My LS1 Miata build
#41
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I expect it to weigh around 2500lbs. I have a full interior and 6-point roll bar and will probably have AC eventually. The ls1 swap adds around 150-200lbs to the car. A stripped (no interior, AC, radio, heater, etc) miata with ls1 swap weighed in at 2316lbs with half tank of gas. Thats the Racing Concepts development mule, its a first gen miata like mine.
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Note: Looks like there is a whole engine conversion forum on http://forum.miata.net/vb/. Will have to keep an eye on this thread and that forum. Again, best of luck and looks great.
#42
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Thank you very much for the information, and I will look forward to pictures of the clutch master cylinder setup. I am looking for a used PCM and wiring harness, and will also need a water pump and lower balancer pulley. I am still stripping parts out of the engine bay and getting ready to hack out the K-member - all distant memories for you guys. Just the beginning of a long string of purchases and questions, I am sure. One thing at a time....
I'm collecting parts for the build too and parting out the Miata this weekend.
Frank
#43
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The LS2 water pump gives more clearance up front for fans/rad. The 'vette balancer is shallower too. An in tank Walbro 255hp fuel pump for ~100 will pretty much drop into the Miata tank and should be sufficient.
I'm collecting parts for the build too and parting out the Miata this weekend.
Frank
I'm collecting parts for the build too and parting out the Miata this weekend.
Frank
Yeah, I used a Walbro 255 pump. Its not quite drop in but its an easy mod to get it to fit. I have pictures of fitting it in my car.
Blownmiata, the pictures of the clutch setup are on my site now under transmission page (http://home.comcast.net/~npartist/transmission.html#4). I did take pics of the master installed but will this weekend and add them.
#44
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Frank - thanks for the water pump and balancer info - I almost bought the '02 Camaro pump today, but will switch to an LS2 tomorrow. I will also check on the 'vette balancer.
I am not sure about the fuel pump, as mine is an '99 NB - none of the 255's are listed for the NB's. I may need to take a peek at the stock one before I buy the 255.
Nathan - thanks for the updated pics - they are extremely helpful. I didn't realize the master cylinder was a custom setup - guess I will be doing some major mods. I can't help but wonder if the Miata master cyl would furnish enough fluid to work the T56 slave - hmmmm...
I am not sure about the fuel pump, as mine is an '99 NB - none of the 255's are listed for the NB's. I may need to take a peek at the stock one before I buy the 255.
Nathan - thanks for the updated pics - they are extremely helpful. I didn't realize the master cylinder was a custom setup - guess I will be doing some major mods. I can't help but wonder if the Miata master cyl would furnish enough fluid to work the T56 slave - hmmmm...
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Frank - thanks for the water pump and balancer info - I almost bought the '02 Camaro pump today, but will switch to an LS2 tomorrow. I will also check on the 'vette balancer.
I am not sure about the fuel pump, as mine is an '99 NB - none of the 255's are listed for the NB's. I may need to take a peek at the stock one before I buy the 255.
Nathan - thanks for the updated pics - they are extremely helpful. I didn't realize the master cylinder was a custom setup - guess I will be doing some major mods. I can't help but wonder if the Miata master cyl would furnish enough fluid to work the T56 slave - hmmmm...
I am not sure about the fuel pump, as mine is an '99 NB - none of the 255's are listed for the NB's. I may need to take a peek at the stock one before I buy the 255.
Nathan - thanks for the updated pics - they are extremely helpful. I didn't realize the master cylinder was a custom setup - guess I will be doing some major mods. I can't help but wonder if the Miata master cyl would furnish enough fluid to work the T56 slave - hmmmm...
I'm almost positive the miata master can not move enough fluid for the t56. Its not that hard to modify the camaro one, just make a mounting solution so it mounts to the miata firewall and cut the rod and weld on the end of the maita rod so you can have the correct connector for the miata pedal. Thats minor compared to the mods needed for the k-member.
#47
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Walbro 255 is a must & fits the NB. For the clutch master, use a Wilwood 3/4" adjustable. It moves the same amount of fluid as the stock GM master, mounts to the Miata firewall easily by adding a mounting/dapter plate, & fits the stock pedal. On the throw out bearing end, the GM fitting is easily modified to fit an AN fitting; just stick the GM end into the throw out bearing & install the lock pin, cut the other end off & thread it NPT, then use an NPT to AN adapter for your hose, & it's done.
#48
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I didn't mean to say that I was going to use the Miata fuel pump - only that I didn't know if the Walbro NA pump would fit an NB. You answered that, so I will get one ordered. I don't have my T56 trans yet (on order from Six Speeds Inc) but I will try the throwout adapter mod you suggested.
Thanks for the tip on the Wilwood clutch master. I ordered the 'vette water pump and fuel filter today - next is the Walbro fuel pump, Wilwood clutch master, 'vette balancer, and Hooker shorty headers.
