My 72 chevelle build thread
Wiring I have been working on the wiring while I have spare time at work. Time like this I am glad I work for myself.
Plan is to reroute the wires to run to the back of the motor so i can mount the PCM and fues bow under the dash.
Plan is to reroute the wires to run to the back of the motor so i can mount the PCM and fues bow under the dash.
Yeah.. that is what I did when I removed the extra wires and connectors, re-wapped the harness and I have the PCM mounted on top of the Trans Tunnel with a console hiding it, Gauges and Idiot light are also in the console.
Got some work done again. I am moving also and I have been working on the house so progress is slower than wanted.
Here are the oil coolers one for the trans and one for the engine oil.
Got the A/C firewall box out the way just need to plug the holes.
Here is my remote transmission filter I have the remote filter for the engine oil in the same place on the driverside.
That is most of what I got done. I tore out the carpet since it needed replacing anyway and I needed the room so it is easier to work with out the seats in the way.
Here are the oil coolers one for the trans and one for the engine oil.
Got the A/C firewall box out the way just need to plug the holes.
Here is my remote transmission filter I have the remote filter for the engine oil in the same place on the driverside.
That is most of what I got done. I tore out the carpet since it needed replacing anyway and I needed the room so it is easier to work with out the seats in the way.
Moving the motor home.
Getting it dropped in
In its new home
This is just a cool picture
Here is the Alt. clearance
Wiring "roughed it" Still need to remove a wire or two and try to make the lengths more uniform. The the ODBII port and fuse box.
Well I have been steadly working on it. I this I will get to fire it tonight or tomorrow. I will not get to drive it till my HPTuners Interface gets back it had problem of some kind. I still need to wire the Fuel pump up and hook the engine Fuse box to the coil wire to trigger the relay. here are a few updated pictures.
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well the walbro pump i bought from a member here is junk sounds like it have something loose in it and is not pumping. I just ordered a holley from the parts store they will have it tomorrow by noon.
the Holley pump is the GSL392 that walbro makes.. I got the car to start for the 3 sec that I can with the vats still on. hopfully HPtuners will get back today or tomorrow. here are a couple of videos the sounds does not do it justice.
View Video on FQuick
View Video on FQuick
View Video on FQuickView Video on FQuick Last edited by 72chevelle6.0; Jan 13, 2009 at 11:19 AM.
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 62
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Vats Any idea how VATS works on the LSx PCM's?
I am used to the OBD-1 version with a chip in the ignition key with a sensor module under the dash that can be physically bypassed with no software changes required. I did this with my 91 Camaro when I put a non-computer controlled engine in it to turn it into a drag car. The ECM was no longer in the car so even with the right chip in the original key it would not start. The VATS module just worked like a relay so I was able to bypass it so the ignition system functioned. The inverse should be true so you should be able to wire the PCM sensing wires to think the VATS module was present and working without it present.
If it is similar to the older systems then it could be as simple as supplying voltage to a sensing wire or connecting two wires going into the PCM to physically bypass VATS. Basically tricking the LSx PCM's so the system thought the VATS module was sensing the correct key all the time.
I am used to the OBD-1 version with a chip in the ignition key with a sensor module under the dash that can be physically bypassed with no software changes required. I did this with my 91 Camaro when I put a non-computer controlled engine in it to turn it into a drag car. The ECM was no longer in the car so even with the right chip in the original key it would not start. The VATS module just worked like a relay so I was able to bypass it so the ignition system functioned. The inverse should be true so you should be able to wire the PCM sensing wires to think the VATS module was present and working without it present.
If it is similar to the older systems then it could be as simple as supplying voltage to a sensing wire or connecting two wires going into the PCM to physically bypass VATS. Basically tricking the LSx PCM's so the system thought the VATS module was sensing the correct key all the time.
I think that on the LS1 PCMs you can get a device that can trick it but on truck I think it is a little more to then that. also since most people get their computers tuned anyway it is just easier to have it turned off.
ok I got it to Idle last night after lots of work. here is the video..maybe to night I will get to drive it.
View Video on FQuick
View Video on FQuick well I have been working on the tune with the help of a board member. so I have been driving it.. here a shot of it at work and a couple of the intake I made for it still need to make something to keep raod grime from the tire off the filter.
