Just your average Ls1/T56 stripped RX7 With Plans of Racing
05-28-2009, 03:34 PM
#141
good **** man. As I was reading I knew your vibrations had to be your drive shaft. I had the same thing happen to me in my conquest when the u joints were changed. I'm glad you got it all figured out, I can't wait to finish my car...
05-29-2009, 02:33 PM
#142
Man I just read this whole thread. You have had quite a time fixing all the small problems. I am looking to do an LSx7 swap. Did the granny stuff fit pretty well? I was just wondering if it was pretty easy to just sit the motor into place after you get the right Kmember?
05-29-2009, 07:05 PM
#143
Man I just read this whole thread. You have had quite a time fixing all the small problems. I am looking to do an LSx7 swap. Did the granny stuff fit pretty well? I was just wondering if it was pretty easy to just sit the motor into place after you get the right Kmember?
My grannys cradle didnt fit perfectly and I had to stretch it out about half an inch to make it fit though and that threw me through a loop
If you want to make your swap easy heres some tips, but a NICE Rx7 one that it preferribly stock or at least something someone has not torn into.
Get your driveshaft from a vendor or get it from a super reputable shop (most local yokal shops cant do performance applications
Get a good tuner and have all the unimportant stuff tuned out as well as the anti theft system tuned out before you start.
Read a ton, chances are you wont have 1/10th the issues I did. Most of my issues were due to this being my first major project ever so I had to learn everything as I went then apply it to the project, usually screw it up cause I'm still learning and then have to do it again
07-18-2009, 10:08 PM
#144
So today I did my second autox event and it was an interesting one. Got there and it was absolutly pouring. THe first group out had lots of spins and kinda got jipped. By the time I got out though it had cleared up and was dry out. I feel like I didnt really improve all that much from last time. Maybe smoother now, but I cant seem to balance smoothness and agressiveness. I can run one run and be super agressive and then be super smooth but slow and run the same times the next run. I cant seem to do both of them at the same time though to get the most out of the car. The first pass of the day I was trying to get a feel for a long course (about a mile I would guess) SO I took an instructor.
Got it on vid
YouTube - Day at the races.
Run felt slow and I got a little confused in a couple places. I pulled a 1:45 that lap+4 LOL. So basically almost 2 minutes. Really bad.
But it improved from there. I then pulled a 1:40 the next lap
Got that one on vid
YouTube - Day at the races 2.
and a 1:36 +1 that would have been my best lap if I didnt clip that cone.
Although these times were getting better most of the miatas were in the 1:30s and the fast ones were in the 1:20s so I was basically keeping up with almost stock, lightly modified miatas on similar street tires. There was another FC there with what looked like coilovers pulling 1:35s so I really wanted to beat those times at least but no avail I ended up pulling 2 1:37s and was a little dissapointed as the miatas seemed to get faster and I really didnt.
Towards the end of the day my buddy was taking lots of pics so I said I'de do a little drifting to get a good shot well instead of drifting my tires must have really been sticking and I prob didnt give it enough gusto so I nailed it and it slipped and then stuck and snapped me back the other way, sending me off course and ending my run right at the end.
YouTube - Day at the races 3
hopefully this shows I'm somewhat looking ahead. I'm working on it
So after getting my runs in for the day they did some fun runs and one of the instructors came up to me earlier in the day, actually the first guy to do a ride along with me last week who is a damn good driver. Other people were telling me multiple time national champ in his class and hes been Autoxing for close to 20 years. Today though was his first time racing a RWD car, he usually runs a CRX. He really wanted to drive a car with some *****. I went for a ride with him first and this guy literally bent the laws of physics.. I meen almost every turn I was pretty much sure he was just going to understeer off the course or spin it, but he got it to turn in like I couldent all day. My car whatever I'm doing makes it push through the corners. He actually got on the gas too hard and drifted way wide off the course. Even with that mistake what was his time. 1:30 even. He just knocked 7 seconds off my best time while making a pretty big mistake, on his like 5th run ever in a rwd car.
I then thought itd be good to have my buddy who set up all these vids and took 600 pics today get to have some fun. So I sent him out with the video camera.
