Swap experts inside please
If the money was there, it would go in a cobra kit car
Just ask yourself, what do you want to be driving next ? anyway you go, it will be a good choice (by some and not by others LOL).
P.S. Not even ford bodies are allowed in my shop. No more useing the "F" word
Any of the G-Body cars are easy swaps. The truck intake and accys (except for the A/C comp) clear everything. You still need to swap to f-body exhaust manifolds though as the truck ones are too wide.
You may have to swap to a f-body oil pan. I thought the truck one hung down too low so I swapped. You can get the f-body pan to fit without cutting it or the crossmember but you have to notch the heater box. My passenger side head actually touches the firewall where the heaterbox bolts to the firewall, but I have not had any problems yet. There is a vibration/noise if I get on the throttle in reverse and I think it is probably from the head/firewall fit, but you don`t even get the noise at idle in reverse, you have to be almost at 1/4 throttle in reverse to get it to happen (yeah I probably back up faster than many other people would)
The s10 series stuff should have enough hood height to clear the intake/alt, but I don`t know for sure. Seems like that would be another good choice.
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.To the OP: Decide whether or not modern safety features and modern luxury and styling options are important to you. Once you've made this choice, you will narrow down your options significantly, probably. If you want to go classic, I would go for the lightest car you can find that is well supported - i.e. lots of people have done the swap, lots of parts available for retrofitting GenIII or GenIV engines into them. F-bodies fit in that group; all of the Camaro/Firebirds, so do Chevelles/Elkys, 67-72 GM trucks, Mustangs...I would stick with something that has bolt-in mounts available off-the-shelf. Fabbing up a tranny xmember is easy enough.
The toughest part of any swap (in my opinion) is getting the engine/tranny mounted and driveshaft measured and installed. If you go auto, you greatly reduce your work b/c you don't need to figure out the hydraulic clutch. Once you get the drivetrain in order, wiring and reprogramming is something easily farmed out to other companies or individuals.
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On the 2nd gen the truck intake will clear the hood if you relocate the EVAP purge valve (pics of how to relocate it on my fquick account). You will have to make a new bracket to lower the truck alt though if you want it to clear the hood.





