my swap is alive!
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From: San Bernardino CA
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Thread Starter
TECH Regular
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From: San Bernardino CA
sorry i dont have anymore videos to post but i do have some news and some pics.
the good news is all my wiring is done and everything works! the fan turns on at 200* and off at 190*. i have the second wired to the battery and a toggle switch for double cooling. the alternator charges just fine and i have good fuel pressure.
the bad news is i test drove the car today and it looks like i need to pull the whole rig out! 3rd gear is toast and grinds like a bitch. all the other gears work just fine. looks like i need a rebuild...
here are some pics to pass the time.
the good news is all my wiring is done and everything works! the fan turns on at 200* and off at 190*. i have the second wired to the battery and a toggle switch for double cooling. the alternator charges just fine and i have good fuel pressure.
the bad news is i test drove the car today and it looks like i need to pull the whole rig out! 3rd gear is toast and grinds like a bitch. all the other gears work just fine. looks like i need a rebuild...
here are some pics to pass the time.
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TECH Regular
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From: San Bernardino CA
im running the msd. i took all 16 pins out of the connector and fed them through a small 1/2 inch hole in the fire wall. i plugged them all back in and mounted the box to the inside of the firewall with Velcro
What trans are you running?
I'm looking to do just what you did!
Any helpful advice you could give? More importantly information on motor mounts and the ignition system... Mine will be going into a 72 Nova so actually what headers did you go with?
I'm looking to do just what you did!
Any helpful advice you could give? More importantly information on motor mounts and the ignition system... Mine will be going into a 72 Nova so actually what headers did you go with?
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: San Bernardino CA
i used carshop plates, factory rubber mounts, and hooker headers. when i yank the engine out again to have the trans looked at i think im going to swap the oil pan. the autokraft pans sump is wide and the tie rods hit it at full lock.
The current pictures on autocraft's website look like they beveled the corners of the sump and inch or so to fix the tie rod clearance problem. My older Autokraft pan has a nice tierod shaped dent in it right now..