This run he didnt make any obvious mistakes and we were hoping for a high 1:2X pass but there was a timing error.
YouTube - Day at the races 6
The instructor was literally giddy, god talk about horsepower deprivation. He loved the RWD and the power compared to his stock class CRX. He handed the car over to another instructor who usually drives a RWD car assuring that he should be able to pull even better times. I rode along this time and this guy was having all the same problems I was with the car understeering.. and really not going much faster than me, but again a timing error, ended up with no time. At this point my tires are sizzling, my brakes are making noises, and the engine at the end of that run is reading 249 degree coolant temp so we shut it down immediatly and were done for the day.
After talking to the initial instructor. I asked why he was on the brakes all the time, turns out he drove my RX7 the same way he does his CRX and did a lot of left foot braking/ trail braking.. and that seems to be the only way to get the car to turn in.. and I meen the difference it makes is MASSIVE. So I guess my question is why is my car pushing through the corners so much? I dont know how to sucessfully left foot brake yet but it seems like this is counter intuitive for a RWD car but obviously works AMAZINGLY.
I will post results and pics when they are up. Overall really good day and I got burned to **** again
Got it on vid
YouTube - Day at the races.
Run felt slow and I got a little confused in a couple places. I pulled a 1:45 that lap+4 LOL. So basically almost 2 minutes. Really bad.
But it improved from there. I then pulled a 1:40 the next lap
Got that one on vid
YouTube - Day at the races 2.
and a 1:36 +1 that would have been my best lap if I didnt clip that cone.
Although these times were getting better most of the miatas were in the 1:30s and the fast ones were in the 1:20s so I was basically keeping up with almost stock, lightly modified miatas on similar street tires. There was another FC there with what looked like coilovers pulling 1:35s so I really wanted to beat those times at least but no avail I ended up pulling 2 1:37s and was a little dissapointed as the miatas seemed to get faster and I really didnt.
Towards the end of the day my buddy was taking lots of pics so I said I'de do a little drifting to get a good shot well instead of drifting my tires must have really been sticking and I prob didnt give it enough gusto so I nailed it and it slipped and then stuck and snapped me back the other way, sending me off course and ending my run right at the end.
YouTube - Day at the races 3
hopefully this shows I'm somewhat looking ahead. I'm working on it
So after getting my runs in for the day they did some fun runs and one of the instructors came up to me earlier in the day, actually the first guy to do a ride along with me last week who is a damn good driver. Other people were telling me multiple time national champ in his class and hes been Autoxing for close to 20 years. Today though was his first time racing a RWD car, he usually runs a CRX. He really wanted to drive a car with some *****. I went for a ride with him first and this guy literally bent the laws of physics.. I meen almost every turn I was pretty much sure he was just going to understeer off the course or spin it, but he got it to turn in like I couldent all day. My car whatever I'm doing makes it push through the corners. He actually got on the gas too hard and drifted way wide off the course. Even with that mistake what was his time. 1:30 even. He just knocked 7 seconds off my best time while making a pretty big mistake, on his like 5th run ever in a rwd car.
I then thought itd be good to have my buddy who set up all these vids and took 600 pics today get to have some fun. So I sent him out with the video camera.
This run he didnt make any obvious mistakes and we were hoping for a high 1:2X pass but there was a timing error.
YouTube - Day at the races 6
The instructor was literally giddy, god talk about horsepower deprivation. He loved the RWD and the power compared to his stock class CRX. He handed the car over to another instructor who usually drives a RWD car assuring that he should be able to pull even better times. I rode along this time and this guy was having all the same problems I was with the car understeering.. and really not going much faster than me, but again a timing error, ended up with no time. At this point my tires are sizzling, my brakes are making noises, and the engine at the end of that run is reading 249 degree coolant temp so we shut it down immediatly and were done for the day.
After talking to the initial instructor. I asked why he was on the brakes all the time, turns out he drove my RX7 the same way he does his CRX and did a lot of left foot braking/ trail braking.. and that seems to be the only way to get the car to turn in.. and I meen the difference it makes is MASSIVE. So I guess my question is why is my car pushing through the corners so much? I dont know how to sucessfully left foot brake yet but it seems like this is counter intuitive for a RWD car but obviously works AMAZINGLY.
