BMW e36 (LSX) project starting point
I'm working on an e30 swap. Does anyone have any info on this other then the thread that has already been mentioned? Any reason why one of the developed steering racks wouldn't work for the e30 as well? What about a drive shaft? Are you guys making your own? What would you recommend I do here? Engine mounts, can I use any of the mounts developed for the e36? Thanks, sorry for the somewhat thread jack.
I put a 5.3L Vortec ( LS1 ) in my e30. I did all the fabricating myself, and yes you have to get a driveshaft made. Im not sure on the motor mounts, it was just easy to make my own. If you have a welder and can get metal, just do your own. My exhaust as of right now my drivers side wraps over to my passengers side, and out the back with 3" straight pipe. I will eventually probaly do some block huggers, and redo my steering rack. The e30 is a bit smaller then the E36 body so theres more customization that needs to be done



Once more of BMW LS1 guys get their cars up and going you should sign up for the Ultimate Track Car Challenge (and you are guaranteed Grassroots Motorsports magazine coverage). We just got back form this year's event at Buttonwillow, CA and the car was a huge success. Next year its on the east coast... hope to see some of you guys there! Rao, Monger, Thaniel... you have the perfect cars!
edit: Mateo, there is zero reason for the turbo unless you just want to be a pimp. You can make more power N.A. with an LS1 than you could ever fully utilize. Turbo is going to be difficult to package, but if you have enough money anything is possible. The engine layout may need to change to fit everything - so talk to the shop doing the turbo install before you do your LS1 install. Good luck.
Interesting:
1. A turbo (or turbos) needs space, adds weight, lots of heat (owww, feet on fire!) new head gaskets, etc and gives another 125hp or so, with associated lag -- don't even think about a variable vane turbo -- think about the $$$ to get the huffer installed and working.
2. An LSx engine with new heads, cam and intake: no space needed, no extra weight, complexity, adds 125hp for less $$ and just a weekend to do.
1. A turbo (or turbos) needs space, adds weight, lots of heat (owww, feet on fire!) new head gaskets, etc and gives another 125hp or so, with associated lag -- don't even think about a variable vane turbo -- think about the $$$ to get the huffer installed and working.
2. An LSx engine with new heads, cam and intake: no space needed, no extra weight, complexity, adds 125hp for less $$ and just a weekend to do.
Yes.... what do they say? Imitation is the biggest form of flattery? He sure went to a lotta work to make the motor mounts that he could have bought from us. Oh well, some people have way more time than money.

My mounts are very different in size and mounting, very similar in engine placement if not a c-hair closer to the passenger side. Either way, none of us are pioneers here in sticking a small block in a car that it doesn't belong. you can say that my mounts may be "inspired" by the Vorshlag kit, however they are far from being "copied" from anyone. I was actually waiting on Vorshlag to release their kit, and decided to get crackin on making my own "kit" when theirs was delayed. No offense to Vorshlag or anyone else for that matter, I have heard nothing but good things about their kit. BUT, it all worked out in the end for me so no worries. In case anyone is wondering, I have about 60 hours into just those motor mounts and my rear cross member, so I would recommend buying them from Vorshlag if I were you

On another note, I have taken on the task of making an adapter to bolt up the chevy driveshaft to the M3 rear....I have finished my little adapter and was pleasantly surprised to find that the camaro driveshaft is almost a perfect fit. If I have the yoke slip into the T56 tailshaft all the way in, it looks like I need to extend the camaro driveshaft by approximately 2 inches....however if I slide the yoke out slightly and slide back to bolt the shaft onto the m3 rear flange, it will bolt up. the question is, what is the ideal length that the yoke needs to go into the trans? that will have a big impact on how much I lengthen that driveshaft....
On another note, I have taken on the task of making an adapter to bolt up the chevy driveshaft to the M3 rear....I have finished my little adapter and was pleasantly surprised to find that the camaro driveshaft is almost a perfect fit. If I have the yoke slip into the T56 tailshaft all the way in, it looks like I need to extend the camaro driveshaft by approximately 2 inches....however if I slide the yoke out slightly and slide back to bolt the shaft onto the m3 rear flange, it will bolt up. the question is, what is the ideal length that the yoke needs to go into the trans? that will have a big impact on how much I lengthen that driveshaft....
if anyone cares, the local driveshaft shop recommends the yoke stick out of the tailhousing by 7/8" check out my pimp adapter


