How much should one pay for a engine and trans?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix area
How much should one pay for a engine and trans? I found a local wrecking yard with a 6.0 and 4L80-E attached, all wiring, computer, etc.
They do not know what year it is, or how many miles it has, they said it runs.
They told me $2500.00, is that to much money?
They also have a 4.8 with 4l60-E, and 5.3 with 4L60-e, also 2500.00 each.
This would be going in a 1965 Chevy truck
They do not know what year it is, or how many miles it has, they said it runs.
They told me $2500.00, is that to much money?
They also have a 4.8 with 4l60-E, and 5.3 with 4L60-e, also 2500.00 each.
This would be going in a 1965 Chevy truck
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma City metro
I smell a rat.
Legitimate salvage facilities are supposed to keep the VIN on file for major components. That would tell them at least the year, and with a little effort, could give some indication of miles based on either a Carfax, GM service/warranty records, or possibly state inspections if applicable.
As to price, I'd say anytime you're dealing with a questionable seller, it's too much, whatever the price is.
I smell a rat.
Legitimate salvage facilities are supposed to keep the VIN on file for major components. That would tell them at least the year, and with a little effort, could give some indication of miles based on either a Carfax, GM service/warranty records, or possibly state inspections if applicable.
As to price, I'd say anytime you're dealing with a questionable seller, it's too much, whatever the price is.
Legitimate salvage facilities are supposed to keep the VIN on file for major components. That would tell them at least the year, and with a little effort, could give some indication of miles based on either a Carfax, GM service/warranty records, or possibly state inspections if applicable.
As to price, I'd say anytime you're dealing with a questionable seller, it's too much, whatever the price is.
I agree any salvage yard should have all that information on hand and if by chance they dont should be able to find out with reasonable ease. You might do some research yourself, find a casting number off the block or somewhere and call a gm dealer and see if they can help you out.
As for price, it really depends on year and mileage.
Just for reference I payed $3,000 for pretty much the same thing as you described with some more stuff like downpipes, intake tract and DBW setup. My motor is an 03 and had 33k miles verified.
I paid $1500 for my LQ9 with 50K miles on it and $300 for my 4L60E (needing a rebild).
I had a complete low milage LQ4 for sale a couple of weeks agao for $1400 and no one here wanted it.
I had a complete low milage LQ4 for sale a couple of weeks agao for $1400 and no one here wanted it.
Trending Topics
Imo 2500 is to much for a 6.0 auto setup. I would say 2000 is more like it. Many people have paid 2500 for ls1 with autos complete and a bit more for 6 speeds. 6.0 are worth less than an ls1.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo As far as power wise the ls1 is better. The 6.0 may be better as far as if you are going to upgrade because of the iron block. The ls1 makes more power and is lighter. In stock for side by side ls1 is better. I would like to know yor arguement on this. Josh
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
From: the great us of a
i just payed 4500 for a 2001 ls1 out of a z but i got everything from oil pan to intake and fans, rad, wiring, cumputer and the 4L60. a lot of stuff. i still feel i payed to much but the car just came into the junk yard and i was the first to take anything off of it. i am about to start my swap.
Lq9 I was refferring to comparing the LS1 and LQ4 btw, the LQ9 and the LS1 would be very similar in power, and the LQ9 weighs more as well. There are many pros and cons to both motor, one of the bigger ones is usually price, which we all know one can usually find a used LQ4/9 for cheaper than an overpriced LS1 motor, though the power is about the same on the LQ9 and LS1.
Let's not forget the rods and crank on the truck motors are stronger as well...
For the price, to me, its a no brainer... Hell, you can buy a LS2 block afterwards for $750 and swap over all the parts and you'll have saved at least $3000 over trying to buy a complete LS2....
For the price, to me, its a no brainer... Hell, you can buy a LS2 block afterwards for $750 and swap over all the parts and you'll have saved at least $3000 over trying to buy a complete LS2....
How much difference in HP really? .6 compression difference between LQ4 and 9.We know what the factory difference claims.Also the smaller cubed engine could edge the LQ4 in HP the larger cubed engine will out pull in TQ
knowing what i know now (which isnt much) and was going with an ls motor, i would prob go for a motor/trans, and all the wiring, computer, etc-i paid 1k for an lq4, its in good shape, but now trying to get wiring, computer, trans (i have an older 4l80e, doest have top bolt hole, block is not drilled for hole below top one, older 4l80e'd might need adapter for flywheel) i might as well be working on a foreign engine, or should have built a 489 b/b, man, so much to try and learn (relearn)
