is four inches too much?
is four inches too much? worked on mounting the master cylinder for the T56 today. expanded a pre-existing hole in the firewall at a potentially good location (for the MC, at least)
i'll be honest: my engineering skills and "what will work" meter just aren't too keen. i also don't want to have something bend/break/snap while i'm driving down the interstate, leaving me stranded and possibly dead.
here's my question - see the attached pictures for reference (the MC is to the right of the square hole).
now, my MC rod is parallel to my clutch pedal, 4" away. is this too much to adapt?
if not, help a n00b out - how would you recommend working this out? i have a welder to weld something onto the pedal, but i don't have a clue as to what the best method to make this happen would be - what shape and thickness of metal, if bushings/bearings are required, how to reinforce the bracket properly, etc.
thanks for any and all suggestions! once this is in, i only have two major tasks before i can drive! (slave fitting replacement and minor wiring).
i'll be honest: my engineering skills and "what will work" meter just aren't too keen. i also don't want to have something bend/break/snap while i'm driving down the interstate, leaving me stranded and possibly dead.
here's my question - see the attached pictures for reference (the MC is to the right of the square hole).
now, my MC rod is parallel to my clutch pedal, 4" away. is this too much to adapt?
if not, help a n00b out - how would you recommend working this out? i have a welder to weld something onto the pedal, but i don't have a clue as to what the best method to make this happen would be - what shape and thickness of metal, if bushings/bearings are required, how to reinforce the bracket properly, etc.
thanks for any and all suggestions! once this is in, i only have two major tasks before i can drive! (slave fitting replacement and minor wiring).
gotcha covered on both boards
this is what id do....no, its not a CAD drawing, im that good with paint!!!! then get all thread and screw a eye clevous on it.. then put a bolt in the "hole" and threw the clevvous.... connect the other end to the slave cyl. with the approiate size double nut.. then it would be adjustable too......if this makes no sence to you, its cause im a genius..
this is what id do....no, its not a CAD drawing, im that good with paint!!!! then get all thread and screw a eye clevous on it.. then put a bolt in the "hole" and threw the clevvous.... connect the other end to the slave cyl. with the approiate size double nut.. then it would be adjustable too......if this makes no sence to you, its cause im a genius..
thanks! i've seen how others have done it. i have no question it's possible and with me gutting the stock wiring, there's so much space over there it's stupid. i may need to weld a plate onto the firewall to reinforce it (from the foot pressure), but realistically, i'm more concerned about the mechanics and making it bulletproof.
i'd have never guessed i'd have taken so long to complete this, i was asking FirstGen about his clutch stuff over 18 months ago
i think i've gone through two diff't MC's at this point, three potential mounting spots, four different bracket fabrications...i am looking for an 'easier' solution which will be 'easier' for others to implement. all about making a manual tranny easier for most people to put in.
i'd have never guessed i'd have taken so long to complete this, i was asking FirstGen about his clutch stuff over 18 months ago
i think i've gone through two diff't MC's at this point, three potential mounting spots, four different bracket fabrications...i am looking for an 'easier' solution which will be 'easier' for others to implement. all about making a manual tranny easier for most people to put in. Wow, what problems are you having with all this? I thrashed the hell out of mine and never had an issue...
Damn it's been so long I can barely remember where it was I had it at. I know if was lower and almost inline with the throw of the clutch pedal. Sure you can make that work but it's far from ideal positioning...
What is the benefit of having it where it is in your picture?
-Taylor
Damn it's been so long I can barely remember where it was I had it at. I know if was lower and almost inline with the throw of the clutch pedal. Sure you can make that work but it's far from ideal positioning...
What is the benefit of having it where it is in your picture?