haha good idea.
It seems like it would be possible for someone to use headers that don't require modification of the ABS OR the steering shaft. This would be idea for a number of reasons but mostly that it would be loads cheaper.
Does anyone have/can anyone take better pictures of the clearance between the steering shaft and block?
This is the only decent one I can find :
By looking at that picture, it seems that it would be possible to route all the exhaust piping toward the block and subsequently maintain the stock steering shaft and ABS.
Anyway, more pics would be helpful. I'll buy a foam block and if I can get headers to work they way I want them to, I could possibly make some more...
It seems like it would be possible for someone to use headers that don't require modification of the ABS OR the steering shaft. This would be idea for a number of reasons but mostly that it would be loads cheaper.
Does anyone have/can anyone take better pictures of the clearance between the steering shaft and block?
This is the only decent one I can find :

By looking at that picture, it seems that it would be possible to route all the exhaust piping toward the block and subsequently maintain the stock steering shaft and ABS.
Anyway, more pics would be helpful. I'll buy a foam block and if I can get headers to work they way I want them to, I could possibly make some more...
real estate in that area is real scarce, I wish you luck.
I'll tell you right now, that the steering shaft pretty much goes thru the most inconvenient place it could possibly go! I could probably have gotten away with leaving the abs where it was, or bringing it up a bit higher like New Age does....but that would have cockblocked my little contraption for my support bearing / sidewinder steering shaft. next one I'll do I'll incorprate that bracket to have a mounting on top for the abs unit....
I'll tell you right now, that the steering shaft pretty much goes thru the most inconvenient place it could possibly go! I could probably have gotten away with leaving the abs where it was, or bringing it up a bit higher like New Age does....but that would have cockblocked my little contraption for my support bearing / sidewinder steering shaft. next one I'll do I'll incorprate that bracket to have a mounting on top for the abs unit.... Yes.... what do they say? Imitation is the biggest form of flattery? He sure went to a lotta work to make the motor mounts that he could have bought from us. Oh well, some people have way more time than money. 
The only areas we've added heat shielding is around the exhaust near the plastic fuel tank and around some of the spark plug boots. After racing our Alpha car for 1.5 years we've had no heat issues underhood yet. The car gets autocrossed or open tracked 2-4 times every month with 2-3 drivers each time, and street driven occasionally too. And we still have a stock BMW 6 cyl radiator and only the a/c aux fan cooling it. Working great.

Once more of BMW LS1 guys get their cars up and going you should sign up for the Ultimate Track Car Challenge (and you are guaranteed Grassroots Motorsports magazine coverage). We just got back form this year's event at Buttonwillow, CA and the car was a huge success. Next year its on the east coast... hope to see some of you guys there! Rao, Monger, Thaniel... you have the perfect cars!
edit: Mateo, there is zero reason for the turbo unless you just want to be a pimp. You can make more power N.A. with an LS1 than you could ever fully utilize. Turbo is going to be difficult to package, but if you have enough money anything is possible. The engine layout may need to change to fit everything - so talk to the shop doing the turbo install before you do your LS1 install. Good luck.

The only areas we've added heat shielding is around the exhaust near the plastic fuel tank and around some of the spark plug boots. After racing our Alpha car for 1.5 years we've had no heat issues underhood yet. The car gets autocrossed or open tracked 2-4 times every month with 2-3 drivers each time, and street driven occasionally too. And we still have a stock BMW 6 cyl radiator and only the a/c aux fan cooling it. Working great.


