manman

iTrader: (3)

I thought I finally might share this tid bit of information. If you want to make your powersteering connections look really nice and hook them up cheaply here is how.... first you cut the orginiall powersteering tubing not too short but you dont want it to stick out past the head of the original fitting. then you clean the top of the fitting up buy 2 weld on 6 an fittings weld each fitting to each of the orignial fittings ( you will have enough room for 2 90 degree an fittings) buy some russell powersteering line and 2 90 degree fittings for it. one for rack side and one for the pump side. Buy the fitting for the pump 16x w/e it was with the 6an connection then bam you have the pressure side line. next for the return hose (if you keep the orignal powersteering cooler, ie the one top radiator hose) get another 90 degree an fitting run it to the cooler, take out the hose fitting and replace with a threaded/ an fitting not sure what size i conveiently had one handy. then run the rest of the return ( like the other 10 inches with regular hose) back into the resivoer or you could run it into a aftermarket cooler etc etc... Its cheap and it doesnt leak as long as you can weld decent. I mig welded the an fittings to the steering fittings so you dont need to tig weld them. I m not gonna lie its already tight down there and this makes it a bit tighter but I can get a wrench on both fittings to tighten and loosen them from the underside no problem. heres a pitcher kind of illustrating the setup...



I saw people trying to solve this problem eariler and I thought this out a while back when I did mine so I figured Id share.

all in all It cost me less than $50. And it looks top notch/ very professional.

mikespeed95

iTrader: (1)

if your drifting it the wieght distribution doesnt seem to matter that much, and either way you'll end up having fun.

also cars with more forward wieght understeer, they dont tend to spin out they push really bad.

LS240sx

iTrader: (12)

Hmm Ive found lighter rears to over steer. Example my truck is very touchy and will over steer easy because of the most weight being up front. Ive found cars like MR2s to be under steer beasts cause they cant plant the front tires.

LS240sx

iTrader: (12)

In all truth thats a good idea but I found the easiest way was take the factory LS1 lines and 240 lines cut on the hard line area on the rack side and pump side. Take these into a Hydraulic place as for them to be braised with what ever AN fitting you want and get a steel braided or what ever high pressure line made in between.

Cost $16 depending on your store but our store is super cheap and has great quality fittings and lines.

Spoolin

iTrader: (8)

Well I spent 3 hours today tooling around in the engine bay disconnecting, dismatling and destroying anything that was in my way. I hacked up the exhaust system in order to remove it. Most of the bolts had seized making it impossible to disconnect the headers from the rest of the exhaust.
Pretty sure I have everything disconnected so it shouldn't be too long before the engine goes clunk on my driveway, been working alot so I haven't had much time for the car. I'll get pictures up on monday when I get home from work.

Spoolin

iTrader: (8)

Am I gonna have to drop the cross-member in order to get the engine out from the bottom or will the engine and tranny slide out in between the cross-member and firewall?

mikespeed95

iTrader: (1)

theres a big difference between what happens when you stomp on the gas pedal at 20 mph in the rain and your flying around a corner at 100mph at the limits of all four tires. whichever tires have more force acting against them (aka whichever end is heavier) are the ones to give, ala if you have all the wieght in the front it will push, if you have it in the rear it will wanna slide out.

also as the former owner of an mr2, if you were having understeer problems with an mr2, that is 100% understeer issues with user error.

this isnt intended to be a flame, just this is all 1st hand experience, besides the zillions of things ive driven, after tracking an el camino, drifting it bla bla bla and owning an mr2 and stuff...plus its just physics.

mikespeed95

iTrader: (1)

this is an amazing amount of overcomplication.

the return line just get some fuel hose, and clamp it on. works fine.

on the pressure side just take the nissan line, take the chevy line, take them to a hydraulic place and have them connected. very simple.

manman

iTrader: (3)

meh wasnt hard at all. took me about five minutes since I had everything already. To each his own I guess.

mikespeed95

iTrader: (1)

took you five minutes to clean/weld/let cool off/make AN line?!? thats amazing!

it took me five minutes to take a razorblad, cut a line, spray wd40 on both ends, slide on, then tighten down my hose clamps.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

From the standpoint of handling though having the transaxle in the rear would help have the weight be further away from the center of gravity of the car for the rear and in turn create more polar moment of inertia for the rear of the car and make it so that if the back end does step out it won't be as quickly. From a racing standpoint some like that for it makes the car more predictable and also you don't have to be as fast in saving it and sometimes that can be the difference between losing it and spinning and you just losing some time on the corner and having to recover.

Now for drifting and also from a cost standpoint I figured having the T56 where it is hooked right up to the LS1 would be just fine for it's part of where the extra weight gets added to the car in the swap since the tranny weighs like, just going from memory here, 40 lbs more than the stock 5 spd and it's pretty close to where the COG is in the car so whie it does add weight to the front of the car it's also putting more of the weight towards the center of the car as well. That in turn will creat less polar moment of inertia for the back of the car and it will kick out quicker and that will just give me more of a handful when I'm learing how to drift the car though but that's half the fun isn't it? I also hope with some tuning in the suspension settings deparment and some tuneable sway bars that the car and be tuned to my liking and hopefully tune out some of the understeer but time will tell if that will be the case or not.

