are you making your own headers to clear? 
C5 LS-1 in a '72 Maverick
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TECH Junkie
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From: Port Neches, TX
C5 LS-1 in a '72 Maverick Hi All,
My project has finally progressed to the point of engine mounting. It was a day of tribulations for sure. After seeing how huge the engine bay looks with the shock towers gone you'd think it would just swallow an LS motor, but the engine & trans (200R4) had to be separated to get them in. Then I had to remove the CTSV pan and reinstall my spare truck pan for better clearance around the crossmember (which thankfully it doesn't hang too low for comfort). The trans fit without any hammering, but it was a "force" with the floor jack on the last little bit. The tunnel will need some minor hammering and an odd "ear" will need to be lopped off the case. The trans mount is about 8" rearward of the original (no problem there). The alternator sticks up above the fender line, but still clears the hood by 1/2". The hood will definitely need a hole cut for carb clearance.
A couple of points for opinion:
The engine sits at a 7° rear-down angle, is this too much?
Frame rails are 26 1/2" wide, any ideas on headers (will need to clear steering column)?
TIA!
Russ
My project has finally progressed to the point of engine mounting. It was a day of tribulations for sure. After seeing how huge the engine bay looks with the shock towers gone you'd think it would just swallow an LS motor, but the engine & trans (200R4) had to be separated to get them in. Then I had to remove the CTSV pan and reinstall my spare truck pan for better clearance around the crossmember (which thankfully it doesn't hang too low for comfort). The trans fit without any hammering, but it was a "force" with the floor jack on the last little bit. The tunnel will need some minor hammering and an odd "ear" will need to be lopped off the case. The trans mount is about 8" rearward of the original (no problem there). The alternator sticks up above the fender line, but still clears the hood by 1/2". The hood will definitely need a hole cut for carb clearance.
A couple of points for opinion:
The engine sits at a 7° rear-down angle, is this too much?
Frame rails are 26 1/2" wide, any ideas on headers (will need to clear steering column)?
TIA!
Russ
I don't know if you have already figured out a mounting solution but I have these universal street rod mount that you could hang from the frame rails or mount from that crossmember.
http://carshop.carshopinc.com/produc..._id/86960/2350
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http://carshop.carshopinc.com/produc..._id/86960/2350
I don't think the 7º tilt will be too much, as long as your diff points up the same 7° to get the driveline angles right.
You may want to hook the transmission up and see what type of ground clearance it will give before you settle for that much tilt.
I've see shorty headers for LS swaps into Datsun Z cars that might clear that steering shaft. the drivers' side comes back pretty far and really hugs the block. The passenger's side one has no hope of clearing the crossmember though.
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Par...1-Headers.html
You may want to hook the transmission up and see what type of ground clearance it will give before you settle for that much tilt.
I've see shorty headers for LS swaps into Datsun Z cars that might clear that steering shaft. the drivers' side comes back pretty far and really hugs the block. The passenger's side one has no hope of clearing the crossmember though.
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Par...1-Headers.html
the angle is a good question. i have heard diff stories , both claiming to be correct. one said the neither angle should be more than 3-4 degrees because the u joints will not work well at that extreme of an angle, the other said the same but here's were they differ.
the first source said the trans and the diff should equal zero (say down 3 on the trans and up 3 on the diff). dut the other source i read said that the angle you measure is from the drive shaft to the appropriate end angle(eg the rans or the diff).
so do you measure the angle form the shaft to the trans or the trans to the vehicle level?
the first source said the trans and the diff should equal zero (say down 3 on the trans and up 3 on the diff). dut the other source i read said that the angle you measure is from the drive shaft to the appropriate end angle(eg the rans or the diff).
so do you measure the angle form the shaft to the trans or the trans to the vehicle level?
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
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From: Port Neches, TX
Russ
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Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (11)
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From: Port Neches, TX
I used Transdapt mounts that look the same as yours, CarShop. Unfortunately I bought them before this thread...and yours are quite a bit cheaper!
I got the tail of the tranny up an inch after cutting the tunnel, reduced the angle a whopping 1°. Now it's solidly mounted and the header hunt is on! Oh, and yes the mounts will be welded properly after the engine comes out (I'm not all that skilled welding out of position).
Russ
I got the tail of the tranny up an inch after cutting the tunnel, reduced the angle a whopping 1°. Now it's solidly mounted and the header hunt is on! Oh, and yes the mounts will be welded properly after the engine comes out (I'm not all that skilled welding out of position).
Russ
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Nice! Glad to see somebody else installing a LS with a Mustang II front suspension setup! I will be doing the same shortly, but instead of a maverick its a 65 Mustang. Good luck with your build, I'll be checking it out alot!
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2006
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[QUOTE=leonpiper69;9270254]
the first source said the trans and the diff should equal zero (say down 3 on the trans and up 3 on the diff). dut the other source i read said that the angle you measure is from the drive shaft to the appropriate end angle(eg the rans or the diff).QUOTE]
I think on the fords the angles of the trans and diff have to match. Ford offsets the diff to one side of the car. GM centers the diff and trans and offsets the levelness for the mismatch, And MoPar offsets the engine to the passenger side and centers the diff. This is so U-joint is spining constantly which some how prolongs life but not really sure why?
So take a look down the center line and check out your diff. Hope this helps a little
Graham
the first source said the trans and the diff should equal zero (say down 3 on the trans and up 3 on the diff). dut the other source i read said that the angle you measure is from the drive shaft to the appropriate end angle(eg the rans or the diff).QUOTE]
I think on the fords the angles of the trans and diff have to match. Ford offsets the diff to one side of the car. GM centers the diff and trans and offsets the levelness for the mismatch, And MoPar offsets the engine to the passenger side and centers the diff. This is so U-joint is spining constantly which some how prolongs life but not really sure why?
So take a look down the center line and check out your diff. Hope this helps a little
Graham
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TECH Junkie
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From: Port Neches, TX
6 months later... ...she's almost home. Painted in PPG Ford "Sonic Blue Pearl" and with the body almost assembled. Should get her back next week for drivetrain, wiring and final assembly.
Russ
Russ
Nice! Now im patiently waiting for a video of that beast running! On a side note did you run your heater hose under the fender? I have to come up with a solution for that at some point with my swap too.
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
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From: Port Neches, TX
Yup, heater and A/C lines are up inside the fender.
Russ
