engine temps (Ls1 Corvair)
07-12-2007, 09:12 AM
#1
engine temps (Ls1 Corvair) My dad and I just finished Building this
66 Vair , Porsche 930 tranny , 04 vette motor , Howell harness, No PS , AC , JBA headers 160 deg Thermo... Other than that a stock Motor .
the temp out of the rad is @ 190. the rad i mounted up front (4 core custom rad , not alum thou) we have a surge tank in the back, The Car will idle forever @ 195 on a hot day. We are running 50/50 + WW.
my dad is somewhat freaking out because the temp coming out of the rad is 190. We don't have a coolant sensor in the block because we can't find a fitting to work with the Old style westach gauges.
We will be putting a better Puller Fan behind the rad (right now it's just 2 JY units , with an override wired into the relay so we can flip them on at anytime.The local rad guy says it's too hot , I think he has spent too much time working on 350's and thinks the Ls1 is the same.
Any thoughts? what should the motor run at from the factory? I have a northstar V8 powered fiero and nearly **** when I found out that the factory fans for that don't turn on until 210..
the car runs fine , Pulls hard as hell , but hot starts are somewhat harder (not a lot) than cool starts.
Any Suggestions?
thanks!
JM
66 Vair , Porsche 930 tranny , 04 vette motor , Howell harness, No PS , AC , JBA headers 160 deg Thermo... Other than that a stock Motor .
the temp out of the rad is @ 190. the rad i mounted up front (4 core custom rad , not alum thou) we have a surge tank in the back, The Car will idle forever @ 195 on a hot day. We are running 50/50 + WW.
my dad is somewhat freaking out because the temp coming out of the rad is 190. We don't have a coolant sensor in the block because we can't find a fitting to work with the Old style westach gauges.
We will be putting a better Puller Fan behind the rad (right now it's just 2 JY units , with an override wired into the relay so we can flip them on at anytime.The local rad guy says it's too hot , I think he has spent too much time working on 350's and thinks the Ls1 is the same.
Any thoughts? what should the motor run at from the factory? I have a northstar V8 powered fiero and nearly **** when I found out that the factory fans for that don't turn on until 210..
the car runs fine , Pulls hard as hell , but hot starts are somewhat harder (not a lot) than cool starts.
Any Suggestions?
thanks!
JM
07-12-2007, 12:43 PM
#3
TECH Resident
I got stuck in L.A. traffic yesterday with my LS1 hot rod.....it always runs between 195-210 degrees, my PCM controls the fan. I never have a problem and it runs like a champ.
07-12-2007, 02:13 PM
#4
Normal LS1 (F-Body) PCM will turn the fans on at 212 degrees. I run a standalone SPAL controller that I can set my Fans to come on at 200 and when the AC comes on.
Any late model car system is designed to run close to the 200 Degree range for emission reason. And should not be a problem.
If you have your PCM is tuned with Different Fuel Tables and other Mod then it would be a good idea to tune for a lower temp and have the fans come on sooner. Has that been done ?
BTW, love the Corvair, especially with V8 and your dad's is great looking, Killer sleeper ! How about some more details on it. I always wanted to do a V8 Corvair... !
Any late model car system is designed to run close to the 200 Degree range for emission reason. And should not be a problem.
If you have your PCM is tuned with Different Fuel Tables and other Mod then it would be a good idea to tune for a lower temp and have the fans come on sooner. Has that been done ?
BTW, love the Corvair, especially with V8 and your dad's is great looking, Killer sleeper ! How about some more details on it. I always wanted to do a V8 Corvair... !
07-12-2007, 03:47 PM
#6
How about venting of the engine bay.. more vents, scoops, or fans to assist in venting the engine bay and assist in keeping the engine cooler ?
How about as a test. leave the hood (?) up a inch (block and straped) or removing the hood and drive around to see if it stays at a better temp ?
How about as a test. leave the hood (?) up a inch (block and straped) or removing the hood and drive around to see if it stays at a better temp ?
07-12-2007, 04:35 PM
#7
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Uh, guys... he said thas the temp EXITING the radiator. Thats hot. I would also be uncomfortable with the temps that high, they should be that going INTO the radiator. You need to get a temp sensor in that thing to see what the water temp is in the engine. How are you measuring the temperature leaving the radiator?
And, I believe the stock fans dont kick on till ~226*.
And, I believe the stock fans dont kick on till ~226*.
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07-12-2007, 09:05 PM
#8
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V8-Conversion similarities I loved seeing the photos of your car: it takes me back 37 years to when my roommate built and mid-engine '66 Corvair with fully built 327 Chev. He would let me drive it with him at Riverside Raceway, CA and it is still the fastest I have gone on track: 142 MPH on the short-course.
My current toy is and '73 914 w/ 383 for street and track days at Willow Springs Raceway, CA. Like you, starting when cold was not problem, but when hot, the starter did not want to turn. If this is your problem, I wrapped my starter with some foil-covered insulation material (Summit, Jegs, et.al) and the problem was greatly improved.
BTW: Very smart to go to the 930 trans (as in my car), from the 327 Corvair
we learned that while the gear set was right out of a Muncie 4-Spd, but the differential was the weak-link. My friend had to run a tall R&P ratio to ensure
the ring gear teeth were big enough to not shear off (he did that with his first diff).
My question: can you post photos of how you have redesigned the rear suspension? Since the Corvair (and Corvette) us the 1/2 shaft as a suspension arm, how did you replace the upper control arm and attach it to the chassis....definitely a bit of serious engineering.
