1970 Chevelle w/ LS2 TKO500 Progress.
1970 Chevelle w/ LS2 TKO500 Progress. After many questions and learning, here is the inital mock up of the LS2 with the Tremec TKO500 on my 1970 Chevelle Frame. Thanks for all of the help!
(Here is the link to the images)
http://profile.imageshack.us/user/benjmatt/
The frame currently has big block springs under the front end.
This will be the thread that I use to post progress.
Facts
1. BRP style mounts that I made at home w/ original Small Block Perches relocated.
2. Will be notching the frame for the AC compressor once the engine is positioned correctly.
3. Am using the Edelbrock LS1 swap headers, they currently fit meeting all of my goals.
Goals were as follows
1. Be able to use the Edelbrock LS1 Swap Headers
2. Retain Stock AC compressor Location
3. Retain Drive Shaft from the pre LS2 configuration.
The steering linkage does not hit the oil pan as I used the same thickness of the mounts that were ordered with the edelbrock headers. 3/8" steel is what I used.
I had both the S&P and Edelbrock mounts which I sent both back since they would not allow the use of the stock AC location.
The Edelbrock headers apealed to me because of the stainless constuction and the fact that they use a lead donut at the collector to prevent leaks.
I will be raising the trasmission up to level out the engine some. Don't want to go too high so that I have to cut and weld the tunnel again.
(Here is the link to the images)
http://profile.imageshack.us/user/benjmatt/
The frame currently has big block springs under the front end.
This will be the thread that I use to post progress.
Facts
1. BRP style mounts that I made at home w/ original Small Block Perches relocated.
2. Will be notching the frame for the AC compressor once the engine is positioned correctly.
3. Am using the Edelbrock LS1 swap headers, they currently fit meeting all of my goals.
Goals were as follows
1. Be able to use the Edelbrock LS1 Swap Headers
2. Retain Stock AC compressor Location
3. Retain Drive Shaft from the pre LS2 configuration.
The steering linkage does not hit the oil pan as I used the same thickness of the mounts that were ordered with the edelbrock headers. 3/8" steel is what I used.
I had both the S&P and Edelbrock mounts which I sent both back since they would not allow the use of the stock AC location.
The Edelbrock headers apealed to me because of the stainless constuction and the fact that they use a lead donut at the collector to prevent leaks.
I will be raising the trasmission up to level out the engine some. Don't want to go too high so that I have to cut and weld the tunnel again.
Looks like a good start.. Keep us posted on your progress.. I always take a interest in all of the A-body swaps.. I am planning on getting some Edelbrock headers this summer, I have been following ohter threads on others that are going to or using them.
Notching the frame today. Today I bit the bullet, pulled out the plasma cutter and cut the frame for the AC compressor. I met all of my above goals at this point mentioned above.
Here is the progress showing the cut out (link below). I did take out more than necessary but I want to make sure I have plenty of room to run the lines to the compressor. I am actually going to cut about and 1 inch more and trim the engine stand so that the AC line issue is a non issue and is easily to get to rather than impossible.
Also I did cut the entire piece as one chunk so that if I decide to go back to a non-notched frame it will not be impossible task.
In the next couple weeks I hope to have the frame and all the other components at the powder coater.
Here is my progress
http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Benjmatt
Here is the progress showing the cut out (link below). I did take out more than necessary but I want to make sure I have plenty of room to run the lines to the compressor. I am actually going to cut about and 1 inch more and trim the engine stand so that the AC line issue is a non issue and is easily to get to rather than impossible.
Also I did cut the entire piece as one chunk so that if I decide to go back to a non-notched frame it will not be impossible task.
In the next couple weeks I hope to have the frame and all the other components at the powder coater.
Here is my progress
http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Benjmatt
Ben
Good going. It looks like you have cut more than enough... as You have cut more that i did.
Is the engine and trans set.. It looks like you have a lot of engine/trans tilt ?..
Could you take some pictures of the Headers. I am thinking of buying a set and want to know how much room there is around the frame and headers.
Keep us posted..
Good going. It looks like you have cut more than enough... as You have cut more that i did.
Is the engine and trans set.. It looks like you have a lot of engine/trans tilt ?..
Could you take some pictures of the Headers. I am thinking of buying a set and want to know how much room there is around the frame and headers.
Keep us posted..
Trending Topics
Ben
Good going. It looks like you have cut more than enough... as You have cut more that i did.
Is the engine and trans set.. It looks like you have a lot of engine/trans tilt ?..
Could you take some pictures of the Headers. I am thinking of buying a set and want to know how much room there is around the frame and headers.
Keep us posted..
Good going. It looks like you have cut more than enough... as You have cut more that i did.
Is the engine and trans set.. It looks like you have a lot of engine/trans tilt ?..
Could you take some pictures of the Headers. I am thinking of buying a set and want to know how much room there is around the frame and headers.
Keep us posted..
Ben
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Thanks, The two areas I want to have a look at is the drive side around the steerring box and around the area around the frame where the proportioning valve is (mine is there and not under the master).
I have stainless steel lines in already and I don't want to be messing with them anymore by relocation the valve up to the master.
Thanks, The two areas I want to have a look at is the drive side around the steerring box and around the area around the frame where the proportioning valve is (mine is there and not under the master).
I have stainless steel lines in already and I don't want to be messing with them anymore by relocation the valve up to the master.
Frame Notch Complete 
Would have had this done this weekend but did not have the correct thickness of steel plate I needed.
I will mock the engine up one more time and then remove the front end components and clean up the welds on the bottom side of the frame.
Finally, off to the powdercoater!
Ben
Thanks, The two areas I want to have a look at is the drive side around the steerring box and around the area around the frame where the proportioning valve is (mine is there and not under the master).
I have stainless steel lines in already and I don't want to be messing with them anymore by relocation the valve up to the master.
Thanks, The two areas I want to have a look at is the drive side around the steerring box and around the area around the frame where the proportioning valve is (mine is there and not under the master).
I have stainless steel lines in already and I don't want to be messing with them anymore by relocation the valve up to the master.
I will get pictures with the headers on tomorrow. I think you will be fine on both areas. I still have the stock proportioning valve on the frame with no header issues. Same with the steering box. The drivers side frame rails comes within 1/2 inch of the #1 primary tube, like I said before.
Andrew
bczee, These pictures are of the edelbrock headers. I am very excited that I am able to use my existing driveshaft, stock AC compressor, and the edelbrock headers. All with a little love with metal.
Thanks
Ben
Powder coating Got the bulk of the parts back from the powdercoater last night. Took the A-Arms and Rear Trailing arms in to have the bushing installed (got them back in less than a day, the installer could tell I want to jam on this).
Tomorrow I get the frame and the rest of the parts. I would guess in two weeks I will have the frame and all mechanicals re-assembled and sent off to the body shop. I absolutely can't wait to get this car done. Been a long time since it was a useful car.
http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Benjmatt
Tomorrow I get the frame and the rest of the parts. I would guess in two weeks I will have the frame and all mechanicals re-assembled and sent off to the body shop. I absolutely can't wait to get this car done. Been a long time since it was a useful car.
http://profile.imageshack.us/user/Benjmatt
Last edited by 1970-Cloned; May 21, 2008 at 07:43 AM.
Frame is back http://www.skybeamsearchlight.com/Frame/
Progress is going to snow ball now. Hope to have the frame and driveline back to the body shop June 1st.
I will post progress everyday until the frame is ready to roll.
Progress is going to snow ball now. Hope to have the frame and driveline back to the body shop June 1st.
I will post progress everyday until the frame is ready to roll.