Its possible that you put the left bank of coils on the right and vice versa I think the harnesses are wired differently. Im pretty sure the pn# are different.Hope this helps. Let us know what you find.

 

I definately have my coils on right. I'm gonna have a buddy come over and do some adjusting on the carb and see what he thinks. I really need to put a wideband on it, but I can't afford one right now.

 

Carb adjustment has alot to do with it... I had issues with my setup. But it was all in the CARB for me... after a good tune... fouled some plugs... float adjustment etc... it ran good.

I later switched to the HOLLEY DP

I have no issues with the chips... in fact I can really notice a difference with any of them?? I usually leave it on the #4

 

very interested in how this turns out since i am basically doin the same in my stang!

 

? Fuel injection is the cheapest way to go, or at least I think it is the way I did it. Bought the entire engine, transmission, radiator, computer and even the a\c condensor from the same wrecked car. To go with a carb, intake and the chip set up would be an additional cost. So I do not kow how you save money with a carb setup. Now that you have it take it to a good shop (someone who races maybe). Let a pro set it up unless you have years of experience setting up a carb.

 

Well, my carb setup was cheaper and easier for me. I had a cammed 6.0 swapped into my wife's 2000 sierra. It was tuned and had all the bolt ons. When I wrecked it, the insurance only gave me permission to take the motor and the boltons. That motor needed more than just what was on the truck anyway, I needed a new intake and bigger injectors + a retune. I agree EFI was probably the better choice overall, but carb worked out better for me in a bunch of ways.

 

looks very nice too.

 

Mine is doing the same thing, where does it ask for which coils I'm using on the software???

 

i got mine running just fine using the msd box and victor jr. the only time it back fried thru the carb was when i loaded a tune to the box, then removed the negative battery cable. i think the box lost the tune. i popped in pill #1 just to get it running and that was that.

my lap top doesnt have a serial port so i have to use my desk top in the garage. my car scared the hell out of me the first time i started it. i barely turned the key and it came to life. the ls1 has been the most hastle free engine i ever built.

i dont see anything in my software about selecting the correct coils... some say ls2, ls7 coils will not work on a ls1. im running coils off of a silverado. they work just fine and were cheaper than buying car coils. you just need truck wires. no problem there. the msd wires for cars or trucks are the same price.

and yes, there is a function you can turn on in the software that will search for the best timing at idle.

 

You can get a DB9 serial adapter that plugs into a USB port for $10-$20. I use these all the time a variety of devices.

 

i have a nice iogear cable that msd recommended. its vista thats keeping it from running.

 

Keeps the MSD software from running or the serial convertor from working?

If it's the MSD software, have you tried setting that the msd .exe to run in WinXP Compatibility mode, and then running it with Run As Administrator? That's what I had to do to get SCT's xcal2 datalogging software (for my 'stang...) running on my Vista box.

If it's the USB serial adapter, did you upgrade to the latest driver from iogear.com? Looks like they released one in September that supports Vista.

For either problem, if you have an XP CD/license laying around, you could download VMWare Server (use 1.x, not the 2.0 beta stuff--2.0 sucks) for free and install XP in a virtual machine. If you have a Core2 Duo with 2G of RAM, it should run OK.

 

I am not an expert but have been messing with cars long enough to know that when you try to start a car with a carb and it backfires, it is a timing issue. Since these run off of a cam and crank sensor I would make sure you installed the cam button to button. If it is off that could be your problem since it is what is reading your timing. If it is ok I would check and make sure that all of your sensors are hooked up right and all your grounds are good. I am installing the same thing in my mustang but have an LS1 and have the software, I am not to the point of starting it yet but a friend of mine has the same setup in his LS1 camaro and works just fine. That is my .02 cents , I don't know if it will help but there it is.

 

it idles great for a few seconds and then it pops and fuel shoots everywhere...

 

ttt, what would cause the carb to shoot gas in the motor by itself? Mine pops fuel in when it pops on the secondary side...power valve?

 

anyone???

 

Try swapping the A and C wires on the cam sensor. Sounds to me like they are wired wrong.

 

http://www.msdignition.com/1softdownload.htm

theres the software.

 

sent you a pm, what exactly does this mean?

 

PM Replied, you can repost it here if you would like.