LSX oil pans
#662
poweredbyace monza/vega ls oil pan modifiication kit
This pan modification kit was developed to install an ls engine into a vega/monza but may be of use in other applications
http://www.powerbyace.com/Technical%...20P%20mods.htm
Accompanying mounts and headers are available
http://www.powerbyace.com/index.htm
http://www.powerbyace.com/Technical%...20P%20mods.htm
Accompanying mounts and headers are available
http://www.powerbyace.com/index.htm
#664
Installed the Moroso 20141 pan with remote oil filter. I had to cut about 1/4" off of the drivers side steering rack mount. Once I have the motor out for the swap I will clean up the cut. Other than that it fits great with plenty of clearance. I have a BMR k-member and the headers are 1-7/8" Kooks. I will be using an aftermarket bellhousing with my T-56 so there will be no open area to the flywheel as with the stock unit in the pictures.
#665
I ended up ditching the 302-2 pan in favor of the 302-1 pan. The 302-1 casting and machining is much better and it fits the 66 a-body cars just fine. With the advent of the hybrid cv driveshaft, these motors can live just fine higher in the car.
Word to Holley...when I installed the pan, I elected to bolt the bellhousing to the motor and then bolt the pan up. This proved to be a wise idea because when I removed the bell I noticed that the pan was not flush with the back of the block surface. Also, I used the Holley o-ring only because the factory o-ring was thicker and it appeared that this may take more effort with the oil pump screw to tighten. I would suggest modifying your pickup tube to accept the factory o-ring and the factory hardware. The GM oring is more pliable and the factory hardware is longer. Also...your trap door assembly for the 302-1 pan does not fit. I had to trim about 1/8" off the bottom of it so that it would fit.
Word to Holley...when I installed the pan, I elected to bolt the bellhousing to the motor and then bolt the pan up. This proved to be a wise idea because when I removed the bell I noticed that the pan was not flush with the back of the block surface. Also, I used the Holley o-ring only because the factory o-ring was thicker and it appeared that this may take more effort with the oil pump screw to tighten. I would suggest modifying your pickup tube to accept the factory o-ring and the factory hardware. The GM oring is more pliable and the factory hardware is longer. Also...your trap door assembly for the 302-1 pan does not fit. I had to trim about 1/8" off the bottom of it so that it would fit.
#666
I started reading the threads, but after page something or another, I kind of gave up. I need the shallowest pan available. So far, it looks to be the LS2/LS3 Corvette pan at 5". This still falls below the frame by about 1/2", but I can use it.
Has an type of pan with 4.5" depth come out yet from anybody? The batwing pan will not fit between the frame rails unfortunately as it looks to be about 1/4" shorter.
Any help is appreciated.
Has an type of pan with 4.5" depth come out yet from anybody? The batwing pan will not fit between the frame rails unfortunately as it looks to be about 1/4" shorter.
Any help is appreciated.
#667
So im still confused is it worth ordering the holley pan n if so witch one the 302-1 or 302-2. Or can someone recommend wat pan is good for A-bodies? Ive read the cts pan is good but off of wat year? Dont want a steel stamped one
#668
Russ Kemp
#670
The 302-2 is the only pan to use in an A-body. I used it on a LS3 swap into a 1968 Chevelle a couple of months ago. It allows the engine to be mounted as low as possible to have the correct driveline angle, better trans tunnel clearance (no mods for a 4L50E) and no tie rod interference.
Russ Kemp
Russ Kemp
#672
Russ kemp
#673
Pan sizes-302-1 302-2
#675
I won't be the first with dimensions. But check out the steel bolt-on sump in a 2014 LT_ truck engine. It may be a viable passenger car pan with a new shorter sump?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...d-i-score.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...d-i-score.html
#676
Some might find this A body info handy for the 64-72 folks.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=717386
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=717386
#679
If you are capable of welding aluminum, or know someone who can, you can modify the Holley 302-2 pan to work with a 4" stroke crank by fabricating a little clearance tray out of 1/4" sheet aluminum and welding it into a window cut into the pan just below the front crank throw. A guy here at Holley has done this for use on his own project car and it works like a champ.