where to get a balancer installer
Be carefull on using a longer bolt as a installer. Use a few washer and a lot of grease if you do.
A long threaded rod or bolt with a Nut and washers would be better that just a longer bolt.
I have read thread of bolts breaking, stripping thread and that the long bolt cause incorrect Torque sittings. But then again, many have successfully use the Longer bolt without any problems... just something to consider.
If not there are many manufactors of the installer tool, rental place have them, Autozone, Kragne an other rents or sells them. I used the Snap-on tool, worked much better than the long bolt.
I always say, use the right to for the right jobs and you will not have problem or have to do it again..
A long threaded rod or bolt with a Nut and washers would be better that just a longer bolt.
I have read thread of bolts breaking, stripping thread and that the long bolt cause incorrect Torque sittings. But then again, many have successfully use the Longer bolt without any problems... just something to consider.
If not there are many manufactors of the installer tool, rental place have them, Autozone, Kragne an other rents or sells them. I used the Snap-on tool, worked much better than the long bolt.
I always say, use the right to for the right jobs and you will not have problem or have to do it again..
TECH Resident
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 792
Likes: 2
From: SoCal
Since my motor was on a stand, I thought I'd try the simple method first, and it worked out just fine. Put the balancer in a 200 degree oven for 30 minutes. It nearly slipped right on; gentle tapping using a wooden block fully seated it the last 1/4". Yes, do grease the crank first.
Andys
Andys
dont use your bolt. a long threaded rod is a better oftion. Here is another way to go
Balancer install tool
Balancer install tool
Wooden block method is fine. I have done it multiple times at the shop and used it for years on small blocks. you just have to use a little common sense when you do it. Stop when it bottoms out and all is well.
Word of warning... using the wooden block or any other banging on the balancer can result in clearance issue with the crank thrush clearance.
In assembling a motor of anytype and checking the clearance of the crank, tapping on the end of the crank is used to add clearance as needed. It doesn't take much to add a few .001". Results could be early failure in wear and lower oil pressure and a few other unwanted items. Yes, they may be very mininum in HP lost, but why lost any if you don't have too.
In most case it is small but for those who do value every bit of power and perfection.. it is a lot. Any yes.. people have been doing it for ages.. (I too have done it on daily driver type of engine, but will not do so on my performance engines
Just use the correct tool for the job.
In assembling a motor of anytype and checking the clearance of the crank, tapping on the end of the crank is used to add clearance as needed. It doesn't take much to add a few .001". Results could be early failure in wear and lower oil pressure and a few other unwanted items. Yes, they may be very mininum in HP lost, but why lost any if you don't have too.
In most case it is small but for those who do value every bit of power and perfection.. it is a lot. Any yes.. people have been doing it for ages.. (I too have done it on daily driver type of engine, but will not do so on my performance engines
Just use the correct tool for the job.
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TECH Resident
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 792
Likes: 2
From: SoCal
I'm never one to make statements of finality (I don't know everything about everything), but I've never seen or heard of anyone tap the end of the crank to add end play clearance "as needed." End play must be machined/ground in correctly. Nor have I heard that some gentle tapping would create an issue; think about the countless numbers of pilot bearings that have been installed by not so gentle tapping.
Andy1
Andy1
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