It looks like the main belt runs over the power steering pulley - did you guys hook up the LS1 P/S to the Miata P/S cylinder?
I still have not decided between a Cadillac (Getrag) CTS-V differential or the Ford 8.8. I can get a new Getrag for around $800 with 3.42 gears (non-limited slip), but of course the 8.8 is proven and bulletproof (but big). Suggestions?
Thanks for the tip on the Wilwood clutch master. I ordered the 'vette water pump and fuel filter today - next is the Walbro fuel pump, Wilwood clutch master, 'vette balancer, and Hooker shorty headers.
It looks like the main belt runs over the power steering pulley - did you guys hook up the LS1 P/S to the Miata P/S cylinder?
I still have not decided between a Cadillac (Getrag) CTS-V differential or the Ford 8.8. I can get a new Getrag for around $800 with 3.42 gears (non-limited slip), but of course the 8.8 is proven and bulletproof (but big). Suggestions?
#49
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If I were you, I'd just get rid of power steering. It makes life easier. I think thats what most people do and with a properly depowered miata rack, the steering is great and only heavy in the parking lot arena. FYI, the non power steering pump belt length is 52.75 inches.
You want limited slip. I don't know much about the cts diffs. I do know that the 8.8 is not known for being as efficient as some other (ie, it robs more hp than most).
You want limited slip. I don't know much about the cts diffs. I do know that the 8.8 is not known for being as efficient as some other (ie, it robs more hp than most).
#50
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So when you de-power the steering, do you just plug or remove the lines, or do you hook the two ends together? I assume that the shorter belt goes from under the crank, over the idler, and around the alternator.
#51
Launching!
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http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...=1#post6735269
There is a link to a writeup for converting an RX7 rack to manual which should be similar. Further down in the thread there is also a link to a Flying Miata tech article about doing it to a Miata rack, but their site appears to be down at the moment.
There is a link to a writeup for converting an RX7 rack to manual which should be similar. Further down in the thread there is also a link to a Flying Miata tech article about doing it to a Miata rack, but their site appears to be down at the moment.
#52
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[QUOTE=blownmiata;8917861]
It looks like the main belt runs over the power steering pulley - did you guys hook up the LS1 P/S to the Miata P/S cylinder?[[QUOTE]
Yes
If your happy w/ the cost/performance of the Getrag, then why not? If, in the future you want to change it out, then the next step is the Ford 8.8 w/ a Detroit True-trac. The most important thing about the rear end is to support the **** out of it. There is no torque arm in a V8 powered Miata & the rear diff mount must be ridgid enough to transfer the load into the body.
It looks like the main belt runs over the power steering pulley - did you guys hook up the LS1 P/S to the Miata P/S cylinder?[[QUOTE]
Yes
I still have not decided between a Cadillac (Getrag) CTS-V differential or the Ford 8.8. I can get a new Getrag for around $800 with 3.42 gears (non-limited slip), but of course the 8.8 is proven and bulletproof (but big). Suggestions?
#53
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LS1-450 - I would be interested to know how you hooked up your power steering to the LS1. I had planned to disconnect it, but if it isn't too hard maybe I would leave it.
After reading more about the Getrag differential (on the Cadillac CTS forums) I think I will switch to the 8.8 Ford diff. The Getrag has a terrible track record for blowing seals and losing the preload. Cadillac did a recall, but they are still failing. The '09 CTS will have an iron carrier, but I can't wait that long. Know anyone that wants to sell an 8.8 IRS?
After reading more about the Getrag differential (on the Cadillac CTS forums) I think I will switch to the 8.8 Ford diff. The Getrag has a terrible track record for blowing seals and losing the preload. Cadillac did a recall, but they are still failing. The '09 CTS will have an iron carrier, but I can't wait that long. Know anyone that wants to sell an 8.8 IRS?
#54
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Trying calling Dan at Racing Concepts. He provided my 8.8 diff. Also, I think an important thing to note about the cts-v diff failures is that most of them are due to wheel hop which was terrible in the first gen cts. Not saying the cts the best choice but I bet it would have less failures in a v8 miata. That said, I have a 8.8...
I got the radiator/cooling lines and air intake completed this weekend. Atleast the first edition of them that is. I still didn't get the fuel fitting in yet (everyone, like summit, is out of stock til next week). I will be in costa rica this week so no work on the miata for 2 weeks...![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
I am going to try and update the website with pictures of this weekend's progress, including the new custom radiator, this week. I should have access to the internet while out of town.
I got the radiator/cooling lines and air intake completed this weekend. Atleast the first edition of them that is. I still didn't get the fuel fitting in yet (everyone, like summit, is out of stock til next week). I will be in costa rica this week so no work on the miata for 2 weeks...