I will post results and pics when they are up. Overall really good day and I got burned to **** again
08-23-2009, 09:34 PM
#147
Sorry man I never saw this post.
My T2 rear end has been holding up great (knock on wood) Street tires dont seem to provide enough traction to give it any troubles and at the track I use Bias plys to keep it from wheel hopping and it seems to be fine. When I pull 1.7 60's thats hooking and absolutly bogging out of the hole. Bogging is a lot harder on parts than spinning so its been pretty good. I just need to grow a pair and launch it at like 5500-6000 instead of 4500 and if it hooks I think I'll sail well into deep 1.6 60's if not high 1.5s
My T2 rear end has been holding up great (knock on wood) Street tires dont seem to provide enough traction to give it any troubles and at the track I use Bias plys to keep it from wheel hopping and it seems to be fine. When I pull 1.7 60's thats hooking and absolutly bogging out of the hole. Bogging is a lot harder on parts than spinning so its been pretty good. I just need to grow a pair and launch it at like 5500-6000 instead of 4500 and if it hooks I think I'll sail well into deep 1.6 60's if not high 1.5s
03-26-2010, 08:42 PM
#148
So I havent touched the car at all this winter and the reduced budget (trying to invest more of my money into things that will actuall pay me back)
and hours are keeping my goals much smaller but I'm still getting a few really good things done.
Pulling the engine/tranny right now
This was the motor after about 3 hours (I actually felt like I knew what I was doing and everything just came appart)
break down
also found the reason why the car was rolling so much in the corners last year once I got under the car.
Well theres your problem right there
Either the bolt loosened up and fell out or got pulled out and the bracket was bent out of the way and the sway bar was just hanging by the end links
Pulling the motor to rebuild the tranny/ replace the clutch. put a cam in the motor which should bring me up around 400whp. I am putting coilovers on the car and upgrading the brakes and improving the steering. I am hunting down the slop in any part of the car and eliminating it.
and hours are keeping my goals much smaller but I'm still getting a few really good things done.
Pulling the engine/tranny right now
This was the motor after about 3 hours (I actually felt like I knew what I was doing and everything just came appart)
break down
also found the reason why the car was rolling so much in the corners last year once I got under the car.
Well theres your problem right there
Either the bolt loosened up and fell out or got pulled out and the bracket was bent out of the way and the sway bar was just hanging by the end links
Pulling the motor to rebuild the tranny/ replace the clutch. put a cam in the motor which should bring me up around 400whp. I am putting coilovers on the car and upgrading the brakes and improving the steering. I am hunting down the slop in any part of the car and eliminating it.
03-26-2010, 08:48 PM
#149
Well had a great day today in the garage..
Was working on changing the valve springs and I remembered why I refuse to shop or rent tools from advanced auto. They sell/rent the biggest peice of **** tools known to ****** man.
The tear down was goin ok
I try the valvespring tool which the spring slipped off ****** spring the first time right as I'm pulling the retainer, and nearly hit me in the eye with the retainer at high speed (luckily I found it and grabbed some safety glasses)
Even after modifying the tool so the spring wouldent slip through the middle with a few taps from the sledge it still wouldent center the spring around the vave so I couldent get the retainer on it, the spring was getting twaked from the side and boom
Please tell me there is a better tool out there, this thing even when getting the job done was bitching up everything it touched.
after breaking the valve spring I decided to call it quits till I got a better tool to work with and turn my attention to the steering rack, which I depowered once but never welded it so its got all the steering effort of a depowered rack with all the slop of a power rack. So I go about pulling it appart and break the ****** snap ring on the thing.. snap rings are hard enough when you have the 2 holes to put the tool in, with one snapped off I dont know how I'm gonna get it out of there. Mother ******.. after 5 hours I put myself farther away than when I started. This car is deff not gonna be ready for race season.
Was working on changing the valve springs and I remembered why I refuse to shop or rent tools from advanced auto. They sell/rent the biggest peice of **** tools known to ****** man.
