Invading Germany: LSX into BMW E34 525/535
02-19-2008, 12:50 PM
#201
im glad to see you almost have this project done (well running). did u delete your cardomain i clicked on your link and it has an error? Also i know your probaly not thinking about this but what are u gonna build for your next project? (i love your builds)
Last edited by need ls1 not wankel; 02-19-2008 at 12:58 PM.
02-19-2008, 08:55 PM
#202
Stupid mistakes... I'm glad to see you almost have this project done (well running). Did you delete your cardomain? I clicked on your link and it has an error. Also, I know you're probably not thinking about this but what are you gonna build for your next project? (I love your builds)
Yes, the cardomain stuff was deleted- too much crap in my guestbooks from the "purist" element. I am trying to move stuff to an F Quick page, but with my slow connection this could take longer than building the cars!
I have lost the desire to do any more swapping/fabricating for the time being. Just as well since there is still a boatload of stuff to be done with the other vehicles in the garage, and Mrs. Builder said no more projects until they are fixed.
As for today's work, I found out why my dipstick was off. When I put the "custom" tube in place, I failed to seat it all the way. I actually had it between the wrong manifold tubes so it was way too high. Glad I caught this before trying to start the motor. Major PITA to redo it since I had to realign the manifold to get the rear 10mm bolt for the dipstick in place. I know I can offset some of the extra oil by turning the motor over and getting it into the filter & oil cooler.
PCV system
I went to Harbor Freight & picked up a $5 water filter/separator made for air tools. It has 1/4 pipe inlet and outlet fittings, and they sell 3/8 barb connectors that thread in, so hookup is pretty easy. When I tested it, I found it would not seal. This was due to an inexpensive drain valve (like I really expected a lot for $5
). I pulled the e-clips holding it in place and removed it. I put in a short 3/8 bolt with a couple of AC o-rings to seal the head & the nut. No more leaks, and I can pull the nut to drain any oil, or just unscrew the cup. Here are some pics of the parts used, and also the initial install:
Got the OBX BOV installed today also!
Driver side front plumbing & modified cruise control unit
02-22-2008, 09:33 PM
#203
Progress-Bugs More incremental progress:
Drained 1.5 quarts of oil, more on this later.
I was doing electrical testing & noted the PCM could not be found w/ HP Tuners. It turns out the accessory power feed I was using had no power, so I tapped the small fuse panel I added to obtain power. No issues after that, I was able to read the PCM & save the stock file. I updated my overall wiring diagram & will update in the prior post so it has the latest info.
The starter would not engage, so I charged the battery with the same results. The problem here was the ground strap to the motor was too short, so I made another one from a leftover battery cable.
Once I was able to turn the motor over, I found a large amount of oil coming from the oil cooler adapter. Apparently the mod I made (drilling & retapping the bolt) to the adapter does not allow it to seal. I did find a replacement part at Pegasus Racing, PN CM 22-549- 22 x 1.5mm Billet Aluminum Sandwich Plate, 2.62" O-ring. This will allow use of the metric thread on the H3 oil pan and require use of a Fram 10060 or AC PF48 oil filter. It also will require some 1/2 pipe to 10AN adapters vs the 0-ring fittings used on the Earl's unit it is replacing. No problem, I have a couple of these on hand. I hope I can reuse the hoses I made for the Earl's adapter, they look to be about the same size.
The heater hose arrived today, so I can now finish the cooling system plumbing and add coolant.
I ordered some throttle cable pieces from Pegasus to adapt the cruise control cable to the GM throttle body. Here is a diagram:
The trick will be attaching the 10-32 stud to the BMW cable. Hopefully, a crimp will work.
As soon as the replacement oil cooler adapter arrives I can put in some more oil & retest the motor.
I shot a couple of pics of the added gauges in the dark:
The illumination is with the supplied Autometer red bulb covers. It is close enough to the OEM BMW Orange.
It looks like I will be able to put the hood back on soon. This will free up the 280Z so it can receive some needed attention.
Still have to cut openings for the side marker lights in the new bumper cover. I used the old trim pieces as templates on where to cut. Once that is done, it has to be painted & installed. I have some Alpine White III paint to do so, and will paint the trim pads black so the appearance is stock.
I will have a bit of work to do with HP Tuners since I am going to convert the operating system to Speed Density and not use the MAF. I also have to incorporate the wideband output through the EGR.
Drained 1.5 quarts of oil, more on this later.
