My carbed 6.0L L92 s-10 at the track
#82
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if i ever build another carbed vehicle it will have another predator on it
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until you actually see how this carb works its hard to explain, it really doesnt need an idle circuit or a choke and that is why it doesnt have one, it works totally off of air flow
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i purchased 2 of them used, 1 had the idle circuit and the other did not, i tried both of them and they both ran fine, even the 1 that did not have the idle circuit would idle fine at 850-950rpm
until you actually see how this carb works its hard to explain, it really doesnt need an idle circuit or a choke and that is why it doesnt have one, it works totally off of air flow
until you actually see how this carb works its hard to explain, it really doesnt need an idle circuit or a choke and that is why it doesnt have one, it works totally off of air flow
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look at the pics of mine and you can see i had the float bowl to the rear, and that puts the linkage at the front of the engine, not too big of a deal if you have a long enough throttle cable
i didnt have any problems at all driving this carb on the street, i never did any high speed cornering, just normal street drining
there is only a couple moving parts in the carb, the flapper doors are held shut(spring tension) by a spring under the front cover of the carb, this spring adjustment controls how fast the doors open so you dont get a stumble or backfire, then in the float bowl the air flaps are connected to a fuel valve and cam(cams can be swaped for differrent fuel curves, most people use #1, they say if you want to run e-85 all you have to do is swap the cam to #3), the farther the flaps open the more fuel that is metered to the fuel plate
there is a fuel adj screw on top of the carb to adjust rich/lean, the adj is opposite most carbs, clockwise richens the mixture, counter clockwise leans the mixture, all this screw does is open or close the fuel valve a slight bit
![](http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/camaro1994/s-10newhood004.jpg)
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i know he called me and said he changed the rear suspension and after that he couldnt get the posi to lock, it was a brand new fms 8.8 posi,, but this was after he had made a bunch of runs with it
anyone know him?, is he on these boards, i know when he picked it up he said he was a ford guy and he had some mustangs and this was his first gm LS vehicle
anyone know him?, is he on these boards, i know when he picked it up he said he was a ford guy and he had some mustangs and this was his first gm LS vehicle
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if you set up the carb correctly you will be fine,, for street driving the instructions said to have the float bowl in the rear, for all out drag racing they said to have the float bowl in the front, and for mud trucks and climbing trucks the float bowl can go to the left or right
look at the pics of mine and you can see i had the float bowl to the rear, and that puts the linkage at the front of the engine, not too big of a deal if you have a long enough throttle cable
i didnt have any problems at all driving this carb on the street, i never did any high speed cornering, just normal street drining
there is only a couple moving parts in the carb, the flapper doors are held shut(spring tension) by a spring under the front cover of the carb, this spring adjustment controls how fast the doors open so you dont get a stumble or backfire, then in the float bowl the air flaps are connected to a fuel valve and cam(cams can be swaped for differrent fuel curves, most people use #1, they say if you want to run e-85 all you have to do is swap the cam to #3), the farther the flaps open the more fuel that is metered to the fuel plate
there is a fuel adj screw on top of the carb to adjust rich/lean, the adj is opposite most carbs, clockwise richens the mixture, counter clockwise leans the mixture, all this screw does is open or close the fuel valve a slight bit
![](http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/camaro1994/s-10newhood004.jpg)
look at the pics of mine and you can see i had the float bowl to the rear, and that puts the linkage at the front of the engine, not too big of a deal if you have a long enough throttle cable
i didnt have any problems at all driving this carb on the street, i never did any high speed cornering, just normal street drining
there is only a couple moving parts in the carb, the flapper doors are held shut(spring tension) by a spring under the front cover of the carb, this spring adjustment controls how fast the doors open so you dont get a stumble or backfire, then in the float bowl the air flaps are connected to a fuel valve and cam(cams can be swaped for differrent fuel curves, most people use #1, they say if you want to run e-85 all you have to do is swap the cam to #3), the farther the flaps open the more fuel that is metered to the fuel plate
there is a fuel adj screw on top of the carb to adjust rich/lean, the adj is opposite most carbs, clockwise richens the mixture, counter clockwise leans the mixture, all this screw does is open or close the fuel valve a slight bit
![](http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/camaro1994/s-10newhood004.jpg)
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engine vacuum/air flow will pull them open, they dont open with the throttle blades
you should be able to push down on the flaps and open them
you can download the complete tuning / install guide from the predator website