LQ4 into a 3rd Gen/1972 Nova
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
No worries, that's what this thread is here for, to try and help.
I'm moving back to my hometown for the summer, so I will finally have lots of updates!!!
I'm moving back to my hometown for the summer, so I will finally have lots of updates!!!
I used the Carshop 1" setback mounts in my Nova. The motor is about an 1/8 away from the heater box on the pass. side. Everything lined up perfect. Was able the use the stock trans crossmember and drive shaft without any mods.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
Woohoo so I'm back at home for the summer and it's warm enough to open up the garage door and get some work done!!
A '95 S-10 radiator fits like a glove between the sub-frame rails, and should way outperform the original 37-year-old radiator..
I didn't realize exactly how little room there is to work with behind the grill on these short-nosed Nova's!
This is measured from the core support to the furthest point at the center of the filler trim piece below the grill.
This is the clearance distance at where the corner of my intercooler will be, and the IC is 3"!!
...Needless to say I'll want to open up the airflow hole in the core support and maybe section it back in order to allow flow thru to the rad and to "set back" the IC into a fabricated recess in the core support.
Finally, gotta LOVE how the more I "work" on this car, the more work ends up needing to be done! Stripped and gonna get sanded for a new engine bay paintjob...
A '95 S-10 radiator fits like a glove between the sub-frame rails, and should way outperform the original 37-year-old radiator..
I didn't realize exactly how little room there is to work with behind the grill on these short-nosed Nova's!
This is measured from the core support to the furthest point at the center of the filler trim piece below the grill.
This is the clearance distance at where the corner of my intercooler will be, and the IC is 3"!!
...Needless to say I'll want to open up the airflow hole in the core support and maybe section it back in order to allow flow thru to the rad and to "set back" the IC into a fabricated recess in the core support.
Finally, gotta LOVE how the more I "work" on this car, the more work ends up needing to be done! Stripped and gonna get sanded for a new engine bay paintjob...
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
So on a nice sunny Saturday, what else would I do but go grinding & sanding surface rust and 37-year-old paint off of parts of my car?
After 2 hours angle sanding the driver's inner fender, I have a new appreciation for body(ish) work. Good thing I don't have to resort to paying someone to do this!!
Now, to keep at this for the passenger-side inner fender, core support, and subframe. Fun times!!!
Also, now that I'm earning a bit of money again, I decided I'm not going to screw around piecing together an inexpensive junkyard disk brake upgrade set, and just bite it and bought some Wilwood stuff. Will update with pics when the kit arrives
I went to Killer Customs/SpeedTech in Pitt Meadows up here in BC... WOW is all I can say. After seeing how silly-low their camaros are at "normal ride height", I got even more inspiration for my build. Looks like it's gonna be prolonged a bit more 
After 2 hours angle sanding the driver's inner fender, I have a new appreciation for body(ish) work. Good thing I don't have to resort to paying someone to do this!!
Now, to keep at this for the passenger-side inner fender, core support, and subframe. Fun times!!!
Also, now that I'm earning a bit of money again, I decided I'm not going to screw around piecing together an inexpensive junkyard disk brake upgrade set, and just bite it and bought some Wilwood stuff. Will update with pics when the kit arrives
I went to Killer Customs/SpeedTech in Pitt Meadows up here in BC... WOW is all I can say. After seeing how silly-low their camaros are at "normal ride height", I got even more inspiration for my build. Looks like it's gonna be prolonged a bit more
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
Today I made a 1/4" Aluminum adapter plate to mate the Hydroboost to the existing firewall bolt holes of the manual master cylinder my car originally came with. The main hole is a little jagged I know, I couldn't holesaw it because of the tab for the keyway, so a good 'ol jigsaw and file got the job done reasonably well...
Mounted on the Hydroboost...
Painted the Hydroboost. I'm really excited to make the rest of the engine/bay these flat black/matte black/matte silver colors ...
Mounted on the Hydroboost...
Painted the Hydroboost. I'm really excited to make the rest of the engine/bay these flat black/matte black/matte silver colors ...
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11 Second Club
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 445
Likes: 1
From: New Westminster, B.C., Canada
here's where you can get a bellhousing. part number is RM-8020.
$ 481.50
http://www.quicktimeinc.com/products.html
ebay, $465
$ 481.50
http://www.quicktimeinc.com/products.html
ebay, $465
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
here's where you can get a bellhousing. part number is RM-8020.
$ 481.50
http://www.quicktimeinc.com/products.html
ebay, $465
$ 481.50
http://www.quicktimeinc.com/products.html
ebay, $465
I'll keep that in mind for sure.
I was going to go to Mopac and see what kinda price they can give me on a Lakewood one or whatever else they carry, to reduce the $shipping$ y'know...
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
Today I made an aluminum radiator shroud for the '95 S10 radiator I picked up a while ago. It's not perfect, but I'm happy with it considering I did the bends with a vice and a dead-blow hammer 
It's not fully complete, I still need to sand it to a dull finish, and pick up some stainless buttonhead fasteners.