Another good reason to create a real upper suspension arm: with the 327-Corvair, we learned that all cornering loads ended up butting against a steel block in the diff. After 4 week-ends at riverside, there was 1/8 slop at each rear wheel allowing them to travel in and out.
Best of luck with your great toy!
Terry
My current toy is and '73 914 w/ 383 for street and track days at Willow Springs Raceway, CA. Like you, starting when cold was not problem, but when hot, the starter did not want to turn. If this is your problem, I wrapped my starter with some foil-covered insulation material (Summit, Jegs, et.al) and the problem was greatly improved.
BTW: Very smart to go to the 930 trans (as in my car), from the 327 Corvair
we learned that while the gear set was right out of a Muncie 4-Spd, but the differential was the weak-link. My friend had to run a tall R&P ratio to ensure
the ring gear teeth were big enough to not shear off (he did that with his first diff).
My question: can you post photos of how you have redesigned the rear suspension? Since the Corvair (and Corvette) us the 1/2 shaft as a suspension arm, how did you replace the upper control arm and attach it to the chassis....definitely a bit of serious engineering.
Another good reason to create a real upper suspension arm: with the 327-Corvair, we learned that all cornering loads ended up butting against a steel block in the diff. After 4 week-ends at riverside, there was 1/8 slop at each rear wheel allowing them to travel in and out.
Best of luck with your great toy!
Terry
07-13-2007, 10:07 AM
#9
I will get more pics this weekend. Lots of custom made parts in the suspension.
I think my flexible hoses may be causing some flow issues.
I ill take some pics that help to explain things a little more this weekend. I am gonna hook up a water temp gauge this weekend @ the block.
OldSchoolFormula
that is an Impressive 1/4 mile time for a stock setup! I can't wait til we take out car to teh strip. we ran it breifly against our 2006 Carrera S and it tromped it to 100mph.. it was like tied porsche was tied to a tree!
next up is brakes...
As for reading the temp 2 the rad , it's a westach aftermarket gauge and a sensor.
thanks guys.
JM
I think my flexible hoses may be causing some flow issues.
I ill take some pics that help to explain things a little more this weekend. I am gonna hook up a water temp gauge this weekend @ the block.
OldSchoolFormula
that is an Impressive 1/4 mile time for a stock setup! I can't wait til we take out car to teh strip. we ran it breifly against our 2006 Carrera S and it tromped it to 100mph.. it was like tied porsche was tied to a tree!
next up is brakes...
As for reading the temp 2 the rad , it's a westach aftermarket gauge and a sensor.
thanks guys.
JM
08-10-2007, 08:20 AM
#10
Looks really good! Coolest swap I've seen in a while... I have two Corvairs & was considering grafting a C5 transaxle into the coupe as a mid-engine, but your car makes the rear mount look feasible. I know this was done back in the day with the 215 V8.
Post up some more pics or links to your Photobucket pics! Would also like more info on the rear suspension when you get some time.
As for your radiator, I'm figuring you are ducting air from under the bumper through the core and out the trunk floor? I have a similar setp for my AC condenser in the trunk, and made some sheetmetal panels to duct the air. I have a puller fan on the trunk floor under the condenser & oil cooler. Is everything sealed up OK so no air is going around the radiator? How big is the radiator (HxWxD)? Is it tilted at a really severe angle?
I found on my Jap car LSX swaps the best fans are the Lincoln MK8 and Taurus ones, they really pull the air. I'm using the Lincoln ones on my 280Z & Supra and the Taurus on the Mazda.
For brakes, on my coupe I am running the 4 wheel disks from a 79-85 E-body car (Riviera/Tornado). This is a decent upgrade from the drums and not too bad of an installation, you need a small diameter booster- I got mine from Master Power Brakes. You have to fab up an e-brake cable, but if you can fit an LSX into the engine bay of a Corvair, this will be no problem for you.
Post up some more pics or links to your Photobucket pics! Would also like more info on the rear suspension when you get some time.
As for your radiator, I'm figuring you are ducting air from under the bumper through the core and out the trunk floor? I have a similar setp for my AC condenser in the trunk, and made some sheetmetal panels to duct the air. I have a puller fan on the trunk floor under the condenser & oil cooler. Is everything sealed up OK so no air is going around the radiator? How big is the radiator (HxWxD)? Is it tilted at a really severe angle?
I found on my Jap car LSX swaps the best fans are the Lincoln MK8 and Taurus ones, they really pull the air. I'm using the Lincoln ones on my 280Z & Supra and the Taurus on the Mazda.
For brakes, on my coupe I am running the 4 wheel disks from a 79-85 E-body car (Riviera/Tornado). This is a decent upgrade from the drums and not too bad of an installation, you need a small diameter booster- I got mine from Master Power Brakes. You have to fab up an e-brake cable, but if you can fit an LSX into the engine bay of a Corvair, this will be no problem for you.
04-09-2008, 07:04 PM
#11
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I did my 66 Corvair in about 1972. I used the Toronado transmission and differential and installed a 425 hp. 427. Back then you could not even buy an electric fan. I ran one radiator in the back and another one in the front of the car. It worked. I drove it to work about 50 miles a day.
09-06-2008, 11:10 AM
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Super conversion. I have a 67 with the Toronado 425. I run it at 160-180 with an aluminum radiator and electric fans. The air exits through the trunk floor. Adding a spoiler (Camaro}really helps the cooling. My car turned a 14.008, 99.8 in the quarter on street tires and an open differential on my first (and only) hooked up pass.