I was doing electrical testing & noted the PCM could not be found w/ HP Tuners. It turns out the accessory power feed I was using had no power, so I tapped the small fuse panel I added to obtain power. No issues after that, I was able to read the PCM & save the stock file. I updated my overall wiring diagram & will update in the prior post so it has the latest info.
The starter would not engage, so I charged the battery with the same results. The problem here was the ground strap to the motor was too short, so I made another one from a leftover battery cable.
Once I was able to turn the motor over, I found a large amount of oil coming from the oil cooler adapter. Apparently the mod I made (drilling & retapping the bolt) to the adapter does not allow it to seal. I did find a replacement part at Pegasus Racing, PN CM 22-549- 22 x 1.5mm Billet Aluminum Sandwich Plate, 2.62" O-ring. This will allow use of the metric thread on the H3 oil pan and require use of a Fram 10060 or AC PF48 oil filter. It also will require some 1/2 pipe to 10AN adapters vs the 0-ring fittings used on the Earl's unit it is replacing. No problem, I have a couple of these on hand. I hope I can reuse the hoses I made for the Earl's adapter, they look to be about the same size.
The heater hose arrived today, so I can now finish the cooling system plumbing and add coolant.
I ordered some throttle cable pieces from Pegasus to adapt the cruise control cable to the GM throttle body. Here is a diagram:
The trick will be attaching the 10-32 stud to the BMW cable. Hopefully, a crimp will work.
As soon as the replacement oil cooler adapter arrives I can put in some more oil & retest the motor.
I shot a couple of pics of the added gauges in the dark:
The illumination is with the supplied Autometer red bulb covers. It is close enough to the OEM BMW Orange.
It looks like I will be able to put the hood back on soon. This will free up the 280Z so it can receive some needed attention.
Still have to cut openings for the side marker lights in the new bumper cover. I used the old trim pieces as templates on where to cut. Once that is done, it has to be painted & installed. I have some Alpine White III paint to do so, and will paint the trim pads black so the appearance is stock.
I will have a bit of work to do with HP Tuners since I am going to convert the operating system to Speed Density and not use the MAF. I also have to incorporate the wideband output through the EGR.
Last edited by V8 Supra Builder; 02-22-2008 at 10:59 PM.
02-26-2008, 12:38 AM
#204
Light at the end of the tunnel I can now see the light at the end of the tunnel with this project. Today I got the throttle bracket fabricated and cut the openings for the side marker lights. Also cut out the fitting for the external air temp sensor from the old bumper and bolted it under the reinforcement. I also found my Motorcraft fan connector and got it wired in.
Next up are some parts shipments for the oil cooler adpater, cruise control cable end, and clutch switch. I am going to paint the bumper cover today since we are in for some cold weather soon.
After that, the brakes need to be bled and the wheels put back on. If all goes well, I can then make a trip to the alignment shop and then start some road test tuning.
I also have tried to edit all of this info to my Fquick Journal and have replaced my Car Domain links here with the Fquick one.
During some down time on the BMW, I was able to do some work on the V8 Supra and fix a couple of persistent bugs (tach & fuel pressure). Here is a recent Supra/RX7 video.
Hope to have similar BMW video here soon.
and got it wired in.Next up are some parts shipments for the oil cooler adpater, cruise control cable end, and clutch switch. I am going to paint the bumper cover today since we are in for some cold weather soon.
After that, the brakes need to be bled and the wheels put back on. If all goes well, I can then make a trip to the alignment shop and then start some road test tuning.
I also have tried to edit all of this info to my Fquick Journal and have replaced my Car Domain links here with the Fquick one.
During some down time on the BMW, I was able to do some work on the V8 Supra and fix a couple of persistent bugs (tach & fuel pressure). Here is a recent Supra/RX7 video.
Hope to have similar BMW video here soon.
02-28-2008, 12:04 AM
#205
Good news & bad news The good:
Five months later and it runs! I compiled a SD program with HP Tuners & it started right up.
The tach is right on the money (I recalibrated it in HP Tuners, changed resolution from 6/6 to 4/4).
All my installed gauges are working.
The pipe coating seems to be working pretty good- still hot to the touch, but not radiating heat like a normal pipe.
The Canton oil cooler adapter with the pipe to AN fittings takes up less space than the Earl's one did, I was able to use the same hoses, plus it doesn't leak.
The fanbelt drive system is working OK with the BMW PS pump.
Nothing flew off the motor
.
The bad:
Leaks!
