm thick patch plate so that flattening the pan would be easier.

5052 plate is available in small sizes form www.misumiusa.com We used 250mm x 125mm, and designed our cut-out so that we would have to trim only one edge.