You want GM cruise control on your cable driven TB
03-26-2013, 09:07 PM
#101
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I have been working on the cruise control or lack there of for some time now. I read this thread start to finish a few times and finally got my car fixed, so I figured I would share my findings.
I had a cruise control module left over from when the car was still a 3.8. I am not sure if there is a wiring issue in the harness or the LS1 ECM is too different [or too new] but it would not work. I picked up another cruise control module circuit board out of a 1994 Camaro with the 3.4 and what do you know, works like a champ. Add that module to the list of functioning parts! Also I found a great GM site for finding parts and detailed part information that helped me cross reference - http://parts.nalleygmc.com/
To the original author; thanks a million for such an indepth thread.
I had a cruise control module left over from when the car was still a 3.8. I am not sure if there is a wiring issue in the harness or the LS1 ECM is too different [or too new] but it would not work. I picked up another cruise control module circuit board out of a 1994 Camaro with the 3.4 and what do you know, works like a champ. Add that module to the list of functioning parts! Also I found a great GM site for finding parts and detailed part information that helped me cross reference - http://parts.nalleygmc.com/
To the original author; thanks a million for such an indepth thread.
07-26-2013, 09:51 AM
#103
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late to the party I have decided that since no one has made a post with all the needed info I would give it a shot.
**Please note ** Some of this information is from other members so if it's missing things or you know of things I missed let me know. I am also a VERY bad speller so.... sorry in advance.
** I will be using 1999 F-body schematics and directly removed information from GM repair manuals so as I need to stress these are from GM and I claim no rights to these ....**
1) I personally used a 1999-up F-body cruise control module. I have a 98 ls1 setup and the 99 uses the same throttle body so the 99 cable worked perfectly!
If I had a 2000 f-body setup I would have needed the 2000-up cable however the cruise control module is the same.
2) from what I have been told the 4.3 s-10 module will work as well. I have not tried this but I don't see why it would not if the cable fits the ls1 throttle linkage and is correctly spaced for tention on the cruise cable. this should hold true for any of the later GM cruise control modules and cables. But be careful! many of the cables connect to the cruise control module in a differant fashion (3 seperate ways that I can think of from the top of my head) making it hard to just swap cables around. some of the truck 4.3 ones look like they attach just like the ls1 f-body cable so... this may work???
now lets get to the wiring!!
as you may have guessed by now all of the GM cruise modules of the later desighs look to have been wired up the same. (I have looked at alot and this seems like a standard however you will need to double check to make sure befor cooking I mean hooking up your module
)
so here we go,
Pin. Use
A ........ Cruise "ON/OFF" input from switch
B ........ Set/Coast input from switch
C ........ Resume/Accel input from switch
D ........ Normally Hot 12v from brake/clutch switch
E ........ Ground
F ........ Hot in run 12v
G ........ Normally 0v brake input (needs 12v from brake applied only!)
H ........ Cruise inhibit signal pcm control (needed depending on year make and model! 99-up f-body needs this to work unless you use a differant year cruise control)
J ......... Cruise engaged status to pcm (not needed!)
K ........ VSS from pcm/feed to cluster
right from the service manual.......
"Battery voltage is applied to terminal F of the cruise control module when the ignition switch is in the RUN position. When the slider switch is moved to the ON position, battery voltage is applied to terminal A of the cruise control module. The cruise control module needs to receive brake input voltage at one of the following terminals once each ignition cycle before allowing cruise to operate:
Terminal D
Terminal G
The brake input voltage is received at the cruise control module through the following components:
The A/C CRUISE Fuse 12
The cruise control release brake switch
The cruise control clutch switch on vehicles equipped with a manual transmission
The voltage to the cruise control module terminal D is interrupted if either of the above switches is open. Terminal G must see a ground path through the CHMSL bulb in order for the cruise to operate properly. If the brake pedal is depressed, battery voltage is present at the module terminal G. When the slider switch is moved to the RESUME/ACCEL position, battery voltage is applied to terminal C of the module. With the set switch depressed, battery voltage is present at cruise module terminal B. Cruise module connector terminal K is the speed signal terminal. During operation the voltage will oscillate between the following levels:
A high of 4 to 5 volts
A low of near ground
The cruise module ground is at module terminal E."
also would like to note that a stalk switch from the 80s-up GM cars and trucks should work. they need to be normally open type.
**Please note ** Some of this information is from other members so if it's missing things or you know of things I missed let me know. I am also a VERY bad speller so.... sorry in advance.
** I will be using 1999 F-body schematics and directly removed information from GM repair manuals so as I need to stress these are from GM and I claim no rights to these ....**
1) I personally used a 1999-up F-body cruise control module. I have a 98 ls1 setup and the 99 uses the same throttle body so the 99 cable worked perfectly!