The clutch hose has a weeping leak apparently right in the middle. First time I've seen this happen on a braided line. I am planning to isolate the section, cut it out, and put in a splice and two hose ends. Removing the hose is not practical.
The exhaust pipes are leaking- I think part of this is the wastegate not being tightened.
After the motor had been running, I noticed a lot of smoke on the passenger side. There was a good bit of oil by the turbo & manifold. I will look into this tomorrow. I suspect it is coming from the turbo but need to take some stuff apart to be sure.
The video I shot is 138MB, Fquick has a 100MB limit, so I edited it down to about 41MB (and learned how to add a title overlay) & uploaded it to my Fquick page.
EDIT- Bad codec on the video & my connection has slowed down to < dialup. I will redo it & upload again in a few days if things improve.
Five months later and it runs! I compiled a SD program with HP Tuners & it started right up.
The tach is right on the money (I recalibrated it in HP Tuners, changed resolution from 6/6 to 4/4).
All my installed gauges are working.
The pipe coating seems to be working pretty good- still hot to the touch, but not radiating heat like a normal pipe.
The Canton oil cooler adapter with the pipe to AN fittings takes up less space than the Earl's one did, I was able to use the same hoses, plus it doesn't leak.
The fanbelt drive system is working OK with the BMW PS pump.
Nothing flew off the motor
.The bad:
Leaks!
The clutch hose has a weeping leak apparently right in the middle. First time I've seen this happen on a braided line. I am planning to isolate the section, cut it out, and put in a splice and two hose ends. Removing the hose is not practical.
The exhaust pipes are leaking- I think part of this is the wastegate not being tightened.
After the motor had been running, I noticed a lot of smoke on the passenger side. There was a good bit of oil by the turbo & manifold. I will look into this tomorrow. I suspect it is coming from the turbo but need to take some stuff apart to be sure.
The video I shot is 138MB, Fquick has a 100MB limit, so I edited it down to about 41MB (and learned how to add a title overlay) & uploaded it to my Fquick page.
EDIT- Bad codec on the video & my connection has slowed down to < dialup. I will redo it & upload again in a few days if things improve.
Last edited by V8 Supra Builder; 02-29-2008 at 10:54 PM. Reason: Non-functional video!
02-28-2008, 07:17 AM
#206
Teching In
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Awesome!, You've got to be very excited. I can't wait for video's of it out driving.
The good:
Five months later and it runs! I compiled a SD program with HP Tuners & it started right up.
The tach is right on the money (I recalibrated it in HP Tuners, changed resolution from 6/6 to 4/4).
All my installed gauges are working.
The pipe coating seems to be working pretty good- still hot to the touch, but not radiating heat like a normal pipe.
The Canton oil cooler adapter with the pipe to AN fittings takes up less space than the Earl's one did, I was able to use the same hoses, plus it doesn't leak.
The fanbelt drive system is working OK with the BMW PS pump.
Nothing flew off the motor.
The bad:
Leaks!
The clutch hose has a weeping leak apparently right in the middle. First time I've seen this happen on a braided line. I am planning to isolate the section, cut it out, and put in a splice and two hose ends. Removing the hose is not practical.
The exhaust pipes are leaking- I think part of this is the wastegate not being tightened.
After the motor had been running, I noticed a lot of smoke on the passenger side. There was a good bit of oil by the turbo & manifold. I will look into this tomorrow. I suspect it is coming from the turbo but need to take some stuff apart to be sure.
The video I shot is 138MB, Fquick has a 100MB limit, so I edited it down to about 41MB (and learned how to add a title overlay) & uploaded it to my Fquick page.
Video Link
Five months later and it runs! I compiled a SD program with HP Tuners & it started right up.
The tach is right on the money (I recalibrated it in HP Tuners, changed resolution from 6/6 to 4/4).
All my installed gauges are working.
The pipe coating seems to be working pretty good- still hot to the touch, but not radiating heat like a normal pipe.
The Canton oil cooler adapter with the pipe to AN fittings takes up less space than the Earl's one did, I was able to use the same hoses, plus it doesn't leak.
The fanbelt drive system is working OK with the BMW PS pump.
Nothing flew off the motor
.The bad:
Leaks!
The clutch hose has a weeping leak apparently right in the middle. First time I've seen this happen on a braided line. I am planning to isolate the section, cut it out, and put in a splice and two hose ends. Removing the hose is not practical.
The exhaust pipes are leaking- I think part of this is the wastegate not being tightened.
