rao

iTrader: (18)

I am totally lost here, where dose the Stock T56 shifter come up? I wouldn't mess with all of that stuff - I only needed a small offset for mine.

Schitzo

iTrader: (6)

here is a pic from Joez. He has a ls1/t56 in his Z3. You can PM him for more details on his shifter setup and how well it works.

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

Rob-
If all goes well this won't be an issue. I'm basing my research on the 34" measurement I got from the BMW bellhousing back to the center of the shift opening, and the T56 measurement of 29.x".

Schitzo,
I'm thinking something like that would do the trick. I used a similar setup to relocate the OEM Toyota shifter back in the Supra.

I found it is better to overeducate myself on this stuff so if it needs to be done it is not so steep of a learning curve at that time.

My 317 heads & GTO pan/motor mount brackets just arrived, will do some preliminary fit testing tonight & update with pics later.

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

I spent most of the night playing around with the scrap GTO pan I got and the truck pan that came with the motor. I took 26 pics, so I won't be posting all of them in this reply.

In summary, the GTO pan would force the motor to sit too far forward. I could not use any type of fan as the tip of the waterpump would be within 1/2" of the radiator.

EDIT- Cleaning up the thread, deleting useless info. The GTO pan will not work on this application. Current planned pan is the 2008 Hummer H3 5.3L unit. The truck pan while letting the motor sit back far enough also does not let it sit low enough. The F-body & Moroso pans sump is too far forward & hits the steering center link.

Gen3Benz

iTrader: (4)

I also have a Mk VIII fan.
But everytime I add +12 to the center wire(low speed I assume?) the fan doesn't spin.
I was going to program the pcm so I could use just 2 relays but it seems my fans low speed is not working.

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

I got the ABS unit & booster/MC removed this morning. I did some braking system research and learned about something called Hydroboost. This system uses pressurized fluid from the PS pump to generate power assist for the braking system, and does away with the vacuum booster. Apparently several E32 and some E28 models used it. While doing some searching, I found this page dealing with putting a Hydroboost brake system into an E36 with an LS1 swap.

He stated at the start of the paragraph: So I knew we were in the same boat.

Further research shows my 525iT MC has a diameter of .8125 or 1.00", and the Mustang system he is using is 1.00". This is very close to the same. I checked and found the E36 (using a 1990 325i) uses a MC with a diameter of either .6875, .8125, or .9375 depending on the application.

I did some price/availability checking, and the BMW stuff is hard to find, more complex, takes up more room, and very expensive! Looks like some more Mustang parts will be under the hood! These Cobra assemblys are dirt cheap, like $50 on car-part.com, one of my favorite places to shop. It would be great if I could reuse the BMW MC, but it looks like the mounting bolts are 90 degrees off. Even if I need to get a new MC, it is only $67. I need to replumb the PS lines for the GM pump anyway.

The least costly new universal Hydroboost I found was $400.

EDIT- Cleaning up the thread, deleting useless info. The ABS unit does not need to be relocated.

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

I am looking into this, I figured as you did that one terminal was high, one low, and the third ground. My fan has + on one end, - on the other, and the center is not marked. It could be that both the + and center terminals need +12V, but I have not found a definite answer to this. I will do some testing with my fan later today & let you know what I find.

AFAIK, you have to use 3 relays for two speed fan operation. I have not seen it done with two.

rao

iTrader: (18)

I can tell you that the hydroboost works great in an e36

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

Thanks for the info Rob, I was hoping that was the case. I don't think the E34 & E36 are too different in this regard, so I'm hoping for a good outcome here as well.

Schitzo

iTrader: (6)

whats the word on the GTO mounts? Cant tell much from the photos. Are they going to work with the wide BMW crossmember?

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

It was hard to measure with them in place. They look to be around 20" or so on center (the mounting holes), the BMW rubber mounts are a lot closer, like 16". What I think could be done is to relocate the BMW mounts rearward and upward on plates, using the OEM mount holes. The GTO mounts tend to place the motor fairly high for this application.

I need to pick up another F-body pan & parts before I try another mock up since I'm running into pan clearance issues before the mounts even get close.

