4wd s10 to 5.3L NEED HELP!!!!
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Joined: Apr 2008
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4wd s10 to 5.3L NEED HELP!!!! Hello this is bobby I am putting a 5.3L in to a 4wd s10 blazer siting 6 inches off the ground. Does any one know how in the world to fit that damn thing in there and what may be needed. If any one has a design for a mounting bracket I would love you forever for a diagram with dimensions so I can make one my self that is the biggest problem im having I dont know what Im doing on Fabricating mounts.
Please help
Bobby
Please help
Bobby
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2008
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There are mounts all over for a V8 swap so the S10 should be pretty easy to.
I just read for a day or so and found lots of sources and answers here in the conversion threads.
I am doing a 5.3 into an Elky now and everything you need is here!
FB
I just read for a day or so and found lots of sources and answers here in the conversion threads.
I am doing a 5.3 into an Elky now and everything you need is here!
FB
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2008
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thats the thing the mounts are for a 350 pre the ls series when I spoke to JTR (jags that run) the manager told me "We dont sell mounts that will work for you there is not big enough demand for us to design those mounts either so you will have to one off a set of mounts for your specific needs". If any one knows other wise and has proff that the regular mounts for s10 4wd v8 swap mounts will work with the 5.3 please let me know thank you
Bobby
Bobby
you may need to fab your own mounts,or find out where "the merv" got his motor mounts from,i think it was "street & performance! use them in conjunction with the conventional 4X4 mounts.. try link below,scroll down to the search and type in ls1mounts then click the tahoe link..this is what i think you will be able to use with the conversion mounts.
http://www.hotrodlane.cc/
http://www.hotrodlane.cc/
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1
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Mounts Hi,
I'm a newb here, though I've been creeping around for years. You can take this advice or leave it... The New H3 pan will probably be your closest bet for an OE pan clearing the front diff, which is your primary concern. There isn't alot of space for the sump to sit in between the axle tube, front driveshaft, and pumpkin. With the torsion bars, tranny lines (if you have them) throen in there the space gets tight! You may have to fab (or mod) a sheet metal pan to get what you need but that will stupidly expensive. Unless you put some body lift on the truck your options for clearance are limited. I went the "JTR" route on my 1st series s-10 LT-4, welded two steel 4.3 pans together. I tried every engine mount under the sun, trans dapt, JTR etc, no luck. Since I went AWD, remaned keys, and installed ZQ8 rear springs I needed the engine as low as I could get it, 1/2" clearance between the bottom of the pan and the crossmember. I ended up using the jtr engine side templates, with holes cut in them for maximum drop, mocking the engine into place with blocks of wood and then fabricating the "ears", used the F150 steering shaft, sanderson headers, 2.5" downpipes Y'ed into 3" cat and back I can send you some pics if ya like. Another option is to take a 2nd Gen aluminum 4.3 sump and weld it to a stock truck, F-body, whatever fits best, LS pan. I've not compared the two side by side, I'd imagine some gaps, but whatever, better than fabbing a whole pan. I'd recommend sign new pieces that hadn't been oiled but you could use used junk to mock it up. Good luck
I'm a newb here, though I've been creeping around for years. You can take this advice or leave it... The New H3 pan will probably be your closest bet for an OE pan clearing the front diff, which is your primary concern. There isn't alot of space for the sump to sit in between the axle tube, front driveshaft, and pumpkin. With the torsion bars, tranny lines (if you have them) throen in there the space gets tight! You may have to fab (or mod) a sheet metal pan to get what you need but that will stupidly expensive. Unless you put some body lift on the truck your options for clearance are limited. I went the "JTR" route on my 1st series s-10 LT-4, welded two steel 4.3 pans together. I tried every engine mount under the sun, trans dapt, JTR etc, no luck. Since I went AWD, remaned keys, and installed ZQ8 rear springs I needed the engine as low as I could get it, 1/2" clearance between the bottom of the pan and the crossmember. I ended up using the jtr engine side templates, with holes cut in them for maximum drop, mocking the engine into place with blocks of wood and then fabricating the "ears", used the F150 steering shaft, sanderson headers, 2.5" downpipes Y'ed into 3" cat and back I can send you some pics if ya like. Another option is to take a 2nd Gen aluminum 4.3 sump and weld it to a stock truck, F-body, whatever fits best, LS pan. I've not compared the two side by side, I'd imagine some gaps, but whatever, better than fabbing a whole pan. I'd recommend sign new pieces that hadn't been oiled but you could use used junk to mock it up. Good luck
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TECH Resident
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 841
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From: Baltimore, MD.
Hello this is bobby I am putting a 5.3L in to a 4wd s10 blazer siting 6 inches off the ground. Does any one know how in the world to fit that damn thing in there and what may be needed. If any one has a design for a mounting bracket I would love you forever for a diagram with dimensions so I can make one my self that is the biggest problem im having I dont know what Im doing on Fabricating mounts.
Please help
Bobby
Please help
Bobby
Their mounts work in both 1st and 2nd gen trucks. When I bought mine (about 2 years ago) they were $100. They also have a custom sheetmetal aluminum oilpan to clear the front diff. I don't know what the price is, because it wasn't available when I did my truck. Instead, I fabbed the oilpan for my truck from 18ga steel sheet and some 3/8" x 1.5" barstock.
'JustDreamin'
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Fitment issues..... Yep
Custom Oil Pan:
Exhaust system:
Steering shaft clearance:
Cooling is easy. Go with CPW's Radiator/Fan/AC condensor setup
Wiring: CPW's harness will integrate any and all options and can be made emissions legal, if necessary.
I'd recommend a coil-over type conversion for the front and remove the torsion bars. This will give you a lot more room under the truck.
Custom Oil Pan:
Exhaust system:
Steering shaft clearance:
Cooling is easy. Go with CPW's Radiator/Fan/AC condensor setup
Wiring: CPW's harness will integrate any and all options and can be made emissions legal, if necessary.
I'd recommend a coil-over type conversion for the front and remove the torsion bars. This will give you a lot more room under the truck.
Hell no.. Those pics were very helpful!
Philntx - Where can I get a oil pan like that? I Plan to swap a LS series motor into my 96 Suburban just not sure if I want to tackle the project or pay someone to do the work.
Philntx - Where can I get a oil pan like that? I Plan to swap a LS series motor into my 96 Suburban just not sure if I want to tackle the project or pay someone to do the work.
That pan started as an aluminum pan from Canton. 40 hours later, it is the pan it is now. Unfortunately, it's a "one-off" pan.
If you are going to an LS type motor in an earlier full size. It's a piece of cake. Just use an oil pan from either the Hummer H3 Alpha or a truck pan.
On Performance Truck.net forums, there are conversion like this on there. Try http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-truck-conversions/
If you are going to an LS type motor in an earlier full size. It's a piece of cake. Just use an oil pan from either the Hummer H3 Alpha or a truck pan.
On Performance Truck.net forums, there are conversion like this on there. Try http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-truck-conversions/
Thanks for the info... Im hoping to perform this swap eventually but really want a strong base of what it will take before I tackle that project. I will check out that site as well I think Im already a member.
It isn't installed in this picture yet. It fits and works perfect, but again, is a custom/hybrid shaft. The transfer case is an NP246 unit and the front axle is an S10.
The header primary tubes loop around the driveshaft.
Even though the angle of this picture makes it appear that there isn't enough clearance, there actually is....
