slick_73

just to make sure, ox is a cable driven locker correct? I'd much rather run the ARB just SEAMS more reliable to me (may or may not be, but thats my opinion) plus I'm going to have onboard air anyways, so I'll already have the air there to run it

98blackSS

OX is cable operated. It usually comes down to who you ask as far as reliability. Only reason I'm leaning towards the OX is the people I know running them have never had an issue with the cable mechanism, and 3 or 4 people I know are currently having ARB leak issues. Could very well be coincidence I suppose. The nice thing about ARB is they have great tech and customer support from what I hear.

slick_73

yeah... the only reason I went with the e-locker was to be different, so we'll see how that works out for me.. haha

98blackSS

Sweet! That's pretty much what I want to do. Just wasn't sure if it would all fit. Looks like it will. I'm using the autometer gauges as well. Care to make two sets?

V8TJ

iTrader: (1)

ARB has freakin killer tech help! It also helps that Im close to their office here in WA and I know a few people who work there.

OX's work great from what I've seen, and I wouldnt hesitate to run one. E-Lockers, I havent seen to many of them to really know how well they work.

85jeeper

hey man, this thread is a little old, but i just stumbled on it. i did the same engine and tranny swap in my 85, and just finished it. i found a company online www.ls1wiring.com that took my 5.3 harness, and modified it into a simple 4 wire hookup: he eliminates the fuse block on the 5.3 and it will utilize your jeep fuse block. if you don't have a fuse block you can run inline fuses to there locations. he also reprogrammed the computer and took off the vats, emissions, and all limiters so this engine really rips, and theres no emmisions crap all over it. he also gives you a diagnostic link and an engine light lead so you can still hook it up to a diagnostic if you have trouble. $150 for everything. for the t-case adaptor, i went w/ novak, its overall shorter than the Adance one and it includes the vss. i also got weld-in engine mounts from novak. the radiator is a jeep chevy conversion. the gauges are autometer phantoms. you can't use the engines senders as they will not work w/ the gauges. for the water sender, there is a bolt on the passenger side head that it screws right into. for the oil sender, on the driverside directly above the oil filter, there is an oval cover held on w/ 2 screws. remove it (don't worry about oil going everywhere) and drill/tap threads into it. these 2 locations work perfect. for the fuel system i went a different and more expensive route. i kept the stock sending unit, but for a larger pickup tube i installed a bulkhead and a 1/2" tube going into a 100micron filter, then into a aeromotive tsunami fuel pump. its all braided stainless hose and frame mounted. give it time man, when its all said and done, you'll be glad you did it.

venomhp

iTrader: (13)

both lockers have their weak points, kinda pick your poison

slick_73

I guess I got lucky, my harness was already done.. so I'm golden there

slick_73

most recent parts are here.. still needs a few things, but its getting closer...


looks like a clocking ring is gonna be needed...




and to keep it cool:

twisselman1968

iTrader: (1)

hay did you get you computer reflashed yet I used Brenden Patten from www.lt1swap.com he did the harness and computer for my LS1 T56 swap in my 90 camaro he did a great job and was cheap might want to check him out

slick_73

Its been flashed as a stand alone unit, but hasn't had the stuff for the tires and gears added in yet...

slick_73

anyone happen to have a picture or diagram of the serpentene belt for a 5.3 with no AC? I've got my motor and am looking for a belt for it, but I'm not sure if I need to get an AC delete pully or what.....

98blackSS

The belts should be separate. There is a small one specifically for the A/C that runs off the crank. The main belt doesn't touch the A/C.

slick_73

oh yeah!! I knew that.. for some reason, I completly forgot about that.. thanks!!

Grewe02

iTrader: (4)

What did he say? And where are you stationed? I'm at Oceana at the beach.

I'm currently putting an LS1 (Just because they're more available than the Vortec) into an 1980 CJ5.

JxxxOxxxE

iTrader: (1)

thats a dana 300 right? It doesnt look remotely close to clearing??? Thats the combo I am going to use. Advanced Adapters said the motor would need to be 1 inch offest to the drivers side so the driveshaft cleared the pan, but I am not so sure that will clear...

be sure to post what you have to do to make it work....

slick_73

I'm stationed up here in Quantico, the guy wrote back, and bassicly told me to get bent and that I should have checked the stuff out before.. whatever, I still got a good deal.. anyone need a 2wd tranny with no bellhousing???? yeah, its a dana 300.. I need a clocking ring and it should be ok.. its been done before, so I know its possible... I'm running full width axles, so the driveshaft will be running off to the side even more, away from the motor, so I think I'll be ok... we'll see though!

JxxxOxxxE

iTrader: (1)

I've got full width axles also (D60's), but was sure hoping I wouldnt have to get anything else. Where are you going to get a clocking ring from? Advanced? Definitely keep this updated please...

slick_73

I'm not sure who I'll get the ring from.. probably whoever I can find the best deal from.. deff. not A.A. there are a few vendors over on pirate I'm going to be looking into..

Grewe02

iTrader: (4)

Great Lakes Offroad... $67 shipped TYD.

http://www.greatlakeoffroad.com/clock.html

They are the guys that make the "best" (According to the diff cover shootout) diff covers on the market. IIRC, they took a damn .50 cal and shot it.