Oil Pressure Problems
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2006
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Oil Pressure Problems I finally installed the oil pump I got from Lingenfelter
Engineering, Hi pressure pump and it went in all
pretty easy except everything I had so squecky clean
is full of all kinda automotive fluids from pulling
everything apart. But seems to have more pressure
now. 55-60 at cold start and at hot idle it gets down to
10-15 but when I hit the gas it goes right back up
to 40-50. Mark from S&P told me I had to remove the
windage tray because of oil drain back and a smaller amount
of oil in the pan because of the notch they cut into for
fitting into a 55 chevy. Anyway thanks for everyone help.
Hopefully I can drive this thing now. And pretty decent gas
mileage too.
Engineering, Hi pressure pump and it went in all
pretty easy except everything I had so squecky clean
is full of all kinda automotive fluids from pulling
everything apart. But seems to have more pressure
now. 55-60 at cold start and at hot idle it gets down to
10-15 but when I hit the gas it goes right back up
to 40-50. Mark from S&P told me I had to remove the
windage tray because of oil drain back and a smaller amount
of oil in the pan because of the notch they cut into for
fitting into a 55 chevy. Anyway thanks for everyone help.
Hopefully I can drive this thing now. And pretty decent gas
mileage too.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Well I ran around the block and the pressure started to
get lower and lower, now its hot idle 5-10psi and on the highway
its 30-35psi. Start up from the change out was great, but
the same old pressure problem is back. I agree 5-10 is
to low for me. I've changed the oil pump, checked the o-ring
100 times, checked the pan to pick clearance, hell I've even
taken off the windage tray now. Whats the bad news?
No engine knocking or engine noise at all, idles fine,
just real low pressure. ENgine is mainly stock.
get lower and lower, now its hot idle 5-10psi and on the highway
its 30-35psi. Start up from the change out was great, but
the same old pressure problem is back. I agree 5-10 is
to low for me. I've changed the oil pump, checked the o-ring
100 times, checked the pan to pick clearance, hell I've even
taken off the windage tray now. Whats the bad news?
No engine knocking or engine noise at all, idles fine,
just real low pressure. ENgine is mainly stock.
Originally Posted by DLSNFL
Well I ran around the block and the pressure started to
get lower and lower, now its hot idle 5-10psi and on the highway
its 30-35psi. Start up from the change out was great, but
the same old pressure problem is back. I agree 5-10 is
to low for me. I've changed the oil pump, checked the o-ring
100 times, checked the pan to pick clearance, hell I've even
taken off the windage tray now. Whats the bad news?
No engine knocking or engine noise at all, idles fine,
just real low pressure. ENgine is mainly stock.
get lower and lower, now its hot idle 5-10psi and on the highway
its 30-35psi. Start up from the change out was great, but
the same old pressure problem is back. I agree 5-10 is
to low for me. I've changed the oil pump, checked the o-ring
100 times, checked the pan to pick clearance, hell I've even
taken off the windage tray now. Whats the bad news?
No engine knocking or engine noise at all, idles fine,
just real low pressure. ENgine is mainly stock.
How certain are you that the oil pump pickup o-ring is installed correctly? Did you use a brand new GM o-ring, install it on the right ridge on the tube, lube it to keep it from pinching, tighten the pickup tube bolt right and using Loctite?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 45
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I had access to both the front and bottom of the engine.
The front cover and oil pan was off. Lots of room.
I had the pump and the pick up off the car. I've removed
the pick-up sooooo many times now. Yes its a GM
blue o-ring. I inspected it off the engine,
and I held the tube up while tighening the bolt.
I would think that if it was an o-ring that it would cause
problems from the start of the engine.
But I can go out to the garage right now and start it up
and will have 50-55psi. But after 20 minutes it will slowly
lower to 5-10 at hot idle. Hitting the gas will bring it right
back up to 30-40 hot. No noticable valve train noise or
knocking either. I've thought about brazing the damn pick up
to the pump but again I would think a problem there would
present itself from the start up.
Thought about draining out the Mobile one 5-30 and putting
in straight 50w Royal Purple. That'll show it who's boss.
Anyway not looking forward to the prospects of tearing it
all out since its all together in show condition, AND I
CAN'T DRIVE IT. And in Minnesota the show and cruising
season for a 55 chevy is coming to a close soon.
The front cover and oil pan was off. Lots of room.
I had the pump and the pick up off the car. I've removed
the pick-up sooooo many times now. Yes its a GM
blue o-ring. I inspected it off the engine,
and I held the tube up while tighening the bolt.
I would think that if it was an o-ring that it would cause
problems from the start of the engine.
But I can go out to the garage right now and start it up
and will have 50-55psi. But after 20 minutes it will slowly
lower to 5-10 at hot idle. Hitting the gas will bring it right
back up to 30-40 hot. No noticable valve train noise or
knocking either. I've thought about brazing the damn pick up
to the pump but again I would think a problem there would
present itself from the start up.
Thought about draining out the Mobile one 5-30 and putting
in straight 50w Royal Purple. That'll show it who's boss.