If I had a 2000 f-body setup I would have needed the 2000-up cable however the cruise control module is the same.
2) from what I have been told the 4.3 s-10 module will work as well. I have not tried this but I don't see why it would not if the cable fits the ls1 throttle linkage and is correctly spaced for tention on the cruise cable. this should hold true for any of the later GM cruise control modules and cables. But be careful! many of the cables connect to the cruise control module in a differant fashion (3 seperate ways that I can think of from the top of my head) making it hard to just swap cables around. some of the truck 4.3 ones look like they attach just like the ls1 f-body cable so... this may work???
now lets get to the wiring!!
as you may have guessed by now all of the GM cruise modules of the later desighs look to have been wired up the same. (I have looked at alot and this seems like a standard however you will need to double check to make sure befor cooking I mean hooking up your module
)so here we go,
Pin. Use
A ........ Cruise "ON/OFF" input from switch
B ........ Set/Coast input from switch
C ........ Resume/Accel input from switch
D ........ Normally Hot 12v from brake/clutch switch
E ........ Ground
F ........ Hot in run 12v
G ........ Normally 0v brake input (needs 12v from brake applied only!)
H ........ Cruise inhibit signal pcm control (needed depending on year make and model! 99-up f-body needs this to work unless you use a differant year cruise control)
J ......... Cruise engaged status to pcm (not needed!)
K ........ VSS from pcm/feed to cluster
right from the service manual.......
"Battery voltage is applied to terminal F of the cruise control module when the ignition switch is in the RUN position. When the slider switch is moved to the ON position, battery voltage is applied to terminal A of the cruise control module. The cruise control module needs to receive brake input voltage at one of the following terminals once each ignition cycle before allowing cruise to operate:
Terminal D
Terminal G
The brake input voltage is received at the cruise control module through the following components:
The A/C CRUISE Fuse 12
The cruise control release brake switch
The cruise control clutch switch on vehicles equipped with a manual transmission
The voltage to the cruise control module terminal D is interrupted if either of the above switches is open. Terminal G must see a ground path through the CHMSL bulb in order for the cruise to operate properly. If the brake pedal is depressed, battery voltage is present at the module terminal G. When the slider switch is moved to the RESUME/ACCEL position, battery voltage is applied to terminal C of the module. With the set switch depressed, battery voltage is present at cruise module terminal B. Cruise module connector terminal K is the speed signal terminal. During operation the voltage will oscillate between the following levels:
A high of 4 to 5 volts
A low of near ground
The cruise module ground is at module terminal E."
also would like to note that a stalk switch from the 80s-up GM cars and trucks should work. they need to be normally open type.
My question is the H pin, can I safely ground this pin and keep the inhibit signal from being sent? I am also curious as to what the VSS signal looks like on an O scope. I don't think this is my problem, since I changed the VSS and my speedometer has never stopped working. I have also changed every tail light in the car and verified I have the correct OEM lamps in each socket and they are working.
Thanks in advance, any help is good help.
Last edited by racketballgod; 07-26-2013 at 10:28 AM.
07-26-2013, 10:59 AM
#104
I wouldn't ground the H terminal, just unhook it from the module. As long as it's not hooked up, the module doesn't know what kind of car it's in. Be aware though that with not having it hooked up, the car will hit the rev limiter if shifted into neutral with the cruise set since the PCM will no longer know its happened. All swaps are like this, and I've never had the urge to randomly put my car in neutral, but have tried it to verify that is what happens. Hope this helps.
07-26-2013, 02:04 PM
#105
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I wouldn't ground the H terminal, just unhook it from the module. As long as it's not hooked up, the module doesn't know what kind of car it's in. Be aware though that with not having it hooked up, the car will hit the rev limiter if shifted into neutral with the cruise set since the PCM will no longer know its happened. All swaps are like this, and I've never had the urge to randomly put my car in neutral, but have tried it to verify that is what happens. Hope this helps.
I am just trying to think of reasons this thing won't work. Every thing I check says it should, but still nothing. I really appreciate the help.
04-17-2014, 02:21 PM
#106
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Help with switch choice I'm looking at adding cruise control to my swap. I did a 2005 LM7/4l60 DBW on my 1972 Buick skylark with stock steering column. I'm shopping for a control switch and I'm seeing switches that say open circuit control and some that say closed circuit control. I believe I need the closed circuit control switch .. Can anyone help me with this...?