The tear down was goin ok
I try the valvespring tool which the spring slipped off ****** spring the first time right as I'm pulling the retainer, and nearly hit me in the eye with the retainer at high speed (luckily I found it and grabbed some safety glasses)
Even after modifying the tool so the spring wouldent slip through the middle with a few taps from the sledge it still wouldent center the spring around the vave so I couldent get the retainer on it, the spring was getting twaked from the side and boom
Please tell me there is a better tool out there, this thing even when getting the job done was bitching up everything it touched.
after breaking the valve spring I decided to call it quits till I got a better tool to work with and turn my attention to the steering rack, which I depowered once but never welded it so its got all the steering effort of a depowered rack with all the slop of a power rack. So I go about pulling it appart and break the ****** snap ring on the thing.. snap rings are hard enough when you have the 2 holes to put the tool in, with one snapped off I dont know how I'm gonna get it out of there. Mother ******.. after 5 hours I put myself farther away than when I started. This car is deff not gonna be ready for race season.
03-26-2010, 08:54 PM
#150
I have tims tool on order.
But I called PAC and I got an engineer on the phone. He sounded genuinly shocked and concerned when I told him about the broken valvespring. He said he flat out has never heard of one of the 1518 springs breaking, saying it was the best spring they make for the ls1.
He wants me to send the whole set back and just be sure it was actually one of their springs. He just wants to be sure someone didnt throw some cheap springs in a box and say it was their springs. If its their spring though he said he'll shoot out another set immediatly. I did buy them from my tuner so I dont think thats the case but I really appreciate that they are taking them back at their expense.
Got some toys in the mail today
Got the BC coilovers from www.importimageracing.com and talked to Josh over there. Good guy who has experience with FCs. He used to own a Turbo 2. He is also very familiar with his products. He was out of stock when I called him and although I never order something when its out of stock. he assured me that if he ordered it from taiwan it would be here in 2 weeks and I let him know I'de annoy the **** outta him if it didnt come in that time period and that racing season was coming up. What do yah know but 2 weeks later they were at my door. And they would have been there significantly sooner if he actually had them in stock.
From just taking them outta the box it looks like if these are cheap coilovers that have shitty valving (which I've heard a few times) then they didnt spare a dime on the rest of the assembly. Absolutly top notch quality look and feel to the product. I will have more info when I get them out on the road. I dont know if I'll get the car corner weighted before the first event or just go there and see how it goes with a basic alignment. Finding corner scales around these parts isnt easy and I havent even looked into how much it'd be, but nothin performance is easy/cheap around here.
Looks like it has enough height adjustment too to raise the car higher than stock and lower than I'de ever want to go. Hell I may just get some 28" slicks and jack the back end up super high for an ultra raked look with rediculous tires out back for the drag strip.
I also got a brake proportioning valve from flyin miata with their conversion for 10mm lines. I also got some HP+ pads and polyurethane front control arm bushings.
Picking up the cam package and Monster stage 3 clutch with lightweight flywheel this weekend from the tuner.
But I called PAC and I got an engineer on the phone. He sounded genuinly shocked and concerned when I told him about the broken valvespring. He said he flat out has never heard of one of the 1518 springs breaking, saying it was the best spring they make for the ls1.
He wants me to send the whole set back and just be sure it was actually one of their springs. He just wants to be sure someone didnt throw some cheap springs in a box and say it was their springs. If its their spring though he said he'll shoot out another set immediatly. I did buy them from my tuner so I dont think thats the case but I really appreciate that they are taking them back at their expense.
Got some toys in the mail today
Got the BC coilovers from www.importimageracing.com and talked to Josh over there. Good guy who has experience with FCs. He used to own a Turbo 2. He is also very familiar with his products. He was out of stock when I called him and although I never order something when its out of stock. he assured me that if he ordered it from taiwan it would be here in 2 weeks and I let him know I'de annoy the **** outta him if it didnt come in that time period and that racing season was coming up. What do yah know but 2 weeks later they were at my door. And they would have been there significantly sooner if he actually had them in stock.
From just taking them outta the box it looks like if these are cheap coilovers that have shitty valving (which I've heard a few times) then they didnt spare a dime on the rest of the assembly. Absolutly top notch quality look and feel to the product. I will have more info when I get them out on the road. I dont know if I'll get the car corner weighted before the first event or just go there and see how it goes with a basic alignment. Finding corner scales around these parts isnt easy and I havent even looked into how much it'd be, but nothin performance is easy/cheap around here.