After the motor had been running, I noticed a lot of smoke on the passenger side. There was a good bit of oil by the turbo & manifold. I will look into this tomorrow. I suspect it is coming from the turbo but need to take some stuff apart to be sure.
The video I shot is 138MB, Fquick has a 100MB limit, so I edited it down to about 41MB (and learned how to add a title overlay) & uploaded it to my Fquick page.
Video Link
02-29-2008, 10:44 PM
#207
Update I tested my oil drain hose & found it is causing the oil to backup into the turbine housing. The problem with the fitting on the pan is that the oil pickup goes right past it, so the draining is cut down somewhat. I had cut notches into the nut inside the pan, but even with these it is not draining fast enough. I don't see a really good place to drain on the passenger side of the pan. In lieu of removing the pan & trying something different, I am going to use a small electric oil pump to assist the draining into the pan. The pump is a gear type purpose built for this type of use. I got it ordered today, and am planning on locating it next to the turbo by the idler pulley. If there is not enough room there, it can go under the exhaust manifold.
The fittings for the clutch line arrived today, as did some more paint for the bumper cover.
My online connection has been really hit or miss (mostly miss) so I will update with pics when this improves.
Fquick notified me the codec I used on the cut down video was not recognized, so that is on hold until I can figure out something that will work.
The fittings for the clutch line arrived today, as did some more paint for the bumper cover.
My online connection has been really hit or miss (mostly miss) so I will update with pics when this improves.
Fquick notified me the codec I used on the cut down video was not recognized, so that is on hold until I can figure out something that will work.
Last edited by V8 Supra Builder; 02-29-2008 at 10:51 PM.
03-01-2008, 06:37 PM
#208
Bumper cover painted I sprayed the bumper cover today. I painted the molded rub strips and the part at the bottom black, to match the rest of the trim on the car.
I need to touch up a few spots on it, then buff the clear coat and reinstall the mesh pieces for the openings (I painted them black). After that it can be installed & I am going to layout some type of duct under it to force air through the oil cooler/condenser/radiator.
I am going to find some larger foglights to match the openings more closely.
Cruise cable was hooked up, not too much else going on with this until the oil drain pump gets here & I can see if I can plumb it in where I want it.
Still learning about video codecs so I can upload my video.
EDIT
Gave up on Fquick- I think it is my connection. Got the file down to <4MB and uploaded it to LSX.streetfire.net:
Click here to see the BMW 553iT Video
I need to touch up a few spots on it, then buff the clear coat and reinstall the mesh pieces for the openings (I painted them black). After that it can be installed & I am going to layout some type of duct under it to force air through the oil cooler/condenser/radiator.
I am going to find some larger foglights to match the openings more closely.
Cruise cable was hooked up, not too much else going on with this until the oil drain pump gets here & I can see if I can plumb it in where I want it.
Still learning about video codecs so I can upload my video.
EDIT
Gave up on Fquick- I think it is my connection. Got the file down to <4MB and uploaded it to LSX.streetfire.net:
Click here to see the BMW 553iT Video
Last edited by V8 Supra Builder; 03-01-2008 at 09:09 PM. Reason: Video link fixed- I hope
03-03-2008, 04:12 PM
#209
Bumper cover installed, air deflector Today I got the bumper cover installed, to include the side marker lights. I also created an air deflector out of some 6x18x.025 aluminum panels. The idea is to force all air coming in the main opening through the oil cooler, condenser, and radiator. They attach on the rear to the OEM air deflector (minus the rubber strip that is riveted on), then tuck under the main bumper opening. I had to trim the aluminum on the driver side to clear the oil cooler. It is a pretty good fit, and I added some steel straps (I was going to use some more angle iron but I have run out of it) from the core support forward to reinforce the bottom and the sides (so they do not deflect at road speed), and some closed cell foam pipe insulation between those and the bumper cover. The straps on the ends have some 6" steel repair plates with some 3/4 heater hose over the ends welded to them to hold the aluminum in on the sides. I was going to seal the assembly with some JB Weld , but unfortunately I ran out of it. Here are some pics:
Bumper cover:
Air deflector:
I also got the brakes bled and the wheels back on. I had picked up some aluminum spacers to replace the cracked plastic ones that were on the car (needed for the wheels that are on the car).
I have ordered some larger fog lights (Vision VXF-33) that should fill the openings better.
The oil pump should arrive this week, so I can work on that install and get the car back on the ground and put the hood on and see if it will close.