Once more of BMW LS1 guys get their cars up and going you should sign up for the Ultimate Track Car Challenge (and you are guaranteed Grassroots Motorsports magazine coverage). We just got back form this year's event at Buttonwillow, CA and the car was a huge success. Next year its on the east coast... hope to see some of you guys there! Rao, Monger, Thaniel... you have the perfect cars!
edit: Mateo, there is zero reason for the turbo unless you just want to be a pimp. You can make more power N.A. with an LS1 than you could ever fully utilize. Turbo is going to be difficult to package, but if you have enough money anything is possible. The engine layout may need to change to fit everything - so talk to the shop doing the turbo install before you do your LS1 install. Good luck.
It's really hard to get pictures of the clearance. None of the angles show it well. The one pic you have I thought is about the only one that gives any kind of idea ask you can see where the steering shaft goes. Oh by the way the ABS is kept on the vehicle that the picture was taken (mine). Moved slightly outboard. Not sure that the motor let alone headers would even fit in there with the abs motor in it's factory spot.
I'm sure simpler headers could be made. Smaller dia tube, Unequal length or sacrafice ground clearance might all help for making simpler headers.
I have a few more pics that may give you more of an idea of how tight it is.
One with the steering shaft in there.

One showing the header. Note the overlapping tubes. Just can't shove them all to the motor side unless you do something really different.

Note the clearance between the block and the ABS actuator. The actuator in this picture has already been moved some higher and outboard from the factory location. My final location put it farther outboard but still retained the factory brake lines (did not even remove them to relocate it). Main alteration was to the low pressure tubes between the master cyl and abs actuator (early e36 models)

I'm sure simpler headers could be made. Smaller dia tube, Unequal length or sacrafice ground clearance might all help for making simpler headers.
I have a few more pics that may give you more of an idea of how tight it is.
One with the steering shaft in there.

One showing the header. Note the overlapping tubes. Just can't shove them all to the motor side unless you do something really different.

Note the clearance between the block and the ABS actuator. The actuator in this picture has already been moved some higher and outboard from the factory location. My final location put it farther outboard but still retained the factory brake lines (did not even remove them to relocate it). Main alteration was to the low pressure tubes between the master cyl and abs actuator (early e36 models)

haha good idea.
It seems like it would be possible for someone to use headers that don't require modification of the ABS OR the steering shaft. This would be idea for a number of reasons but mostly that it would be loads cheaper.
Does anyone have/can anyone take better pictures of the clearance between the steering shaft and block?
This is the only decent one I can find :
By looking at that picture, it seems that it would be possible to route all the exhaust piping toward the block and subsequently maintain the stock steering shaft and ABS.
Anyway, more pics would be helpful. I'll buy a foam block and if I can get headers to work they way I want them to, I could possibly make some more...
It seems like it would be possible for someone to use headers that don't require modification of the ABS OR the steering shaft. This would be idea for a number of reasons but mostly that it would be loads cheaper.
Does anyone have/can anyone take better pictures of the clearance between the steering shaft and block?
This is the only decent one I can find :

By looking at that picture, it seems that it would be possible to route all the exhaust piping toward the block and subsequently maintain the stock steering shaft and ABS.
Anyway, more pics would be helpful. I'll buy a foam block and if I can get headers to work they way I want them to, I could possibly make some more...

I'm thinking I'll make a header that will fit without modification of the steering shaft or ABS.
It probably will not be exactly equal length, but it would be long tube.
Think there is a market for something like that?
Monger-
Do you have any more info on that flange? I'd <3 a solidworks file or to buy one from you at least...
Been browsing craigslist and such for a suitable ls1. Hopefully will get my project in full swing by end of August.
It probably will not be exactly equal length, but it would be long tube.
Think there is a market for something like that?
Monger-
Do you have any more info on that flange? I'd <3 a solidworks file or to buy one from you at least...
Been browsing craigslist and such for a suitable ls1. Hopefully will get my project in full swing by end of August.