Looks like it has enough height adjustment too to raise the car higher than stock and lower than I'de ever want to go. Hell I may just get some 28" slicks and jack the back end up super high for an ultra raked look with rediculous tires out back for the drag strip.
I also got a brake proportioning valve from flyin miata with their conversion for 10mm lines. I also got some HP+ pads and polyurethane front control arm bushings.
Picking up the cam package and Monster stage 3 clutch with lightweight flywheel this weekend from the tuner.
03-26-2010, 08:56 PM
#151
Been sick all week and called in sick today but other than sounding like a 3 pack a day smoker right now and hackin up yellow/green ****. I feel pretty decent. So I swung by my tuner and picked up the custom grind cam and pushrods. Clutch is coming on Monday.
I also dropped off my old clutch to see if he could figure out if something is wrong with it.
I also decided to work on the car. It takes an hour to get there and back and I only got about 3 hours of work in but I made the most of it. Got the car up on jackstands, wheels off, got the set of valvesprings that broke off the engine, put a 160 degree thermostat in, pulled the steering rack appart, and installed the suspension in just 3 hours. I would say thats pretty decent rate of work for the sick kid. I love when you actually feel like you get something accomplished at the end of the day.
They are deff the cleanest thing on the car.
Quite a bit shorter than the old KYB AGX/ Racing beat setup
Got the rack appart, gotta cut the seals out and weld it up. as stated in this write up
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=54847
I also dropped off my old clutch to see if he could figure out if something is wrong with it.
I also decided to work on the car. It takes an hour to get there and back and I only got about 3 hours of work in but I made the most of it. Got the car up on jackstands, wheels off, got the set of valvesprings that broke off the engine, put a 160 degree thermostat in, pulled the steering rack appart, and installed the suspension in just 3 hours. I would say thats pretty decent rate of work for the sick kid. I love when you actually feel like you get something accomplished at the end of the day.
They are deff the cleanest thing on the car.
Quite a bit shorter than the old KYB AGX/ Racing beat setup
Got the rack appart, gotta cut the seals out and weld it up. as stated in this write up
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=54847
03-27-2010, 08:52 AM
#152
Looks good. Great build. That write up on the rack mod looked very detailed
03-27-2010, 07:34 PM
#153
This long sick weekend has been good for productivity. Put in another honest 3 hours and battled the front control arm bushings and won. Cut off the old ones which smoked me outta the garage and melted and created a tar like material that has permentnantly stained my hands. Got some in my hair and pulling it out took the hair with it. But I now have mostly solid/poly bushings throughout the car. I went with polyurethane with these bushings. I was looking for delrin but it seemed like a couple places I called didnt have them in stock and after getting these poly ones it seems like they used a particularly stiff durometer poly for these so I doubt I'll notice a difference and the generally longer life of the poly is nice seeing as everybody hates doing bushing jobs.
03-27-2010, 10:03 PM
#154
Launching!
Great updates, always good to see good progress made at the end of the day 
My trans is out of the GTA right now, getting the syncros done. Cant wait to be able to go into whatever gear i want to with no crunching. Definitely want to hear how those coilovers change the car.
My trans is out of the GTA right now, getting the syncros done. Cant wait to be able to go into whatever gear i want to with no crunching. Definitely want to hear how those coilovers change the car.
05-15-2010, 04:31 PM
#155
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hey sciff, I was just curious, hows your differential holding up? I got a similar set up as you and I keep breaking stub axles.....I believe its from too much wheel hop....I ordered all new poly and delrin bushings and also doing the pinion snubber mod....hopefully it will fix the wheel hop problem...let me know what you think as it seems you got more experience with this set up, thanks...
91 ls1/t56 Rx7
ls6 intake/throttle body
smog equip. removed
88 t2 lsd(clutch type)
91 ls1/t56 Rx7
ls6 intake/throttle body
smog equip. removed
88 t2 lsd(clutch type)
05-23-2010, 09:28 PM
#156
Got some work done lately
Monster Stage 3
and
Custom 228/232 slowhawk cam.