Here is the page link i'm looking at, particularly looking at the first switch 250-3020 states to be closed circuit. However I also like the dash mounted #250-3592 but its the one that says open circuit control
http://www.rostra.com/aftermarket-cr...-by-rostra.php
Here is the page link i'm looking at, particularly looking at the first switch 250-3020 states to be closed circuit. However I also like the dash mounted #250-3592 but its the one that says open circuit control
http://www.rostra.com/aftermarket-cr...-by-rostra.php
04-17-2014, 04:56 PM
#107
You need a 'normally open' switch. The 'closed' switch, (most aftermarket turn signal mounted) won't work unless you use several relays to reverse the switches to 'normally open. GM used a switch in the early 80's that will bolt to your column and it can be fitted with the correct switch from a later model GM vehicle and will work perfectly. I have a couple that have been redone, PM me if you're interested.
04-17-2014, 06:24 PM
#108
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You need a 'normally open' switch. The 'closed' switch, (most aftermarket turn signal mounted) won't work unless you use several relays to reverse the switches to 'normally open. GM used a switch in the early 80's that will bolt to your column and it can be fitted with the correct switch from a later model GM vehicle and will work perfectly. I have a couple that have been redone, PM me if you're interested.
04-26-2014, 08:49 AM
#110
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I am ready to tackle this cruise upgrade on my LS 78 vette swap. Anybody have a list of all the parts in one post that are required for adding cruise control. I am using a Holley ECU. I did have to add a 1 inch spacer to have enough clearance for the water pump neck. I also have a 2004R cable hooked up to TB. The mounting hole for the cruise cable is available so and will have to figure out mounting of maybe lockar makes a cruise control cable. 
05-24-2014, 01:24 PM
#111
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Pin h I don't know if this was mentioned here or not yet. If you have a later ls1 or any other box that has/requires the pin H simply ground this wire and it will allow the unit to work. I successfully did this on my buddies carbureted 383 sbc with a pro charger and a gm supermatic 4l80e controller for the vss signal. Unit works great now. Happy cruising.
12-30-2014, 06:47 PM
#112
Teching In
Got the wiring down, using the pedal switches of the BMW and a couple relays was able to mimic the GM brake and clutch pedal switches, now I just want to activate a "CRUISE" light when the cruise is engaged. Does anyone know how the "cruise" light on the dash is activated or a which one of the wires to the cruise control module could be used to activate the cruise light without affecting the cruise functionally?
Thanks in advance,
Paul
Thanks in advance,
Paul
01-01-2015, 03:15 PM
#114
Update: I spent some time with my truck and the multimeter today and figured out the "cruise engaged" light. Turns out the J terminal coming out of the module supplies a ground when the cruise is set, so all you have to do is wire your light to the J terminal on the ground, and the other side to an ignition on power source. It works PERFECTLY! It works exactly like it should, doesn't come on until you're at the speed that the cruise will set and goes off whenever the cruise is disengaged by either hitting the brake or turning it off. Also comes back on when resume button is pressed, and goes off when the coast button is pressed, but when you let off of it and the cruise engages again, the light comes right back on. 
03-21-2015, 09:40 PM
#115
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I spent some time with my truck and the multimeter today and figured out the "cruise engaged" light. Turns out the J terminal coming out of the module supplies a ground when the cruise is set, so all you have to do is wire your light to the J terminal on the ground, and the other side to an ignition on power source. It works PERFECTLY! It works exactly like it should, doesn't come on until you're at the speed that the cruise will set and goes off whenever the cruise is disengaged by either hitting the brake or turning it off. Also comes back on when resume button is pressed, and goes off when the coast button is pressed, but when you let off of it and the cruise engages again, the light comes right back on.
Jeff
04-07-2015, 12:37 PM
#117
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Update: I spent some time with my truck and the multimeter today and figured out the "cruise engaged" light. Turns out the J terminal coming out of the module supplies a ground when the cruise is set, so all you have to do is wire your light to the J terminal on the ground, and the other side to an ignition on power source. It works PERFECTLY! It works exactly like it should, doesn't come on until you're at the speed that the cruise will set and goes off whenever the cruise is disengaged by either hitting the brake or turning it off. Also comes back on when resume button is pressed, and goes off when the coast button is pressed, but when you let off of it and the cruise engages again, the light comes right back on.
Phillip
09-29-2015, 07:19 PM
#119
Cruise control Ok so I have an ls in a 87 suburban
700r Dakota digital vss
Eveything test correct well 7 of the 9 wires, how do I check ,test the vss signal an the cruise engage?
700r Dakota digital vss
Eveything test correct well 7 of the 9 wires, how do I check ,test the vss signal an the cruise engage?
09-30-2015, 08:47 AM
#120
The cruise eng as ged wire just outputs a ground signal whenever the cruise is active, it can be tested with a millimeter pretty easily. The VSS, short of hooking a speedo up to it, I dont know an easy way to check it. Is your cruise all hooked up and just not working, or are you just hooking it up and want to make sure everything is righr before trying it?