Anyway not looking forward to the prospects of tearing it
all out since its all together in show condition, AND I
CAN'T DRIVE IT. And in Minnesota the show and cruising
season for a 55 chevy is coming to a close soon.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2006
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I don't know what else to say. Only other thing that I've done to the pick up tube connection was to use a plain washer & lock washer to clamp the un-bolted side of the pick up tube to the pump. I guess there's a possibility that the barbell fitting that goes in the back of the block on the driver's side could have a damaged o-ring that is causing the problem.
There's clearance somewhere; tube o-ring area, barbell fitting o-ring area, relief valve (unlikely since it's a new pump), or bearings. Good-luck
There's clearance somewhere; tube o-ring area, barbell fitting o-ring area, relief valve (unlikely since it's a new pump), or bearings. Good-luck
I don't know if the logic holds on these newer, tighter clearance engines, but on an SBC, 10psi per 1000rpm is usually a good saftey number for oil pressure. Does the Gen III block have the oil-bypass setup that a Gen I does? Is there the little plug and spring issue? I seem to recall seeing on a thread somewhere that some setups (LS2 from a GTO???) needed a little plug installed. I am thinking that the pump is probably fine. How did the engine run before you swapped it? Is there anything to do with the little plate above the oil filter?
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Pump is new from Lingenfelter Engineering. Hi Volume
spring and set up from them. I was never able to start
the engine and let it run to tell. I started it before the
swap to make sure the engine was good, but without
coolant connected I didn't run it for but a minute
or two. Had good pressure, just like it does now.
I can run down to the garage right now and start it
up cold and I'll have 55-60psi. Let it sit idle for
20minutes or run around the block to really warm
things up, and the oil pressure will have during that
time gone down to a hot idle at 5-10psi????
I hit the gas and it comes right back but up not to
55-60, more like 35-40 hot. No sudden drops just
a slow warming up loss of (in my book) adequate
pressure. No valve train or knocking noises, yet.
Idles fine and is very quick.
spring and set up from them. I was never able to start
the engine and let it run to tell. I started it before the
swap to make sure the engine was good, but without
coolant connected I didn't run it for but a minute
or two. Had good pressure, just like it does now.
I can run down to the garage right now and start it
up cold and I'll have 55-60psi. Let it sit idle for
20minutes or run around the block to really warm
things up, and the oil pressure will have during that
time gone down to a hot idle at 5-10psi????
I hit the gas and it comes right back but up not to
55-60, more like 35-40 hot. No sudden drops just
a slow warming up loss of (in my book) adequate
pressure. No valve train or knocking noises, yet.
Idles fine and is very quick.
Originally Posted by WE TODD DID
Sounds like you have a bearing clearance issue. Mains, or cam bearings most likely. Usually rod bearings will be noisy if they are worn out enough to cause oil pressure problems.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 45
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This was a pull out engine from a 2002 Camaro wreck, I'm starting
to wonder if the engine/tranny may have taken some of the
wreck. Sounds like its comming out and off to the engine
guy to drain some more money from my empty wallet.
to wonder if the engine/tranny may have taken some of the
wreck. Sounds like its comming out and off to the engine
guy to drain some more money from my empty wallet.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
From: Mobile AL.
dude that sucks. i rushed my swap as fast i could (ls1 in a 240sx, 2 months and 2 weeks to finish, im slow i know) just to beat that 3 month warranty and hear it run for atleast 2 weeks. if it wasnt for that warranty i would have went slower and did a much better job (paint engine bay, tuck some wires, stuff like that). i was scared as hell for 10 weeks hoping i would make it before the warranty went out to make sure i didnt get screwed. so i kinda know how you feel. i just hope you get it going.
If the balancer was hit you might have a cracked thrust bearing.. I've had similar issues with the rear plastic plug... whatever issue you have I hope you get it workin before time runs out
Don't remember what forum I say it on, but there is a 00 LS1/T56 for sale in St. Paul. I think the guy wanted $3500 for it. You could swap the short-block, and sell of the rest. Just a thought....
Thread Starter
Teching In
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I still haven't given up yet. Mark from S&P told me he wouldn't
worry about it. If it was the o-ring it would be low from start up.
He also thought that knowing how the oil galleries are run, that
a spun cam or main wouldn't lower the oil pressure because of the
engineering of the block galleries. Who knows anymore.
He said run it if you don't hear unusual valve noise.
I don't. Maybe he wants me to buy a new engine??????
I'm going to try Royal Purple XPR 20w50 and a new filter.
Also I have a small leak between the block and the tranny that
the new pan gasket didn't fix. Maybe its that rear plastic
dumb bell oil restrictor thingy somehow popped out of the
pressed in fitting. Or maybe its a leak from the giant crack in
the back of the block I can't see and doesn't seperate until
it heats up.
worry about it. If it was the o-ring it would be low from start up.
He also thought that knowing how the oil galleries are run, that
a spun cam or main wouldn't lower the oil pressure because of the
engineering of the block galleries. Who knows anymore.
He said run it if you don't hear unusual valve noise.
I don't. Maybe he wants me to buy a new engine??????
I'm going to try Royal Purple XPR 20w50 and a new filter.
Also I have a small leak between the block and the tranny that
the new pan gasket didn't fix. Maybe its that rear plastic
dumb bell oil restrictor thingy somehow popped out of the
pressed in fitting. Or maybe its a leak from the giant crack in
the back of the block I can't see and doesn't seperate until
it heats up.