How much should one pay for a engine and trans?
Let's not forget the rods and crank on the truck motors are stronger as well...
For the price, to me, its a no brainer... Hell, you can buy a LS2 block afterwards for $750 and swap over all the parts and you'll have saved at least $3000 over trying to buy a complete LS2....
For the price, to me, its a no brainer... Hell, you can buy a LS2 block afterwards for $750 and swap over all the parts and you'll have saved at least $3000 over trying to buy a complete LS2....
Your 95% is more like 0%........
They are different, so blome. And try to stop embarrassing yourself.
Anyone who recommendes a smaller motor over a bigger one is, well.... I guess that speaks for itself.
My motor will make close to 500 hp at the rear wheels on pump gas and even with the stroker kit (all brand new Eagle and Diamond stuff), I'm into it right now for $4000. That's with the Stage II ported heads and FAST 90mm intake, NW 90mm TB, etc..
Just for those keeping score, that's LESS than what a LS2 stock assembly goes for...
They are different, so blome. And try to stop embarrassing yourself.
Anyone who recommendes a smaller motor over a bigger one is, well.... I guess that speaks for itself.
My motor will make close to 500 hp at the rear wheels on pump gas and even with the stroker kit (all brand new Eagle and Diamond stuff), I'm into it right now for $4000. That's with the Stage II ported heads and FAST 90mm intake, NW 90mm TB, etc..
Just for those keeping score, that's LESS than what a LS2 stock assembly goes for...
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix area
For my truck, I figure a 6.0 would suit it better than a LS1, although a LS1 sounds nice as well, from the pictures I've seen, the truck engines front accessory drives (alternator, compressor, ps pump, etc) may fit better than a LS1 since it is designed for a truck.
Also, I may want to really beef this thing up, and weight is no issue since I currently have Big Block 396 and Th-400, and it's a truck.
Thought about robbing the LS1 out of my Corvette, but I can't do that!
Maybe the guy at that salvage yard was just being lazy or was goofy.
Also, they had sold the A/C compressor off the engine and I told them I wanted one with a A/C compressor, so they said they would get me another one for the 2500.00 deal.
Should I go and ask if they will take $1500.00, I guess the worse thing is they say no?
This was a drive by wire engine, but did not have the drive by wire pedal or module.
Do people still like old big blocks and Th-400's?
I just want something reliable that fires up everytime,get's decent mpg, & I'm getting tired of tinkering with the carb on this truck.
Maybe I could sell my big block and TH-400 setup to offset the 6.0 & 4L60-e or 4l80-e?
Also, I may want to really beef this thing up, and weight is no issue since I currently have Big Block 396 and Th-400, and it's a truck.
Thought about robbing the LS1 out of my Corvette, but I can't do that!
Maybe the guy at that salvage yard was just being lazy or was goofy.
Also, they had sold the A/C compressor off the engine and I told them I wanted one with a A/C compressor, so they said they would get me another one for the 2500.00 deal.
Should I go and ask if they will take $1500.00, I guess the worse thing is they say no?
This was a drive by wire engine, but did not have the drive by wire pedal or module.
Do people still like old big blocks and Th-400's?
I just want something reliable that fires up everytime,get's decent mpg, & I'm getting tired of tinkering with the carb on this truck.
Maybe I could sell my big block and TH-400 setup to offset the 6.0 & 4L60-e or 4l80-e?
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, NV
Not sure but I don't think the AC will clear to stock frame. It may need a small notch...
You should be able so offset by selling the 396/TH400 for about half the price of the combo you're looking at...
List it on on your local craigslist, see what happens. Also check out www.67-72chevytrucks.com
I just put a 402BB IN my 71 Stepside and I had bought a 4L80e in a GM crate for $1500 ... The dealer price was $2800... They arent cheap but will handle anything... I decided to sell the truck to finance the Chevelle LS/T56 swap so I didn't get to install it...I'm just going to offer it with the truck ...
You should be able so offset by selling the 396/TH400 for about half the price of the combo you're looking at...
List it on on your local craigslist, see what happens. Also check out www.67-72chevytrucks.com
I just put a 402BB IN my 71 Stepside and I had bought a 4L80e in a GM crate for $1500 ... The dealer price was $2800... They arent cheap but will handle anything... I decided to sell the truck to finance the Chevelle LS/T56 swap so I didn't get to install it...I'm just going to offer it with the truck ...
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Tempe, Az.
MCMLXIX is right about notching the frame for the ac compressor. One way to avoid doing this is to get your accessory drive brackets from an LS1 Corvette. I believe the AC compressor and the alternator are both mounted up high on the Corvettes. I have built a 72 with a LS1 from a 99 Camaro and a 77 with a LQ4; I had to notch a minor amount from the passenger side frame rail to clear the compressor (not a hard process).
Check your inbox too, I sent you a PM.
Jason
Check your inbox too, I sent you a PM.
Jason
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Buying my first engine. With all the previous info I guess I can go ahead and get a big deal on an engine.
Here are some fo the options they have offered me. Please let me know which should I buy.
1- Silverado 6.0L LQ9, 2005, 57K, all accesories, no trans: $2200, +$600 with auto trans.
2- Vortec 6.0L, 2003, 112K, all acesories, no trans: $1650
If you have any 6.0L LQ9 that you would like to sell let me know.
Here are some fo the options they have offered me. Please let me know which should I buy.