Don ran this same cam in his 3650lb camaro and ran 11.1 at 117. Only difference is he had TSP stge 2.5 5.3L heads, but with about an 850lb weight advantage I should be able to touch 10s if I do my part as a driver.
Pics
Corvette style pedistal mounts, bolted to the factory mounting locations for the rotary. Very clean and EXCELLENT fit
Here are the adapters to use the Corvette pedistal mounts
Old Shitty grannys cradle that never fit, then I abused it and beat it till it kinda fit. but it was junk from the beinning
Finally just about complete
Getting it back together, starting to look like an engine but look at those wires/hoses other crap, ls1s really are not tidy looking engines with all the wiring.
Engine going in
Transmission bolted up
Had to take the clutch flywheel off to get the oil pan back on
Improved racing oil pan baffle
Monster Stage 3
Monster Stage 3
and
Custom 228/232 slowhawk cam.
Don ran this same cam in his 3650lb camaro and ran 11.1 at 117. Only difference is he had TSP stge 2.5 5.3L heads, but with about an 850lb weight advantage I should be able to touch 10s if I do my part as a driver.
Pics
Corvette style pedistal mounts, bolted to the factory mounting locations for the rotary. Very clean and EXCELLENT fit
Here are the adapters to use the Corvette pedistal mounts
Old Shitty grannys cradle that never fit, then I abused it and beat it till it kinda fit. but it was junk from the beinning
Finally just about complete
Getting it back together, starting to look like an engine but look at those wires/hoses other crap, ls1s really are not tidy looking engines with all the wiring.
Engine going in
Transmission bolted up
Had to take the clutch flywheel off to get the oil pan back on
Improved racing oil pan baffle
Monster Stage 3
Last edited by sciff5; 05-23-2010 at 09:34 PM.
05-23-2010, 09:42 PM
#157
Worked a cool 16 hours this weekend at least on the car. I would say I was pretty sucessful for working mostly alone.
Pulled the engine
Pulled grannys shitty cradle out
Bolted in Pezs great mounts
Put the engine back in
Bolted the intake fuel rails coilpacks, and headers back on.
cleaned up the wiring a bit
connected all the wires hoses and other connections
Bled the clutch and brakes
Connected back up the exhaust
Put the driveshaft back in
Filled everything with fluids
Flushed the coolant
Fixed a short
Started her up and man does it sound awsome with the new custom 228/232 XER LSA 112 cam from my tuner. His 3650lb camaro ran 11.1 at 117 with the same setup except it also had untouched TSP stg 2.5 5.3L heads. At 850lbs lighter race weight my car should tickle 10s if I do my part right.
Vid (doesnt do it any justice, it plain sounds nasty in comparison to before and wierdly revs quicker even though I went with a heavier flywheel)
228/232 Ls1 T56 RX7 First Warm Start
The car sounds drastically different when revving. Its just plain nasty now. I am surprised though because although this cam works its pretty tame. Lift is under .600
Also I bought a speed bleeder for my slave and bled my clutch in literally less than 5 minutes. Deff worth the investment. The Monster stage 3 from first impression I like it A LOT more than the old Textralia Oz700. Just the feel of the clutch seems better. The Oz700 was stiff but unlike a factory clutch it just stayed stiff and didnt really break away like more factory clutches do. This Monster "breaks away" if that makes any sense and has feel when it disengages. It also requires less pedal pressure than the Oz700. It still is yet to be seen where the engagement point is with the monster, If its decent I'll be happier than a pig in ****.
Pulled the engine
Pulled grannys shitty cradle out
Bolted in Pezs great mounts
Put the engine back in
Bolted the intake fuel rails coilpacks, and headers back on.
cleaned up the wiring a bit
connected all the wires hoses and other connections
Bled the clutch and brakes
Connected back up the exhaust
Put the driveshaft back in
Filled everything with fluids
Flushed the coolant
Fixed a short
Started her up and man does it sound awsome with the new custom 228/232 XER LSA 112 cam from my tuner. His 3650lb camaro ran 11.1 at 117 with the same setup except it also had untouched TSP stg 2.5 5.3L heads. At 850lbs lighter race weight my car should tickle 10s if I do my part right.