I also don't like the idea of a transaxle for if you take out the stock rear end you are messing with how the car is set up and for me personally the stock rear end geometry of the 240SX seems like it's very well suited for drifting and I personally wouldn't want to affect that. If you just use the transaxle and find a way to use the half shafts from the 240SX and adapt them to the C5 transaxle, well now you are talking custom parts and for me, if I break something and I'm at a meet I'd like to be able to just go and buy it or if a friend has a car like mine be able to swap.

If you swap in the rear end of a C5 and use it's suspension I don't know how it's going to chive with the front... like is the front anti-squat and the rear is set to be neutral, how is the C5 rear suspension etc... a lot of homework would have to be done to know if that would work or not.

Different ways to do it, just comes down to preference and what you are wanting is how I see it. Oh, and also, how big is your pocketbook!

brewster240

iTrader: (1)

you can sell that engine, put parts on ebay
sell the seats, and pretty much any interior parts yo dont want will sell.
take the auto trans to the scrap yard.

Spoolin

iTrader: (8)

Well, after reading all the feedback about going the transaxle route I think I'm just gonna do the T56 swap. Lot's of things to consider that I hadn't even thought about so I'll stick to what's proven to work and then go from there. Well this just got a whole lot simpler!

Spoolin

iTrader: (8)

So my buddy who's helping me build this car has some shorty edelbrock headers. Would these work on the driver's side with the stearing shaft problem? I assume I'm gonna have to do a little banging to get it to fit in from what most people have indicated. Would I be better off keeping the stock truck manifolds or get these shorties and do a little BFH "mod" to them?

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

If I recall correctly the stock truck manifolds will exit towards the rear and normally the collectors or the way the exhaust is routed is either blocked by the steering shaft or the rack itself depending on where the motor is and what manifold or header you are running. There's also the issue of how close the steering shaft and rack are to the LS1 a well and in most casese the different headers and manifolds I would try didn't have a lot of room to snake by because the shaft was sort of in the middle between the frame and the engine. That rear steer set-up just makes it a beotch when doing exhaust on that side of the engine.

In regards to the shorty headers, again, most like you'll need to cut and weld rather than banging for there really isn't any banging you can do to the rack, steering shaft, frame rail (maybe a little but not a lot), or the LS1 block for that matter. Just making some guesses here for there wasn't anything off the shelf that was close to fitting manifold wise that I found except for the C5 steel manifolds but even them still had to be cut and welded to work.

HTH!

speedworxs

couldn't you just 'install' the corvette transaxle as you would the nissan differential? don't play with the subframes if possible just mount the tranny in place of the diff, and you won't have(shouldn't) to worry about affecting the suspension angle and such. just line up the half-shaft location for where to mount the transaxle.
just an idea, i could be way wrong

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

Lets say you did that... although I'm guessing you'd have to modify the subframe to fit the transaxle you are still not going to just be able to bolt up the stock 240 half shafts so you'd have to find a way to adapt them and that, for me at least, is a concern for if I break something while I'm at an event or something of that such I'd like to be able to just go to an auto parts place and just buy the part instead of having to go home and figure out how to fix the custom part. That is unless you get lukcy and it does just bolt up or you found common parts to use to do it but most times that's not the case though but I too may be wrong.

Just not worth the extra work in my opinion, if I were to go do those lenghts to make a car handle well I would have just said the heck with it and got a flooded C5, stripped it down and made that into a race car instead. The only problem is to just get a flooded C5, at least when I was looking around, cost more than I have in my swap project right now so money was the issue for me in doing that.

Spoolin

iTrader: (8)

So I got my head under the hood today and I realized something...I need better tools!!
I broke two screw driver's and a 12mm socket. I also can't continue until I get a set of metric deep sockets.
Kinda frustrating and difficult working on a car without proper tools. So here's a few questions until I run to Sears and get me a better set of tools...

Can I pull the fuse box and trash it or do I need to keep it?


Is this the condensor for the A/C?? If so I think I can keep it but if it isn't, what is it and can I throw it out too?


Power steering pump, keep it or trash it?


A/C compressor...trash it?


Oh yeah...what is this? Looks like a condenser but not sure, throw it away?


AND...Found out what happened to the engine!! Looks like a rod is sticking out the oil pan...



YUP looks about right to me


Here's the underside, I'm gonna drop everthing from the struts on down, have it come down as one big piece.


No more gear shifting

SirWarrior

Second pic: thats charcoal container for fuel fumes.

PS - sell it

5th pic - part of AC system.
Are you planning on keeping AC? If you do, I beleive only the compressor changes and lines get fab up to fit.

Spoolin

iTrader: (8)

I'd like to keep the A/C so I'm gonna leave all the A/C lines and I understand I can reuse the condenser too...just wondering which canister it is! (guess it's the white one?)