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

I have also been researching various oil pans. I looked at the LS2, the stock F-body, the Vette "batwing", and a couple of aftermarket pans: one from Milodon (PN 30916) and one from Moroso (PN 20140). Apparently the Tri-5 (55-57) Chevy requires a "short" sump pan similar to what I need. The Milodon pan did not have complete dimensions, however the Moroso one did. I made a scale drawing of the two pans and saved it as a JPG:


I need data on the LS2 pan. It looks like it is shallower than the F-body pan.

I measured my engine bay and found the front crossmember and steering unit are higher than the rear crossmember and swaybar. The approximate distance from the firewall to the steering unit (rearmost high spot) is 10.x". I can see the F-body pan would contact here, whereas the Moroso would not.

The main drawback to the aftermarket pans is that they do not include the oil filter fitting, you have to fab a remote filter. I want to run an oil cooler as well, so this may not be too big of a factor.

As a bonus, the Moroso pan is selling for about $200. I need to put in a call to Milodon & see if they can give me the dimensions on their pan.

BTW, I intentionally did not list this one. If you have the funds, I'm sure it is nice, but $750 for an oil pan is too much for me. That's only $100 less than I paid for the whole motor!!!

I'm working on a scale drawing of the engine bay so I can apply the data I have for the various pans.

EDIT
Here they are. As I suspected, the Moroso has clearance where needed, although probably still tight (my measurements were while crouched down in the engine bay, so they are not 100%).

F-body:


Moroso 20140:


EDIT- Cleaning up the thread, deleting useless info. None of these pans work for various reasons. Current planned pan is the 2008 Hummer H3 5.3L unit. I'll keep the pics up here for reference.

Tydriver

iTrader: (2)

Just a couple of quick comments and hopefully some useful information to add.

Comment #1:
Hydroboost came on a zillion vehicles, everyone wants to think its a Mustang only part, I refuse to admit anything Ford is going on my project so I opted for a Hydroboost unit off of an Astro Van with some 1-Ton GM truck parts sprinkled in. The Astro's/Safari's had hydroboost, and alot of the bigger Silverados/Sierras and Cargo vans dating back into the '80s. Goto ebay and just search HYDROBOOST. I am not sure if the fittings are different on the Ford equivalent or not but since you are going with the GM pump you may consider going with a GM booster... Knowing GM the threads probably haven't changed in 20+ years.

<Shameless plug #1> Here is my Album on the Hydroboost I am installing on my Typhoon : HYDROBOOST album on TURBOLS6.COM



Comment #2,
In regards to the oil pan issue.. I too have clearance issues to deal with in addition to the crossmember, I had to clear the front drive axle assembly on my Typhoon, the following is what I purchased and its intended to mount to a Gen3 motor :


Since the vendor I purchased it from isnt a site sponsor I wont post up that information so the Vendor ****'s get pissed off and delete the post but go ahead and PM me if you are interested in more information.

<shameless plug #2) Here is my album on the oil pan for my truck if you want more information just PM me: Oil Pan Album on TURBOLS6.COM

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

I was idealistic at one point in my life as far as the F**d stuff goes. I met some guys at the Turbo Mustangs forum & they were really helpful when I needed a reverse-tension idler for the Procharger I was installing on my LT4 motor. They showed me how to do it & it worked great. Now, if the parts were from a H***a, that would be a different story!

I have to admit F**d did a good job making their retro muscle car, and kept making it and even went so far as to advertise it (what a concept) and to advertise it with Steve McQueen (ultimate car guy actor IMHO) in one of the ads. It actually looks a lot like the 70's counterpart, as opposed to a 70's Toyota Celica (used to own one, first car I thought of when I saw the "new" Camaro).

The sad fact as far as the headers go is that the F**d shop will sell me a set for $500 shipped, or a hot pipe setup for $850. I have to add the LSx flanges. I couldn't find any hot pipe setups for the LSx for less than $2K, usually more like $2400.

/Back on track.

I looked at the Astro/Safari Hydroboost setups, the Mustang one was actually laid out very similar to what was on the BMW, and the bore size is the same. My PS gear is some type of metric banjo fitting, and the LSx pump uses a metric o-ring as I recall from the Supra, so the interface should not be too bad.

Nice looking oil pan! I can see it is for a truck, is it about 9" deep? I doubt I can afford to have something like that made.

