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clutch line adapter/fitting leakage

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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 11:48 PM
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Default clutch line adapter/fitting leakage

background: LS1 - 240sx swap, using a stock slave cylinder with the mcleod quick disconnect to -4, then a -4 to -3 adapter and a -3 SS line to the wilwood master.

it leaks somewhere at the slave. now ive never dealt with an internal slave with quick disconnect before, are there any tricks or tips or anything? im not sure what piece its leaking from (pulling engine tomorrow) so just throw out some suggestions till i can crack it apart and try to find it

just for my own stupid brain to be at ease:

there should be no teflon tape on an AN fitting correct?

they are generally tightened to 40-50ish ft lbs on a -4 size?

theres no tricks or stupid procedures to install the mcleod adapter? just pound out the rollpin, put the adapter in, and pound the rollpin back in place? no alignment or any other gay ****?

thanks guys, this was my first real snag on the swap and thats mostly thanks to this site <3
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 12:07 AM
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you know. i was disappointed with mine. it wouldnt fit in the hole. i had to turn the diameter down a few thousandths right behind the o-ring.

its super tight in there. but id like to test it for leaks before it spews all over my clutch.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 12:17 AM
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your mcleod fitting?

and thats another thing, i need to figure out how to leak test that part of the system OFF of the car haha.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 06:36 AM
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yes. mcleod. we're in the same boat.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 04:45 PM
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i don't have the mcleod -4an adapter but i bought a similar -3an adapter...and with my first slave...i pumped it outside the tranny...i pumped it so much it blew the throwout bearing rite off the seating and blew the seal in the piston too...i bought another slave and i just pumped it enuff to get alot of fluid thru then stopped...installed it in tranny and mounted tranny...pumped fluid again...this time with the pressure plate pushing back with pressure...everything worked out ok..and i also used thread sealer too...and i have remote bleeder along with it...
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 05:00 PM
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yea i know if you pump a slave with nothing to push against it will blow it apart.

you use a RTV style sealer or teflon tape?
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 05:07 PM
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none of those...it's called thread sealer...forgot the brand...but it's thread sealer printed real big on it...bought it from autozone...
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 05:27 PM
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permatex thread sealent by chance?

red package, white tube? hehe
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Kamin
permatex thread sealent by chance?

red package, white tube? hehe

yeah...thas wat it is...permatex....and the sealants are white too...now when i bought the remote bleeder from a sponsor here...he sent a lil sealant package...but it wasn't anything like i bought...it was really liquidy and purple/reddish...
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 05:38 PM
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interesting...

**** it im sealing everything. im not taking any chances i dont want to pull this damn engine again haha.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Kamin
interesting...

**** it im sealing everything. im not taking any chances i dont want to pull this damn engine again haha.

thas wat i did...anything with fluid i seal...
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 06:11 PM
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i got that remote bleeder too. nice deal for 65.

yea, i think im gonna put a ring over the t-o bearing and have someone stand on it. then pump for leaks.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 08:59 PM
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ok im pretty sure i found the problem, but am unsure how to fix it haha

i have this -4 to -3 adapter


and this mcleod adapter


does anyone see a problem?

the mcleod adapter isnt long enough/the summit adapter is too deep. it doesnt seal up against the female side of the -4 to -3 adapter.

i think i just might shorten the summit adapter and give it a shot. if it works, awesome, if it doesnt, looks like im selling a mcleod quick disconnect and waiting for the russel one haha
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 09:20 PM
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yeah...get rid of the mcleod and get the russell one for cheap....but y not get -4 an line???
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 10:49 PM
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well on my adapter from russel i used a crush washer because the adapter didn't go all the way down cause the threads are a bit longer. not to mention it wont seal for **** since the edge isn't machined. the crush washer helps it seal the fitting against the housing. i also wrapped the threads with teflon. i haven't bled it yet but im pretty sure its not going to have any issues.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Yellowbrother
yeah...get rid of the mcleod and get the russell one for cheap....but y not get -4 an line???

they didnt have a -4 to banjo line that fits with the wilwood master or i would have. and i didnt get a russell one because they have been on backorder for over a month. im on a tight time constraint to get this car done as my season is starting in a couple weeks.

regardless i cut off about 1/8th an inch from the summit adapter with our air cutoff wheel, cleaned the threads a bit and reinstalled everything. so far so good! holding pressure like a champ. i have a picture ill upload tomorrow.

datboibrad- the purpose of a an fitting isnt to seal the ends of the housings together, its to seal the 2 angled surfaces on the inside. i dont know if thats going to work. you need to have the 2 pieces inside butt against each other, not the ends of the pieces.
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Old Aug 12, 2007 | 05:33 AM
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damn i have the motor all mounted and everything and i forgot to put any thread sealant on the bleed line i made
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Old Aug 12, 2007 | 10:55 AM
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If you need thread sealant then something is wrong. The threads on AN fittings do nothing but hold the cone against the seat - they do not act as the seal at all. Fix it right or you will be back in there before you know it.
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Old Aug 12, 2007 | 11:49 AM
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rao is right! you shouldnt need thread sealant on any AN fittings.

and i drove the car today for the first time, clutch works great
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 07:16 PM
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If the AN female is too deep, you can use a sift copper crush washer.

Mike
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