Although it doesn't look it, the shroud is spaced out about 3/8" from the radiator fins so that the fan can suck air from all parts of the rad...
It's not fully complete, I still need to sand it to a dull finish, and pick up some stainless buttonhead fasteners.
Although it doesn't look it, the shroud is spaced out about 3/8" from the radiator fins so that the fan can suck air from all parts of the rad...
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Asheville, NC
<Quote>Transmission
I re-used the TH350 that came on the 305 which the car came with. Now I know I want a 5- or 6-speed in it, so I tried as hard as possible to spend little-to-no money on this stupid auto. It bolted up fine to the 6.0L flywheel (no spacers required, but unfortunately I ordered them before I found out I didn’t need them) BUT the mounting holes on the flywheel did need some love from a 7/16” drill bit to reduce the bolt circle diameter around ¼” overall. Also, I needed to use 1/8” washers between the torque converter and the flywheel to get it to bolt up. Because the engine was moved forward an inch, I needed to get the driveshaft lengthened, which even if it is a bit pricey is a good thing going from 2.75” x 0.050” to 3” x 0.063”. Additionally, I welded 3/8” plate onto the front of the original trans x-member and drilled slots, so that the 1-inch-further-forward trans mount would actually be supported by something!
(EDIT: after the one and only drive of this car with the new engine, it's now off the road until it has a T56 in it )</quote>
I'm doing an LQ4 swap into my nova and I want to reuse the stock powerglide for now (financial issues). Is it possible to bolt the engine up to the transmission in the tranny's stock location with the carshop mounts or do I have to get or fab up a transmission crossmember to bring everything forward? If the one inch kit worked on your th350 then it should work w/ the powerglide (although I may need that crankshaft adaptor plate and maybe a different flywheel).
Thanks all,
Mike
I re-used the TH350 that came on the 305 which the car came with. Now I know I want a 5- or 6-speed in it, so I tried as hard as possible to spend little-to-no money on this stupid auto. It bolted up fine to the 6.0L flywheel (no spacers required, but unfortunately I ordered them before I found out I didn’t need them) BUT the mounting holes on the flywheel did need some love from a 7/16” drill bit to reduce the bolt circle diameter around ¼” overall. Also, I needed to use 1/8” washers between the torque converter and the flywheel to get it to bolt up. Because the engine was moved forward an inch, I needed to get the driveshaft lengthened, which even if it is a bit pricey is a good thing going from 2.75” x 0.050” to 3” x 0.063”. Additionally, I welded 3/8” plate onto the front of the original trans x-member and drilled slots, so that the 1-inch-further-forward trans mount would actually be supported by something!
(EDIT: after the one and only drive of this car with the new engine, it's now off the road until it has a T56 in it )</quote>
I'm doing an LQ4 swap into my nova and I want to reuse the stock powerglide for now (financial issues). Is it possible to bolt the engine up to the transmission in the tranny's stock location with the carshop mounts or do I have to get or fab up a transmission crossmember to bring everything forward? If the one inch kit worked on your th350 then it should work w/ the powerglide (although I may need that crankshaft adaptor plate and maybe a different flywheel).
Thanks all,
Mike
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
I'm doing an LQ4 swap into my nova and I want to reuse the stock powerglide for now (financial issues). Is it possible to bolt the engine up to the transmission in the tranny's stock location with the carshop mounts or do I have to get or fab up a transmission crossmember to bring everything forward? If the one inch kit worked on your th350 then it should work w/ the powerglide (although I may need that crankshaft adaptor plate and maybe a different flywheel).
Thanks all,
Mike
Thanks all,
Mike
Hope this helps,
Joe
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
Today I took off the cowl support to open it up for more airflow to the larger-than-stock radiator I'm putting in...
I originally thought that this would be the best way to mount the intercooler, so there'd be ample tubing clearance underneath/behind the bumper...
...not so much on the driver side...
Passenger side is the same.
Don't really want to cut up the subframe to get tubing clearance. Plus even if I did that the bends would have to be pretty tight and likely past 90*. So I tried mocking it up this way...
I'll have to make holes in the cowl support then to pass the tubing through... not a big deal. I'm a bit unsure it there's enough room to fit a tight-bend 3" tube or coupler in there though, but I think I can cut anywhere up until the bumper trim support at the 6" mark...
Same deal on passenger side...
I will also have to put slight notches in the top plate of the grill to get it to clear the edges of the intercooler...
Stealth much?...
I originally thought that this would be the best way to mount the intercooler, so there'd be ample tubing clearance underneath/behind the bumper...
...not so much on the driver side...
Passenger side is the same.
Don't really want to cut up the subframe to get tubing clearance. Plus even if I did that the bends would have to be pretty tight and likely past 90*. So I tried mocking it up this way...
