slick_73

thats one of the top ones I've been looking at.. they have a waranty in bold letters that says something like: "if you break it, we'll replace it, and put you in the hall of fame, cuz its never been done before"

JxxxOxxxE

iTrader: (1)

Here's my question about a clocking ring though...wont it make more space between the trans and the transfer case? Thus making the length of splines being engaged less?

Grewe02

iTrader: (4)

Simplest answer: Yes.

Best answer: It doesn't matter for how little it spaces it out. Most adapter rings for tranny to tcase are AT LEAST 3", so a piece of 1/2" steel isn't going to do that much damage. And if you tell AA or Novak that you're going to be clocking it, I'm sure they'll give you a slightly longer output shaft for the tranny for a small fee.

Eskimo

iTrader: (9)

Looks like you bolted up the t-case one full set of holes higher that it's "supposed" to go.. yes, they hang way down in "factory" form.

I clocked my NP205 flat, and used a 2-piece front driveline.. lets me run a 30x36 flat skidplate too..

slick_73

those pics are just from me playing around with it.. if I clocked it down to the holes you are talking about the front driveshaft runs right into the back to the tranny

Grewe02

iTrader: (4)

On what kind of truck? A Jeep?

And how much lift are you running? I've got 4" on my CJ5 right now, and the only way for me to get rid of driveline vibes was to drop the tcase about 2"

But then again, the CJ5 was one of the shortest Jeeps made, so I'm sure that plays a huge role in it

slick_73

anyone have any measurements of thier conversion radiators?? we are looking at them now, and can't find any measurements to see which one would fit.. also, whats the deal with the "steam port" do I need one or? and whats the sensor that is sticking straight up out of the top of the intake, right behind the TB? do I need it? can I get rid of it? anyone?

JxxxOxxxE

iTrader: (1)

The sensor you're talking about sounds like the EGR setup. No you dont need it, but will have to either plug the intake where the hole is after removing it, or get another intake without the EGR provision. Also, the EGR codes in the PCM will need to be programmed out unless you like staring at the check engine light....

1992yj

Looks nice,
Just picked up a 2006 6.0 LS2 with auto tranny. With all the electronics Computer, manifolds and resonators, cats.

I dont know what i got myself into. Will it be a tough fit? Guys know of motor mounts to use?

I cant even imagine what im up against trying to get this thing legal. On the bright side the jeep is still registered in Colorado (just moved to Cali) were I had no smog req. i prob won't register it here till /if i get this thing legal.

I'm thrilled and scared at same time.

slick_73

well, the motor and tranyn and stuff is all in.. tried fiting it up last night.. and it just won't start. about the first time I try and crank it up I'll get like just a couple fires out of it, and then nothing.. then maybe a few other times I can get it to fire once or twice, but won't actually fire up and run... any thoughts? I'm getting fuel at the rails, and I know that I'm getting spark, since it will fire a couple times I have to assume I have power everywhere and have good fuel pressure.. I'm lost.

jeepinpete

Assuming you have had VATS removed from the PCM, my bet would be clogged injectors. Had it happen to me, and have read plenty of reports of the truck injectors plugging up when sitting for awhile. In my case, I pulled them out and soaked them overnight in a bottle of Seafoam. Put it all together, and though better, it still wasn't running right. Let them sit overnight again, and that was that. I've got 15k on those injectors to date...

A12secSS

was the engine pulled from a wrecked vehicle?

slick_73

99% sure the injectors are all clear.. I popped the rails up and gave them each power and could watch them spray fuel, it was in a nice even spray, didn't seam like any clogging going on.

the motor is from a wrecked vehicle, bought from hotrod-contols on ebay, he reworks the harnesses and everything, and even has clips of the motors running on his adds to show that they will run sitting on an engine stand.

I'm starting to think I don't have good enough fuel pressure.. I am going to get a gauge on the rail tomorrow, to see what I can figure out there.. but if I cycle the fuel pump about 3 times, then try and start it, it'll fire and run for about half a second and cut off. I have an inline filter right next to the top of the fuel cell, then the line goes down through the floor, and into an e-2000 fuel pump, to a vette filter/regulator then on up to the motor (my motor only has an in line, no return) heres a clip of me trying to start it:




I've been moving the pump around to see if any position is better than others, and it is all prettymuch the same.. here is a clip of it running, to me it sounds like its sucking air or something:

slick_73

any thoughts anyone?

TomH

iTrader: (1)

• How fine is your pre-filter? It should only be ~80-100 micron.
• How good are your grounds? Is the vibration of the running engine interrupting a ground to the PCM?
• How are you running power to your pump? Do you have a circuit breaker in front of it that is quitting on you and then doing an auto reset?

Good luck!

slick_73

I've tried getting it to run without the pre-filter, grounds are good.. I've tried running the power and ground the correct way (ground to frame, power from fuel pump relay) and straight from the battery.. to see if I could "force the fuel to the motor, I used my air compressor to pressurize the fuel cell, then found out that some of the fittings weren't tight enough, so I tightened them up and tried it again.. its much better now, but the pump still isn't making enough pressure.. I'm 99.9999999999% sure I just need more pressure..

TomH

iTrader: (1)

If you're down on pressure:

• Blockage on the inlet
  • Can you run a feed from an alternate fuel supply (Run a feed from a bottle of gas). When you do, does the pump sound different? (Less cavitation?)
  • If you have a pre-filter, can you clean it out?
• Blockage on the outlet or insufficient amps to the pump
  • What kind of pressure are you getting at the rail?
  • If you're running the Vette Filter/Reg, try swapping in a new one, as it's only $30 to see whether that's the issue
  • Do you have a >=12ga. feed to the pump along with a 12ga ground?
• Weak pump

Good luck.

slick_73

I haven't had a chance to check the pressure yet, but, I've been thinking about the ECM.. would the VATS not being disabled cause this? or would any other electrical issue cause it? I've checked double checked and re-checked the harness and can't find anything that would seam to cause any issues. or does the video make it sound more like a fuel pressure issue?

TomH

iTrader: (1)

The video makes it sound like your battery is flat. Does the batt have a fresh charge?

slick_73

have spent the last week or so playing with the fuel pump and batteries, and have about zero PSI, this pump is an e2000, I'm gonna order this: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=SUM-G3138 to replace it.. any pros/cons on that pump? or any experience? its about the sameish price as the e2000, and I've got a bunch of other stuff to order through summit, so I figure might as well right? thoughts?