I got some good news today. It turns out I have used so much JB Weld on the project that I caught the attention of the company, and I have been offered a distributorship for the SE USA. I am debating doing this or investing in some angle iron stock options, as I have at the same time apparently created a shortage of that material. I have until April 1 to decide which path to follow.
but I have run out of it) from the core support forward to reinforce the bottom and the sides (so they do not deflect at road speed), and some closed cell foam pipe insulation between those and the bumper cover. The straps on the ends have some 6" steel repair plates with some 3/4 heater hose over the ends welded to them to hold the aluminum in on the sides. I was going to seal the assembly with some JB Weld , but unfortunately I ran out of it. Here are some pics:Bumper cover:
Air deflector:
I also got the brakes bled and the wheels back on. I had picked up some aluminum spacers to replace the cracked plastic ones that were on the car (needed for the wheels that are on the car).
I have ordered some larger fog lights (Vision VXF-33) that should fill the openings better.
The oil pump should arrive this week, so I can work on that install and get the car back on the ground and put the hood on and see if it will close.
I got some good news today. It turns out I have used so much JB Weld
on the project that I caught the attention of the company, and I have been offered a distributorship for the SE USA. I am debating doing this or investing in some angle iron stock options, as I have at the same time apparently created a shortage of that material. I have until April 1 to decide which path to follow. 
03-04-2008, 09:13 AM
#211
Retirement (time to be able to do things I always wanted to do) and a great wife (time to devote to my projects) are necessary things in order to accomplish this. Getting cloned before it was made illegal was also helpful
.
03-04-2008, 11:46 AM
#213
One thing, well first off Thats is one hell of a build. much respect on this one. But looking at the pictures wont your turbo melt the passenger fuel rail cover they look very close, and with the high underhood temps you will experiencing, i would get those out of there....just food for thought.
03-11-2008, 12:27 PM
#214
91parkave,
Heat is a big concern of mine. When I test fired the motor, I noted the coating seemed to be working- the pipes were hot if you touched them, but an inch away & the heat was not so bad. Some run time will tell on this.
I actually have 2 of 4 conversion vehicles running as of now. The oil pump should arrive today and once that is plumbed I can do some driving/tuning on the BMW. I also got the foglights for it yesterday and made some small brackets to mount them using the holes I had drilled for the smaller lights. While they are not a perfect fit, they fill the openings a lot better:
I also found that all my dash error messages are now gone except for "Parking Light". Turns out I had two burned out side marker light bulbs & some corrosion on one of the sockets.
In the mean time, I fixed the tach & fuel issues on the Supra and am prepping it for a few new coats of paint. If this works out well, I can then do the same with the 280Z.
Mrs. Builder said no new projects until the current ones are fixed. Good thing she is around or it would look like Fly By Night Auto Sales here
. I tend to follow the Jeff Smith guidelines for having old cars follow me home.
03-11-2008, 11:46 PM
#215
Oil pump & turbo timer The pump & turbo timer arrived today:
I spent quite some time identifying the fittings:
Then the next issue was trying to find adapters to connect to my AN fittings. Turns out they are British (metric) pipe, or BPP with o-rings. I found a place called Discount Hydraulic Hose that had straight and 90 degree adapters to step these up to the AN10 I am using for the drain hose. Here is a diagram of what I am planning to do:
The pump will only run when there is over 8 PSI of oil pressure, and it will run for 0-90 seconds (I will adjust the delay) after the motor shuts off. I got most of the wiring done today and will wait until the adapter fittings arrive and the pump is mounted to finalize the wiring.
Due to the limited space, I need to run a 90 degree adapter on the inlet side and then a straight one on the outlet versus trying to use the 3/8 male pipe fittings that came with the pump. I can then use my existing hose to connect to the outlet, and a couple of 90 degree hose ends to connect to the turbo drain. I reversed the head assembly on the pump to align the ports for my setup, although I could have reversed the polarity with the same effect. I tested the pump with a funnel and some motor oil and it flowed adequately.
I'm planning on mounting the pump almost vertical by the tensioner pulley. I need to make up a bracket that will bolt to the passenger head. The pump itself has rubber standoffs to absorb vibration, so it can mount to a flat plate OK. I'll update here with pics once this is done.
UPDATE-
Bracket:
Pump test fit:
Turbo oil filter & pressure switch:
Turbo timer installed:
I spent quite some time identifying the fittings:
Then the next issue was trying to find adapters to connect to my AN fittings. Turns out they are British (metric) pipe, or BPP with o-rings. I found a place called Discount Hydraulic Hose that had straight and 90 degree adapters to step these up to the AN10 I am using for the drain hose. Here is a diagram of what I am planning to do:
The pump will only run when there is over 8 PSI of oil pressure, and it will run for 0-90 seconds (I will adjust the delay) after the motor shuts off. I got most of the wiring done today and will wait until the adapter fittings arrive and the pump is mounted to finalize the wiring.