*****? (big smile) I try & avoid non-sponsor info, unless it is something none of the sponsors here sell.

<Semi-related plug: I almost bought an '85 Gen 1 RX7 in Atlanta w/o motor or trans before the wagon. I was looking at adding a 4.3L motor & the turbo setup from a Sy/Ty (spelling?). The Gen 1 RX7 I built years ago with a 383 could never run cool enough to be streetable. I figured the 4.3 would not have this problem, and I could make some good power with that setup.

Tydriver

iTrader: (2)

Dont misunderstand me, I'd buy aftermarket parts for the Fords as well, I just couldnt get anything manufactured by the guys with the blue ovals, for some reason every Ford I have had was a never ending nitemare, its just my luck I guess. I dont have a problem with imports, chrysler etc, just Fords.

The comment about the LS1 flanges brings me to another comment. I am sure you are aware that GM makes very nice LS1 flanges for one off header manufacturing.. They are quite thick and nice pieces for a bargain basement price of like $14/ea (+/-) which brings me to <shameless plug #3> LS1 Flanges from GM Just look down in the 2nd row, theres a picture of them sitting on a 6.0L head casting...

I am following your conversion closely because I am finally getting motivated to work on mine again and the exhaust is the last 'challenging' part I have to tackle once I get my 4l80e back together. I have always loved the 5 Series (especially the wagon) and really wish I would have converted mine to LS1 instead of selling it. The only thing the car really lacked was acceleration.. So I am watching your conversion closely, I may decide to tackle that conversion someday.

The oil pan isnt nearly as expensive as one would think, its not the cheapest but its nowhere near that one you posted that should be gold plated for that kind of cash. Thats cool that you found a setup that works, I am confident you will love the feel and the performance of the Hydroboost brakes.. Guys in SYTY land are installing these setups like crazy on our trucks and they make a pathetic stock brake system into one that can hold 15 psi of boosted AWD launches in 10-11 second trucks. (nothing equates to the feeling of a boosted launch in an AWD platform).


The 4.3L has its issues like any other powerplant, but overheating really isnt one of them, the biggest complaint is rods,bearings, & oiling.. Really standing on the stock engine can pound the rods & bearings right out of them.. Alot of guys have run well into the 11 second range on stock motors which is impressive given the curb weight and aerodynamics of the platform. But for overall longevity go with forged rods & pistons and beat it til the cows come home..

Gen3Benz

iTrader: (4)

Why not run a e34 V8 booster setup....530 or 540.
Pushes the booster way up front and out of the way.
Like this....

Geezer's Garage

You're making great progress on your E34. Thanks for all the good info.

I was baffled at first why the GTO oil pan was moving your engine too far forward. It works perfect in my E28 and I thought the front sub-frame/cross-member and steering boxes were basically the same between an E28 and E34.

Your pix gave some clues and then I compared the side views of the two cars. BMW basically moved the front axle location a few inches forward relative to the body in the E34. That's good--it means your car will have a better balance front-to-rear but it does complicate the pan issue.

I'm guessing the hydroboost from an E28 would be close to a bolt-in. But I'll also bet you won't find a good one for the $50 you said you could find the Mustang for.

Keep up the good work--it inspires the rest of us.

The Geezer

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

Yeah, that is the setup Derek had mentioned above. The fact is I can't get the parts for that for the price of the Mustang Hydroboost ($75 for booster & MC used), and the added complexity of having another rod running through where I am planning to have pipes and other motor parts is not needed. I also am looking at that area for a CAI for the turbo.

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

Thanks for the nice words. I always post stuff like this so someone else 1 month~5 years+ down the line can use it as a reference. I know there are plenty of posts here in that time span I have used to answer questions I've had on my builds and repairs.

Baffled about an oil pan? (Sorry, had to take the stupid joke shot)

I've seen your pics & videos on your conversion, ditto.

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

I looked at mine today, and tested it with a battery and 3 leads. I found the + and center terminal perform the same. When I applied power to either, the fan ran at the same speed. When I applied power to both, there was no change in speed.

I need to find a wiring diagram for a mid 90's Lincoln MK 8 & see how it is wired there. We are probably missiong some parts.

EDIT- My fan is a single speed.