I'll have to make holes in the cowl support then to pass the tubing through... not a big deal. I'm a bit unsure it there's enough room to fit a tight-bend 3" tube or coupler in there though, but I think I can cut anywhere up until the bumper trim support at the 6" mark...
Same deal on passenger side...
I will also have to put slight notches in the top plate of the grill to get it to clear the edges of the intercooler...
Stealth much?
... 11 Second Club
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 445
Likes: 1
From: New Westminster, B.C., Canada
Hey Joe! Maybe I've got what you need???
Although maybe this is turning into a competition and should I be helping the competition???
I've got a holesaw that works good too if you need to borrow it. (4 1/8") allows for about 1/4" around the hose.
Although maybe this is turning into a competition and should I be helping the competition???
I've got a holesaw that works good too if you need to borrow it. (4 1/8") allows for about 1/4" around the hose.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
2 x 3" 90* silicone couplers
2 x 3" 90* aluminum bends
1 x that straight aluminum tube (how long is it?)
4 x (or 6 if you have em) 3" t-clamps
And the holesaw-borrow would be killer too, since I only need to drill 2 holes.
Maybe this will make us finally meet in person after all this internet smack-talk...
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
I've only seen two other turbo build threads for a 3rd gen Nova. One didn't have very large pics, wasn't too descriptive, and also the guy used a massively custom intercooler. The other guy had a full race build with no inner fenders, etc... not such a driver-like car! So I hope maybe this will be the thread for people doing a simple single-turbo setup with easily-available eBay/used hot and cold side stuff. No customs intercoolers or stainless turbo headers here!
Went and met Marktainium yesterday. Thanks for letting me raid your STASH of "extras" haha. His build is coming along quite nicely too, I'm jealous of his progress!!
I want to retain the stock hood latch, or only have to slightly modify it. In order to do so, and with having the intercooler sitting in front of the rad support, it'd have to be positioned here..
NOT so ideal!!! As well, if it were to stay in front of the rad support, I'd have to notch the trim piece between the bumper & grill, as well as the top of the grill itself to clear the intercooler corners, like here...
Turns out in order to clear the stock hood latch, I would only have to move the intercooler back 1.25". This is nice since it would also buy me enough clearance for the grill & grill-bumper trim piece... no trimming needed yay!
Since I'm chopping the rad support anyways (I will later weld in supports so it retains rigidity) I thought why not cut the "outline" of the intercooler+inlet/outlet couplers into the support so the intercooler is essentially recesed halfway into the rad support. The radiator would also be moved back the same amount to make room for the IC. Pics to come of this within a day or two.
Went and met Marktainium yesterday. Thanks for letting me raid your STASH of "extras" haha. His build is coming along quite nicely too, I'm jealous of his progress!!
I want to retain the stock hood latch, or only have to slightly modify it. In order to do so, and with having the intercooler sitting in front of the rad support, it'd have to be positioned here..
NOT so ideal!!! As well, if it were to stay in front of the rad support, I'd have to notch the trim piece between the bumper & grill, as well as the top of the grill itself to clear the intercooler corners, like here...
Turns out in order to clear the stock hood latch, I would only have to move the intercooler back 1.25". This is nice since it would also buy me enough clearance for the grill & grill-bumper trim piece... no trimming needed yay!
Since I'm chopping the rad support anyways (I will later weld in supports so it retains rigidity) I thought why not cut the "outline" of the intercooler+inlet/outlet couplers into the support so the intercooler is essentially recesed halfway into the rad support. The radiator would also be moved back the same amount to make room for the IC. Pics to come of this within a day or two.
11 Second Club
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 445
Likes: 1
From: New Westminster, B.C., Canada
That sounds like a good compromise for your intercooler. Great that you will have an easier install with the grille, bumper, etc. Do you have enough room to move the radiator back a bit to allow clearance between the intercooler and rad, and of course all the coolant hoses and then the intercooler to throttle body?
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
That sounds like a good compromise for your intercooler. Great that you will have an easier install with the grille, bumper, etc. Do you have enough room to move the radiator back a bit to allow clearance between the intercooler and rad, and of course all the coolant hoses and then the intercooler to throttle body?
...and since I'm going to make new engine mount adapter plates to try and move the engine back 1+ inches, there should be enough room, but might get a tad tight with the MAF stacked in front of the throttlebody, but we'll see about that when the motor is back in there mocked up...
11 Second Club
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 445
Likes: 1
From: New Westminster, B.C., Canada
The s10 radiator I'm using is actually 0.5" thinner than the stock radiator, and the previous setup had room to spare with a 4" intake tube & the upper coolant hose...
...and since I'm going to make new engine mount adapter plates to try and move the engine back 1+ inches, there should be enough room, but might get a tad tight with the MAF stacked in front of the throttlebody, but we'll see about that when the motor is back in there mocked up...
...and since I'm going to make new engine mount adapter plates to try and move the engine back 1+ inches, there should be enough room, but might get a tad tight with the MAF stacked in front of the throttlebody, but we'll see about that when the motor is back in there mocked up...