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I am going to try and update the website with pictures of this weekend's progress, including the new custom radiator, this week. I should have access to the internet while out of town.
#55
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The CTS-V differential may be OK in a Miata, but I hope to smoke the tires a few times, and guess I would rather not be worrying about the rear end spewing oil. The 8.8 is pretty big size-wise for the Miata, but it is a proven workhorse, and I won't have to think about it.
I have everything pretty much stripped out of the car now, and need to start figuring out how and where to hack the tunnel. Fuel system will go in this week.
My rebuilt engine is missing alot of parts - pulleys, water pump, bellhousing, bolts, etc so I have some sourcing to do. I also need to find a wiring harness and PCM out of a Camaro/Firebird. Have fun in Costa!
I have everything pretty much stripped out of the car now, and need to start figuring out how and where to hack the tunnel. Fuel system will go in this week.
My rebuilt engine is missing alot of parts - pulleys, water pump, bellhousing, bolts, etc so I have some sourcing to do. I also need to find a wiring harness and PCM out of a Camaro/Firebird. Have fun in Costa!
#56
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It's not more work to keep it than it is to correctly disconnect it. I will take some pics after I get the front jacked up, later this week.
Right now, I'm pissed. Yesterday, I collapsed a lifter while setting up new 1.8rockers. Now I have to pull the driver side head, just to replace a lifter. I hate that about LSX motors. Anyway, am gonna be doing my own tunning & thought I'd increase the valve opening a bit prior to setting up the tune. Of course, I got impatient & srewed up a lifter. Will be raising the car to install a wide band 02 & will take pics for you then.
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Just so you know, you don't have to cut the tunnel (my kit doesn't require it) but I'm not saying its a bad idea. Moving the engine back an 1inch or 2 would probably give you 50/50 from the get go vs the 52-3/48-7 that it will be without cutting. My car club, www.wreckracing.com, is putting a lexus 4L 1UZFE V8 into a miata and we are hacking away at it to push the engine back 4-6 inches.
#59
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Sorry about the rocker arm rant earlier. I didn't buy the adjustable rocker arms that I should have & then bent a valve trying to make 'em work. Thought @ first that it was the lifter, but, turned out to be a valve. Anyway, the adjustables that should have been installed in the first place are here now. Just finished checking rocker arm wipe & measuring new push rod length. Push rods will be here tomorrow. Have included this so that other Miata builders', swapping from stock non-adjustable 1.7:1 rockers to 1.8:1 roller rockers will pay a little more for the adjustable rocker on stud set up & not waist their time on non-adjustable types if they are increasing the rocker ratio from 1.7:1 to 1.8:1.
OK, here are a few pics of the power steering piping. pic 6 hose goes to the steering box, pic 7 goes from pump to the front of the rail shown in pic 8. Pic 10 shows the three steering box connections; top goes to rail rear, middle is from hose clamp side of pump (pic 6), bottom goes to rail front also shown in pic 8. Looks like a mess, huh? Figured that if you look @ your current Miata piping, it will make more sense. Just saw that pic numbers aren't shown. So, they are in decending order, first pic 10 & last pic 5.
Pic 5 shows the new adjustable rockers. Ain't they perty'?
Figured that the information posted here pertains to questions related to the ls1_miata build & as further information regarding an ls1 miata rocker swap. If anyone feels that this post is off topic, please let me know & it will be removed; Thanks.
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#60
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I cranked her up for the first time last night! I made a crappy video with my camera. Better quality video will be coming, I just have to get a hold of a camcorder.
http://home.comcast.net/~npartist/co...on_videos.html
I still have to install the coolant temp and oil pressure sensors (just for gages, not for PCM), wire up the cooling fan and fill up the coolant then it should be drivable! The coolant fill is going to be a real b!tch because the fill point is lower than the heater core lines that go over the engine. There isn't really anything you can do about them though, I will try and fill it on ramps on a hill but I'm pretty sure I need to bring it to a shop with a pressure filler.
Hopefully I can drive my car to the 5th annual www.gatechautoshow.com on saturday, if not I will tow it. If your local to atlanta, feel free to come by and meet me/the car.
http://home.comcast.net/~npartist/co...on_videos.html
I still have to install the coolant temp and oil pressure sensors (just for gages, not for PCM), wire up the cooling fan and fill up the coolant then it should be drivable! The coolant fill is going to be a real b!tch because the fill point is lower than the heater core lines that go over the engine. There isn't really anything you can do about them though, I will try and fill it on ramps on a hill but I'm pretty sure I need to bring it to a shop with a pressure filler.
Hopefully I can drive my car to the 5th annual www.gatechautoshow.com on saturday, if not I will tow it. If your local to atlanta, feel free to come by and meet me/the car.