-Taylor
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Verdad Gallardo FirstGen,
yeah, i've seen those pics before.
stealth71,
see attached. note the third pic - two reasons i am not mounting next to the master cylinder provision: a) proximity to power brake booster will be too close to look good IMO, and b) note the red lines - that is where the ridge is for the firewall reinforcement - more of a pain in the *** than it's worth with the tools i've got. also, note the red 'spring'. if you look in the original pic, i measured it out, the spring is going to rub against the shaft of the MC that si coming thru the firewall.
yeah, i've seen those pics before.
stealth71,
see attached. note the third pic - two reasons i am not mounting next to the master cylinder provision: a) proximity to power brake booster will be too close to look good IMO, and b) note the red lines - that is where the ridge is for the firewall reinforcement - more of a pain in the *** than it's worth with the tools i've got. also, note the red 'spring'. if you look in the original pic, i measured it out, the spring is going to rub against the shaft of the MC that si coming thru the firewall.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
From: Quakertown, PA
Shifty, I put a manual tranny in my Jeep, and had much the same issue as you regarding the brake booster. Unfortunately I do not have any room off to the side like you. I ended up installing a hydraboost setup instead of the vacuum booster. Besides the fact it is much smaller in diameter, it is a vast improvement in brake performance. You can pick them up off of the bay cheap enough, and they rarely seem to go bad. Just another idea to consider.
Originally Posted by FirstGen
I think you are just making it harder on your self but what do I know!
with the mounts i used, i couldn't put my slave cylinder where you did, it would have been touching the manifolds. ever since i figured that out, it's been a constant mission trying to find a new place to put it. granted, i got everything running in the meantime, and have been making other improvements to the truck to make it streetworthy, but ....
Originally Posted by jeepinpete
I ended up installing a hydraboost setup instead of the vacuum booster. Besides the fact it is much smaller in diameter, it is a vast improvement in brake performance. You can pick them up off of the bay cheap enough, and they rarely seem to go bad. Just another idea to consider.
Just curious. I considered doing an electric booster (remote), but ... I can totally make this work ... with some forethought.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
From: Quakertown, PA
Take a look here , post #13 for some pictures.
The pedals in the Jeep are fairly close to the firewall. I made a mounting plate for the booster, and had to shorten and thread the rod on the booster (they are not removable). I planned on using a heim joint to joint the booster to the pedal, but the stud on the pedal is both an odd size, and permanent in nature. I ended up drilling and tapping a piece of aluminum to thread on the rod, and crossed drilled a hole to slip over the pedal pin.
The pedals in the Jeep are fairly close to the firewall. I made a mounting plate for the booster, and had to shorten and thread the rod on the booster (they are not removable). I planned on using a heim joint to joint the booster to the pedal, but the stud on the pedal is both an odd size, and permanent in nature. I ended up drilling and tapping a piece of aluminum to thread on the rod, and crossed drilled a hole to slip over the pedal pin.
Originally Posted by shifty`
you're right. this is actually the only thing i've been super **** about, because i want it to be done right and look good. when it comes to anything punching through the firewall, i take quit a bit of extra time to make sure i'm not going to have multiple holes.
with the mounts i used, i couldn't put my slave cylinder where you did, it would have been touching the manifolds. ever since i figured that out, it's been a constant mission trying to find a new place to put it. granted, i got everything running in the meantime, and have been making other improvements to the truck to make it streetworthy, but ....
with the mounts i used, i couldn't put my slave cylinder where you did, it would have been touching the manifolds. ever since i figured that out, it's been a constant mission trying to find a new place to put it. granted, i got everything running in the meantime, and have been making other improvements to the truck to make it streetworthy, but ....
I guess the exhaust is the issue then, I didn't understand that you were not able to use the same location.
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 131
Likes: 3
Shifty - please, if you go with the hydroboost, post as many details as possible. My vacuum booster isn't so hot and if I yank that apart I want to do it right. Plus, the LS1's power steering pump has pressure to spare to say the least with the stock truck gearbox 
In all honesty I need to give my whole brake system a solid once-over, it's getting to where I have trouble locking any of the tires up...and when you've got a LS1 that can get 4000lb of steel moving at stupid velocities, it would be nice to have brakes that can slow it down just as quickly.
In all honesty I need to give my whole brake system a solid once-over, it's getting to where I have trouble locking any of the tires up...and when you've got a LS1 that can get 4000lb of steel moving at stupid velocities, it would be nice to have brakes that can slow it down just as quickly.