Vid (doesnt do it any justice, it plain sounds nasty in comparison to before and wierdly revs quicker even though I went with a heavier flywheel)
228/232 Ls1 T56 RX7 First Warm Start
The car sounds drastically different when revving. Its just plain nasty now. I am surprised though because although this cam works its pretty tame. Lift is under .600
Also I bought a speed bleeder for my slave and bled my clutch in literally less than 5 minutes. Deff worth the investment. The Monster stage 3 from first impression I like it A LOT more than the old Textralia Oz700. Just the feel of the clutch seems better. The Oz700 was stiff but unlike a factory clutch it just stayed stiff and didnt really break away like more factory clutches do. This Monster "breaks away" if that makes any sense and has feel when it disengages. It also requires less pedal pressure than the Oz700. It still is yet to be seen where the engagement point is with the monster, If its decent I'll be happier than a pig in ****.
10-21-2010, 10:49 PM
#159
I did end up selling the BBK headers a while back
To give everyone an update this season I didnt get out much. Just enjoyed the car a lot. Drove it to work 3 days a week and scared a couple co-workers with it.
The Monster 3 clutch worked out well this season and the cam makes better top end power but the car still doesnt feel that quick even with about 400whp.
Did a lot of small modifications to generally help it better deal with the streeses of road racing. Brakes pads, cooling system, ducting ect.
I only got her out to the autox twice and I did a HPDE. For both I had plenty of power and the car was more than I could handle at least for now although I'm sure a few more HPDEs and I'd get a lot more comfortable. My first one was in the rain. In a 4.10 geared 400whp rx7 with no stability control no ABS no PS nothing, can be a bit crazy.
The HPDE was fun and the car was dominating everything in the straights and blowing the tires off at half throttle down the straight in 4th when the rain was falling.
A video and some pics from the season
AutoX (I had a bit of a mishap and took out the timing gear which wiped my Autox budget for the rest of the season)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MY9g2WhoyDM
And the HPDE a few weeks later. I was passing some pretty fast cars out there but I think most of them were paired with some pretty slow drivers.
As you can see the paint has just decided to start coming off in sections. I guess this is pretty common and due to just poor painting from the factory.
Probably time for a new roller at some point soon with good paint.
I have one other opportunity to race on halloween at Lime Rock but my buddy is coming back from afghanistan and I told him we'd go trick or treating (trying to get his mind off some of the fucked **** I'm sure most veterans see overseas)
On to next year. Plans for the car this winter are minimal. Just clean up and tuning work. Or swapping to a new chassis if I find a good donor.
Its been a good season
To give everyone an update this season I didnt get out much. Just enjoyed the car a lot. Drove it to work 3 days a week and scared a couple co-workers with it.
The Monster 3 clutch worked out well this season and the cam makes better top end power but the car still doesnt feel that quick even with about 400whp.
Did a lot of small modifications to generally help it better deal with the streeses of road racing. Brakes pads, cooling system, ducting ect.
I only got her out to the autox twice and I did a HPDE. For both I had plenty of power and the car was more than I could handle at least for now although I'm sure a few more HPDEs and I'd get a lot more comfortable. My first one was in the rain. In a 4.10 geared 400whp rx7 with no stability control no ABS no PS nothing, can be a bit crazy.
The HPDE was fun and the car was dominating everything in the straights and blowing the tires off at half throttle down the straight in 4th when the rain was falling.
A video and some pics from the season
AutoX (I had a bit of a mishap and took out the timing gear which wiped my Autox budget for the rest of the season)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MY9g2WhoyDM
And the HPDE a few weeks later. I was passing some pretty fast cars out there but I think most of them were paired with some pretty slow drivers.
As you can see the paint has just decided to start coming off in sections. I guess this is pretty common and due to just poor painting from the factory.
Probably time for a new roller at some point soon with good paint.
I have one other opportunity to race on halloween at Lime Rock but my buddy is coming back from afghanistan and I told him we'd go trick or treating (trying to get his mind off some of the fucked **** I'm sure most veterans see overseas)
On to next year. Plans for the car this winter are minimal. Just clean up and tuning work. Or swapping to a new chassis if I find a good donor.
Its been a good season