Due to the limited space, I need to run a 90 degree adapter on the inlet side and then a straight one on the outlet versus trying to use the 3/8 male pipe fittings that came with the pump. I can then use my existing hose to connect to the outlet, and a couple of 90 degree hose ends to connect to the turbo drain. I reversed the head assembly on the pump to align the ports for my setup, although I could have reversed the polarity with the same effect. I tested the pump with a funnel and some motor oil and it flowed adequately.
I'm planning on mounting the pump almost vertical by the tensioner pulley. I need to make up a bracket that will bolt to the passenger head. The pump itself has rubber standoffs to absorb vibration, so it can mount to a flat plate OK. I'll update here with pics once this is done.
UPDATE-
Bracket:
Pump test fit:
Turbo oil filter & pressure switch:
Turbo timer installed:
Last edited by V8 Supra Builder; 03-12-2008 at 10:21 PM. Reason: Added pics
03-16-2008, 09:45 AM
#216
Should have stayed in bed... After working out the oil pump, I double checked some things, wrestled the exhaust into place, & reflashed the PCM with some updated info... unfortunately, I found out that after the car wouldn't start I had fried the PCM since I did not do a "write entire" as required, my own stupid mistake.
At least all the error messages are gone from the dash now & the trip computer looks like it is working OK...
One nice thing to using the same PCM on my swaps is I had another readily available in my (partially disassembled and looking better with every coat of paint) Supra, so I borrowed it and used the 5.3L program on it.
The car started, and I found that the oil is still leaking out of the back of the turbo.
Since the pump is rated at 2 GPM and I have a .065 restrictor in the oil feed line, this leads me to believe the seal on the turbo is bad.
On to plan B, I am going to pull the 60-1 turbo from the Trans Am since it will bolt up to what I have and the price is right. I will work on finding a larger unit for it later (the battery died & won't take a charge so it is not going anywhere either).
I've also had online connection problems (usually slower than dial up) and am trying to get this worked out with my ISP as well. If I don't post for a while this is usually the cause.
At least all the error messages are gone from the dash now & the trip computer looks like it is working OK...
One nice thing to using the same PCM on my swaps is I had another readily available in my (partially disassembled and looking better with every coat of paint) Supra, so I borrowed it and used the 5.3L program on it.
The car started, and I found that the oil is still leaking out of the back of the turbo.
Since the pump is rated at 2 GPM and I have a .065 restrictor in the oil feed line, this leads me to believe the seal on the turbo is bad.
On to plan B, I am going to pull the 60-1 turbo from the Trans Am since it will bolt up to what I have and the price is right. I will work on finding a larger unit for it later (the battery died & won't take a charge so it is not going anywhere either).
I've also had online connection problems (usually slower than dial up) and am trying to get this worked out with my ISP as well. If I don't post for a while this is usually the cause.
03-17-2008, 06:59 PM
#217
Turbos, PCM, hood is on I pulled the MP 60-1 from the Trans Am & had forgotten how small it was. It made 498 RWHP & 579 RWTQ on th LT4 spec 383 in the TA, seems OK for such a small turbo (.68 AR on the turbine). Accordingly, the exhaust flange sized for the Garrett does not line up- it is about 1/2" away from the v-band. The other stuff would not be too bad, but I don't want to fool with the exhaust any more since it is coated.
Plan A is to get some quotes on getting the Garrett rebuilt, and with a T4 housing. I'm also looking into a MP T70 .96 AR for the TA while it is apart, and a similar .81 AR unit may end up being a plan B if it would replace the Garrett without any plumbing mods since they are a good deal.
The first good news of the day was finding a 1998 PCM at a JY for $110 shipped. The best news was the reinstallation of the BMW hood & having it close with no problems or conflicts. It even opened again.
Plan A is to get some quotes on getting the Garrett rebuilt, and with a T4 housing. I'm also looking into a MP T70 .96 AR for the TA while it is apart, and a similar .81 AR unit may end up being a plan B if it would replace the Garrett without any plumbing mods since they are a good deal.
The first good news of the day was finding a 1998 PCM at a JY for $110 shipped. The best news was the reinstallation of the BMW hood & having it close with no problems or conflicts. It even opened again
.
