opinions on socketless hoses for fuel
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From: Hudsonville, MI
opinions on socketless hoses for fuel As title reads, any opinions as to running the whole fuel system with Earls, Aeroquip or Russel socketless lines and connectors?
All my soft lines are Aeroquip socketless. I've put 1200mi on the car since 1/07, no problems. I've only heard of 1 guy ever having problems with the socketless hose, and the consensus is that he screwed it up installing the fittings: https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-injection/934214-aeroquip-socketless-hose-fc598-anyone-else-issues.html
Used the Eaton-AeroQuip Push-Lok also, works well. Hose is #FC-332-6 for the blue -6(3/8"). Its also available in black, which is #2556-6. Used it at the Vette FPR & radiator/tranny cooler connections.
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I'm running socketless russell fittings on my s10. The only difference I have noticed is that I am not digging wire braid out of my fingers and it was ton easier to install.
Socketless was the best part of my fuel system upgrade.Used 3/8" to 6AN versa-flares from hard lines at the fuel rail to the 6an and from the 3/8 hardline just back of the firewall.Can not remember if they were Aeroquip or Russell?
Just saw a post on another board, concerning the Parker "pushlok" hose.
"I just made up AN hoses for a TTA. Be SURE you blow a string through the hose after you install the ends, and tie a gun cleaning patch to the end of the string and dip it into laquer thinner and pull it through the hose. Repeat this untill the patch comes through clean. Then repeat a few more times. Aftermarket braided hose is VERY dirty inside. After you install the fittings, use a bright flashlight and look inside for flappers. I prefere Russel fittings over the cutter type Earls fittings. (incidentally Earls is a division of Parkers, so most hydraulic shops can get Earls at a decent price) Personal preference."
The poster also stated:
"If you use Push-lock hose, be sure it is rated for gasoline. Parker Push-lock hose is NOT rated for gasoline. It will work, but must be periodically inspected. Some folks are complaining about fuel vapor in thier garages when using braided steel AN hose, too. The only way to completely eliminate fuel vapors from escaping AN hose it to use TFE (teflon) external braid hose.
Reading these posts, indicates to me that the Earls "pushlok" hose may not be fuel compatible?? [The Earls website has about 8 different hose choices listed.]
NE1 know for sure??
I use ONLY the Aeroquip stuff, and have no problems w/ it.
"I just made up AN hoses for a TTA. Be SURE you blow a string through the hose after you install the ends, and tie a gun cleaning patch to the end of the string and dip it into laquer thinner and pull it through the hose. Repeat this untill the patch comes through clean. Then repeat a few more times. Aftermarket braided hose is VERY dirty inside. After you install the fittings, use a bright flashlight and look inside for flappers. I prefere Russel fittings over the cutter type Earls fittings. (incidentally Earls is a division of Parkers, so most hydraulic shops can get Earls at a decent price) Personal preference."
The poster also stated:
"If you use Push-lock hose, be sure it is rated for gasoline. Parker Push-lock hose is NOT rated for gasoline. It will work, but must be periodically inspected. Some folks are complaining about fuel vapor in thier garages when using braided steel AN hose, too. The only way to completely eliminate fuel vapors from escaping AN hose it to use TFE (teflon) external braid hose.
Reading these posts, indicates to me that the Earls "pushlok" hose may not be fuel compatible?? [The Earls website has about 8 different hose choices listed.]
NE1 know for sure??
I use ONLY the Aeroquip stuff, and have no problems w/ it.
my entire system is Summit brand. Works fine but I noticed some weird slime stuff under the hose clamps im using to secure it to the frame on its way from the fuel cell to the engine compartment. Im pretty sure its just from the rubber on the clamps, but weird nontheless.
PS. I always blow new lines out with compressed air before installing them.
PS. I always blow new lines out with compressed air before installing them.
