mudbog42

Yeah, if you have some pics that would be great. My steering column is on the outside of the frame rails also.

I am thinking of using these
http://www.jegs.com/p/Patriot+Exhaus...10002/-1/10605

But if f-body headers will fit, maybe I could get some long tubes or something different

mudbog42

LS1 Coupe,
Do you think these are the same dimensions as your headers, there made for F-bodies so I think they would be the same dimensions as yours
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I really liked these ones and I was looking at the pics in your build thread and your frame does look very similar to mine.

LS1 Coupe

I am pretty sure of the frame being close to the same, my orginal steering was inside the frame, Anyways, here is a pic of the orginal front frame assembly unmodified, the engine in the frame after being blasted and new front end in, the rails themselves are really unmodified except as you look at the steering knuckle there is a small indentation by the front header pipe, that is where there was very limited room without the mod to the frame. Do a search on Summit for LS1, Exhaust, Headers, checkout the Holleys - HOK-2312HKR, Patriots - PTE-H8046-1, the biggest issue is #1 tube and how far it sticks out away from the block, Also look back at my build page and check out Oscar's 97 vette exhaust manifolds, they are sheet metal which means you can have someone modify the downpipe for clearence if need be if your really trying to keep budgett to a minimum. Also note the downside to the FBody headers is that the drivers side pipe angles to the frame & down (plenty of clerance) and the p/Side goes straight back with a slight angle up, these are not a huge ordeal except when having to make an XPipe or HPipe setup with mandrel bends. Some guys like block huggers I don't, ran a set, they where more of a PIA then regular headers

mudbog42

Yeah, I don't really like the block huggers either, thats why I am trying to find something else.

But I think I may try the f-body headers, because I am not going to have an x or h-pipe, I am just going to have true duals straight back and out the in front of the rear tire

LS1 Coupe

I did Kooks and the reason why is because they have a 30 day money back if the pipes are still new, meaning if they dont fit, And no scratches/dents etc.

mudbog42

-Put headers on
-finish wiring
-hook up gauges
-fire it up

mudbog42

Passenger side is in





But drivers side would have fit perfect, but because of the location of my master cylinder underneath the floor, I can't install the header so I am going to go to the exhaust shop and see if they can't bend it some to clear the M/C

mudbog42

Good news, got the headers in.
and I got it to start

Now for the part I need help with:
I can get it started with starting fluid and sounds like a beast, but once the fluid is gone, it dies. So I am assuming I have spark since it runs off of the starting fluid.
Also sometimes it will start without any fluid for like half a second after sitting for a little bit.

Troubleshot:
-Can hear fuel pump kick on
-Can also hear injectors spray when the key is on
-MAF is hooked up
-have about 4-5 gallons in the fuel tank
-No trouble codes showing up
-ECM programmed by Wait4Me so I assume VATS is deleted

Also when it is running it doesn't stumble or anything, sounds like it would run really good, then it runs out of starting fluid and dies

Been troubleshooting all day and now need help

Oh yeah, had a video of first start up, but for some reason the camera didn't save it, but I'll try and get one when she starts runnin right

LS1 Coupe

I am not a pro when it comes to these motors and there ECM functionality, But on my 04 LS1 with auto and the factory harness there is a park/nuetral sensor that needed to know when it was in Nuetral or Park for the engine to do a case learn, the wiring just needs a ground to think its in park or nuetral. Also make sure you have your TB sensors all plugged in, I had mine disconnected yesterday and it would fire then shut down, after i plugged everything in it would idle again. Still can let mine idle to long because I still dont have any afreeze in it yet, still waiting for a couple peices left.

Good Luck

mudbog42

On the harness there is no ground wire off of those two PNP connectors. Though there is one wire labeled starter relay, but I do not have it hooked to anything because I have no starter relay

Stu Cool

iTrader: (13)

A starter relay is a good idea. Keeps the starter from running too long after the motor starts. Ask Wait4Me how to hook it up. That where you had your harness done right? Not sure if that would affect the problem you are having. I would ask them about that too. Glad to hear you got it to make noise!

Pat

LS1 Coupe

Stu, he is running a Painless wiring setup, I did some reading of there harnesses yesterday and they also mention about the Park /Nuetral sensor which doesnt look like it is part of the harness, I might suggest calling Painless and see what they have to say or possibly a search here as well for painless wiring to see if anyone else has ran across anything. Some of these wiring setups dont give you everything needed and you have to buy additional peices for it to all work. Do yoou have the trans controller setup and wiring yet?

mudbog42

Yeah the trans is all wired up. Good point to mention about the painless harness though, I did have to get some things, for example a fuel pump relay which they dont' mention anything about in the directions and it ended being a like radiator fan relay or something off of like an 85 camaro.....wierd...but I got it figured out.

As for the starting problem, I think I got it now. Since I could hear the injectors, I just assumed they were firing, well this morning, I took them out to watch them and sure enough, nothing came out, but it sounded like it was. So first thing that came to mind was clogged injectors.

So I went and borrowed an injector from the parts store, put it in, and sure enough that injector was firing, and I must have jarred another one free from all the movement, because now another one started going on the other side.

So I had two injectors shooting (new one, and one old one) and the motor wanted to start, just didn't have enough fuel I assume from just two injectors, but it definitely sounded like it wanted to fire, so I think that may be it.

Needless to say, now all 8 injectors are soaking in Seafoam as we speak, and I will probably reinstall them tomorrow morning and see what happens.

Hopefully this is it.....

Carshopinc.com

iTrader: (5)

Are you sure vats is deleted?

LS1 Coupe

Did you check fuel pressure to the injector rail? Make sure you have a good power supply source for the fuel pump and thick enough wire, I am sure this was supplied with the Painless Kit!

mudbog42

Ok just checked pressure to the rail and when its priming its getting like 65 PSI and then after it clicks off its just under 60, probably about 55PSI, but then while cranking its getting about 65PSI to the rails.

I read somewhere that if the injectors get more 60PSI they won't fire. Can anyone verify this?

Also I called wait4me to make sure VATS was deleted and he said it was

mudbog42

Alright, just replaced the regulator and now fuel pressure is at 58PSI while priming and while cranking, which is where I read it should be, but the injectors still are not firing.

Also I hooked a mulitmeter up to one of the injectors and they are getting 12v, don't know about pulses yet though, since I have no one to turn the key while I watch the meter

LS1 Coupe

Can you check for codes? This may help. The other thing I do when in this situation is to just start back over at the beginng and double check everything is properly hooked up. Good grounds are a must. Did you call Painless to see what they have to say?

mudbog42

I have tried for codes and get none.

I haven't called painless, I wasn't sure if they would be able to help or not

Doubledip

first thing to do would be check for basics....

you have one one - check fuel pressure.. the others you need to check are things like fuel injectors and spark ... you said it ran fuel fuel being put down it before so we can assume spark is there but it would be best to make sure by getting your self a spark checker and injector noid light from a auto shop.
you will be able to see if the is spark on the leads and also see if the injectors are actually pulsing