1- Silverado 6.0L LQ9, 2005, 57K, all accesories, no trans: $2200, +$600 with auto trans.
2- Vortec 6.0L, 2003, 112K, all acesories, no trans: $1650
If you have any 6.0L LQ9 that you would like to sell let me know.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Let's not forget the rods and crank on the truck motors are stronger as well...
For the price, to me, its a no brainer... Hell, you can buy a LS2 block afterwards for $750 and swap over all the parts and you'll have saved at least $3000 over trying to buy a complete LS2....
For the price, to me, its a no brainer... Hell, you can buy a LS2 block afterwards for $750 and swap over all the parts and you'll have saved at least $3000 over trying to buy a complete LS2....
Will all the LQ9 parts fit in the LS2 block??
I belive the LQ9 connecting rods are longer than the LS2s??
I really would like to do that!!
They're both 6L.......... Same block, just different metals... Just make sure you get the reluctor ring year(s) correct.... After 03' (I believe) motors used a reluctor ring with more teeth than 03' and older.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Just to throw a couple opinions in here:
1. WHY do you guys care about the iron block strength? The aluminum LS1 block can (and has) taken well over 1000hp with no issues. Are any of you guys in this thread making that much power? Not trying to be a dick, I'm just curious. I would ALWAYS run an aluminum block over the iron.
2. The stock LS1 Crank has made over 1000hp as well. There are no strength issues at all with it.
3. Dropping weight is exactly the same thing as adding horsepower.
Now, after saying all that, I will admit that "Cheap is a quality which overcomes many faults". If the 6.0 was truly a lot cheaper than an LS1, I may consider it over one, but I don't think it is at anymore? I have a buddy selling a complete great running, low milage LS1 for $850, so how much cheaper could a 6.0 be?
Also, can the TBSS accessories be used in these swaps?
Just my opinion.
1. WHY do you guys care about the iron block strength? The aluminum LS1 block can (and has) taken well over 1000hp with no issues. Are any of you guys in this thread making that much power? Not trying to be a dick, I'm just curious. I would ALWAYS run an aluminum block over the iron.
2. The stock LS1 Crank has made over 1000hp as well. There are no strength issues at all with it.
3. Dropping weight is exactly the same thing as adding horsepower.
Now, after saying all that, I will admit that "Cheap is a quality which overcomes many faults". If the 6.0 was truly a lot cheaper than an LS1, I may consider it over one, but I don't think it is at anymore? I have a buddy selling a complete great running, low milage LS1 for $850, so how much cheaper could a 6.0 be?
Also, can the TBSS accessories be used in these swaps?
Just my opinion.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Just to throw a couple opinions in here:
1. WHY do you guys care about the iron block strength? The aluminum LS1 block can (and has) taken well over 1000hp with no issues. Are any of you guys in this thread making that much power? Not trying to be a dick, I'm just curious. I would ALWAYS run an aluminum block over the iron.
2. The stock LS1 Crank has made over 1000hp as well. There are no strength issues at all with it.
3. Dropping weight is exactly the same thing as adding horsepower.
Now, after saying all that, I will admit that "Cheap is a quality which overcomes many faults". If the 6.0 was truly a lot cheaper than an LS1, I may consider it over one, but I don't think it is at anymore? I have a buddy selling a complete great running, low milage LS1 for $850, so how much cheaper could a 6.0 be?
Also, can the TBSS accessories be used in these swaps?
Just my opinion.
1. WHY do you guys care about the iron block strength? The aluminum LS1 block can (and has) taken well over 1000hp with no issues. Are any of you guys in this thread making that much power? Not trying to be a dick, I'm just curious. I would ALWAYS run an aluminum block over the iron.
2. The stock LS1 Crank has made over 1000hp as well. There are no strength issues at all with it.
3. Dropping weight is exactly the same thing as adding horsepower.
Now, after saying all that, I will admit that "Cheap is a quality which overcomes many faults". If the 6.0 was truly a lot cheaper than an LS1, I may consider it over one, but I don't think it is at anymore? I have a buddy selling a complete great running, low milage LS1 for $850, so how much cheaper could a 6.0 be?
Also, can the TBSS accessories be used in these swaps?
Just my opinion.
Also, to anyone who knows anything about racing, 1000h with nitrous is completely different than 1000hp with a turbo..
Be careful about HP ratings.
Also, under boost and in racing conditions overall, the aluminum blocks and heads usually expand and contract at different rates, which usually end up in coolant leakage problems.
Be careful about HP ratings.
Also, under boost and in racing conditions overall, the aluminum blocks and heads usually expand and contract at different rates, which usually end up in coolant leakage problems.
Also, to anyone who knows anything about racing, 1000h with nitrous is completely different than 1000hp with a turbo..
Be careful about HP ratings.
Also, under boost and in racing conditions overall, the aluminum blocks and heads usually expand and contract at different rates, which usually end up in coolant leakage problems.
Be careful about HP ratings.
Also, under boost and in racing conditions overall, the aluminum blocks and heads usually expand and contract at different rates, which usually end up in coolant leakage problems.
Not sure if I "know anything about racing" compared to you with that crazy 10.0 car, but I know a lot of people running LS1 cars with nitrous or turbos, and haven't seen any issues with the aluminum block.
Also, please remember, these are production car blocks, and have been proven to go hundreds of thousands of miles without issue.
My point is only that IMO the only advantage the iron motor has is COST, and even that is debatable because of the price of LS1 stuff coming down so much.