03-30-2008, 09:17 AM
#218
As a brief update, my ISP is back online again . I had sent the GT37 out to a Turbo place in Dallas Texas & they did a Majestic job of rebuilding it and converting it to a GT4088 compressor side to match the motor. It should be here next week, so I will update after it is installed.
. I had sent the GT37 out to a Turbo place in Dallas Texas & they did a Majestic job of rebuilding it and converting it to a GT4088 compressor side to match the motor. It should be here next week, so I will update after it is installed.
04-18-2008, 08:12 AM
#219
Update I am up & running with my new ISP, so far so good.
As for the BMW, it is awaiting a larger oil pump for the turbo drain- after the rebuild I had the same problem with oil leaking, albeit a lesser amount. In the meantime, my I'm enjoying using the painted and debugged Supra, the RX-7 developed a vapor lock issue, the Trans Am got a MPT70 to replace the 60-1, and the 280Z is slowly turning yellow.
As a side note, my BMW made the RockAuto monthly newsletter. I had sent in pics of the Supra, RX-7, and BMW, but the other two were not as photogenic (at the time) I suppose. Despite allegations to the contrary, I praise vendors that provide superior service.
"Your Bimmer Has WHAT Under The hood?"
My current project is installing a 2005 Chevy truck motor and T56 transmission into a 1994 BMW 525iT wagon. RockAuto has helped with many of the parts for this conversion. RockAuto carries a surprising amount of factory type parts for German cars, such as coolant tanks and sensors. I had to use a radiator from another BMW, and RockAuto had the parts that allowed me to make this conversion. In addition to the Chevy engine and transmission, this car will have a Cobra Hydroboost master cylinder, a Jeep differential flange, a Lincoln cooling fan, and Mustang turbo headers among other parts from various vehicles.
I enjoy shopping at RockAuto since with my cars I cannot go into a parts store and simply answer "What year and model car do you have?". With the way the website is constructed I can easily look up the model of the car I need parts for and find what I need. RockAuto also has far better prices on items as compared to the local parts stores. And the support before and after the sale is wonderful.
As for the BMW, it is awaiting a larger oil pump for the turbo drain- after the rebuild I had the same problem with oil leaking, albeit a lesser amount. In the meantime, my I'm enjoying using the painted and debugged Supra, the RX-7 developed a vapor lock issue, the Trans Am got a MPT70 to replace the 60-1, and the 280Z is slowly turning yellow
.As a side note, my BMW made the RockAuto monthly newsletter. I had sent in pics of the Supra, RX-7, and BMW, but the other two were not as photogenic (at the time) I suppose. Despite allegations to the contrary, I praise vendors that provide superior service.
"Your Bimmer Has WHAT Under The hood?"
My current project is installing a 2005 Chevy truck motor and T56 transmission into a 1994 BMW 525iT wagon. RockAuto has helped with many of the parts for this conversion. RockAuto carries a surprising amount of factory type parts for German cars, such as coolant tanks and sensors. I had to use a radiator from another BMW, and RockAuto had the parts that allowed me to make this conversion. In addition to the Chevy engine and transmission, this car will have a Cobra Hydroboost master cylinder, a Jeep differential flange, a Lincoln cooling fan, and Mustang turbo headers among other parts from various vehicles.
I enjoy shopping at RockAuto since with my cars I cannot go into a parts store and simply answer "What year and model car do you have?". With the way the website is constructed I can easily look up the model of the car I need parts for and find what I need. RockAuto also has far better prices on items as compared to the local parts stores. And the support before and after the sale is wonderful.
05-01-2008, 10:29 AM
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Turbo test fit/exhaust
I finished welding the passenger side header, and later today the block huggers arrived. The driver side fit in from underneath. It was a tight fit, but it actually stayed in place w/o any bolts so I could take a pic.
This is the passenger side header:
Here is the driver side sitting in place:
Looks like a 45 degree elbow under it should do the trick for lining up with a 90 degree elbow for the pipe to the crossover pipe. I purposely welded the mounting flange at a slight downward angle so the front of the turbo would be lower to keep it under the hood line. I have some leftover 3" intercooler pipe simulating the exhaust path beyond the turbo. While I was doing this, I also welded in an O2 sensor bung under the turbo flange. The driver side O2 sensor will mount in a Hedman reducer off the header. I will also add another bung in the 3" pipe past the turbo for a wideband sensor for tuning purposes.
Here are some pics of the test fitting of the GT37 turbo:
I'd think there would be a market for this type of header if someone were to make one at an affordable price (i.e. under $1200). I looked at my Supra & RX7 and I'd say it would fit either of those with the same amount of modification. I will look into adding this to the Supra at some point since it was originally planned for a turbo.
Trans tunnel & reverse light switch
The sledgehammer didn't cut it with the tunnel. I ended up using the jack from my press and widening it in two areas- the reverse light switch, and the part where the tailshaft bolts on. This worked well, although I did go through the metal in one spot, but it was a small puncture & I covered it with some more JB Weld like I did the holes from the insulation studs I removed there. On the reverse light switch, I had to partially pull out the motor & trans
but like anything else this actually gets easier the more you do it.
A side effect of this was that the trans crossmember didn't fit quite right, and I saw where the trans mount was actually hitting a part of the crossmember. I trimmed it away a little & then welded some angle to support the piece I had trimmed. I also enlarged a couple of bolt holes and it is back to being a good fit.
Once I had the switch out, I cut most of the plastic housing away and used two weather pack pins (same stuff GM uses in their harness) and bent them down at a 90 degree angle. I then crimped/soldered on a green and a brown wires (same as OEM colors) and used some heat shrink over the terminals. I then sealed them to the switch with some RTV sealant. On the other end, I used a 2 terminal weather pack connector that plugs into the GM harness. This worked out a lot better than expected. It also saves over an inch in width from the normal setup. I didn't take pics of this when I was doing it, but here is one after it is installed that shows how it fits:
Water pump outlet & taps
The CSR water pump outlet and some more metric taps came today.
I will install the outlet and then drill & tap the oil filter adapter tomorrow. I can then look into the routing of the hoses to the oil cooler. I also re-threaded the Corvette shift **** and while the T56 was down I got the BMW outer boot in place. This should look good- nearly factory- when done.
I finished welding the passenger side header, and later today the block huggers arrived. The driver side fit in from underneath. It was a tight fit, but it actually stayed in place w/o any bolts so I could take a pic.
This is the passenger side header:
Here is the driver side sitting in place:
Looks like a 45 degree elbow under it should do the trick for lining up with a 90 degree elbow for the pipe to the crossover pipe. I purposely welded the mounting flange at a slight downward angle so the front of the turbo would be lower to keep it under the hood line. I have some leftover 3" intercooler pipe simulating the exhaust path beyond the turbo. While I was doing this, I also welded in an O2 sensor bung under the turbo flange. The driver side O2 sensor will mount in a Hedman reducer off the header. I will also add another bung in the 3" pipe past the turbo for a wideband sensor for tuning purposes.
Here are some pics of the test fitting of the GT37 turbo:
I'd think there would be a market for this type of header if someone were to make one at an affordable price (i.e. under $1200). I looked at my Supra & RX7 and I'd say it would fit either of those with the same amount of modification. I will look into adding this to the Supra at some point since it was originally planned for a turbo.
Trans tunnel & reverse light switch
The sledgehammer didn't cut it with the tunnel. I ended up using the jack from my press and widening it in two areas- the reverse light switch, and the part where the tailshaft bolts on. This worked well, although I did go through the metal in one spot, but it was a small puncture & I covered it with some more JB Weld like I did the holes from the insulation studs I removed there. On the reverse light switch, I had to partially pull out the motor & trans
but like anything else this actually gets easier the more you do it. A side effect of this was that the trans crossmember didn't fit quite right, and I saw where the trans mount was actually hitting a part of the crossmember. I trimmed it away a little & then welded some angle to support the piece I had trimmed. I also enlarged a couple of bolt holes and it is back to being a good fit.
Once I had the switch out, I cut most of the plastic housing away and used two weather pack pins (same stuff GM uses in their harness) and bent them down at a 90 degree angle. I then crimped/soldered on a green and a brown wires (same as OEM colors) and used some heat shrink over the terminals. I then sealed them to the switch with some RTV sealant. On the other end, I used a 2 terminal weather pack connector that plugs into the GM harness. This worked out a lot better than expected. It also saves over an inch in width from the normal setup. I didn't take pics of this when I was doing it, but here is one after it is installed that shows how it fits:
Water pump outlet & taps
The CSR water pump outlet and some more metric taps came today.
I will install the outlet and then drill & tap the oil filter adapter tomorrow. I can then look into the routing of the hoses to the oil cooler. I also re-threaded the Corvette shift **** and while the T56 was down I got the BMW outer boot in place. This should look good- nearly factory- when done.