Another A-Body: 72 Malibu
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 8
From: NW Chicago Burbs
Good suggestion, but Hydroboost doesnt interest me. Everything is easily packaged now. It would be good to keep in mind if I ever go FI.
I am thinking about it for clamping force more than packaging. After the go pedal gets big stopping becomes important. I am going to try C5 brakes and a vacuum booster soon. My disc/drum vacuum setup isn't cutting it.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 8
From: NW Chicago Burbs
Thanks, unless I install an aluminum block, this car will always have an orange block.
I went with the B-body spindle with the HD brake on my front, so I was able to swap in a 12" sloted Rotor from a 1LE Camaro and with some good pad, by disk/drum does stop pertty good. Might do the rears to disk one of these days.
I am able to slow down quick enough from 100+ MPH at Infineon to make the 1st return exit without any problem.
I am able to slow down quick enough from 100+ MPH at Infineon to make the 1st return exit without any problem.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 8
From: NW Chicago Burbs
Did a bunch of small stuff today. I welded in my O2 sensor bungs after fixing my welder. I have been having issues with poor weld quality and tons of spatter. My Hobart set up for gas MIG had flux core wire in it. New wire and it welds great.
After some needed help from this site, I drilled and tapped the oil pressure sensor for my dummy light and gauge adapter. The 1/8" "Street Tee" from Napa was the lowest profile solution and turned out great.
I ended up plugging and installing the oil cooler block off plate. Finding that M12x1.5 bolt was a bitch. 4 parts and hardware stores did not have one. I ended up finding one at Murray's after buying and opening several drain plugs sealed in the wrong packaging. WTF!!
Napa part 9070 lower radiator hose fits perfect with 2" cut off the end. I was very happy to find an off the shelf hose that fits so well. I have the stock radiator with L92 truck pump. Makes it easy because they are the same diameter. The upper hose might take some searching.
After some needed help from this site, I drilled and tapped the oil pressure sensor for my dummy light and gauge adapter. The 1/8" "Street Tee" from Napa was the lowest profile solution and turned out great.
I ended up plugging and installing the oil cooler block off plate. Finding that M12x1.5 bolt was a bitch. 4 parts and hardware stores did not have one. I ended up finding one at Murray's after buying and opening several drain plugs sealed in the wrong packaging. WTF!!
Napa part 9070 lower radiator hose fits perfect with 2" cut off the end. I was very happy to find an off the shelf hose that fits so well. I have the stock radiator with L92 truck pump. Makes it easy because they are the same diameter. The upper hose might take some searching.
Good going, Looks like your making some good progress. For some of these items, you just have to use your imagination and walk around the hardward store trying to figure out what will work.. my ACE guy knows to leave me alone when he sees me coming in with that look...! LOL..
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 8
From: NW Chicago Burbs
It Runs!!! I like to get the thing running before I button everything up just in case I have to troubleshoot something. Anyways, I cranked it without the plugs for about 20 seconds and got 35lbs. of oil pressure. Threw in the plugs and cranked it. No fire.
No fuel at the rail. I was baffled for a second as I had fuel gushing out at the tank outlet 5 minutes earlier. Apparently I had the feed and return backwards. I assumed the feed would be the 3/8" just like the Filter/Reg outlet, but I guess not. Swapped the hose and it took about 3 primes to get fuel at the rail. Fired right up!!
The SI5 cam sounds pretty wicked with open headers. Paint from my garage ceiling fell of and is all over my car now from the sound. Drive by wire is so cool. Dont let it scare you. The E38 ECM makes it plug and play. Super easy setup.
Big props to Jared at Current Performance Wiring for the harness. It works as advertised and made this whole deal much less stressful. His support was also top notch and prompt.
Now I have the rest of the winter to make it look pretty. I hope to have dyno numbers from Speed Inc as soon as the salt is off the roads.
Short start up video.
No fuel at the rail. I was baffled for a second as I had fuel gushing out at the tank outlet 5 minutes earlier. Apparently I had the feed and return backwards. I assumed the feed would be the 3/8" just like the Filter/Reg outlet, but I guess not. Swapped the hose and it took about 3 primes to get fuel at the rail. Fired right up!!
The SI5 cam sounds pretty wicked with open headers. Paint from my garage ceiling fell of and is all over my car now from the sound. Drive by wire is so cool. Dont let it scare you. The E38 ECM makes it plug and play. Super easy setup.
Big props to Jared at Current Performance Wiring for the harness. It works as advertised and made this whole deal much less stressful. His support was also top notch and prompt.
Now I have the rest of the winter to make it look pretty. I hope to have dyno numbers from Speed Inc as soon as the salt is off the roads.
Short start up video.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 8
From: NW Chicago Burbs
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 8
From: NW Chicago Burbs
I installed and wired the DBW pedal today. I used a 2007 Chevy Cobalt pedal I purchased on ebay for 99 cents. Then I mocked up the pedal bracket out of light gauge steel. It cost $20.00 to have a local guy laser cut it out of 11ga. steel and bend it. Not the prettiest thing, but functional. I have an extra bracket if anyone wants it.
I changed around my clutch fluid reservoir a little. I broke down and purchased a banjo to 5/16" barb for the inlet fitting. I tried to mount a 4oz Tilton reservoir but its so big and could not find a decent spot for it. After messing around for hours I yanked it out and used a brake reservoir from my 2006 GSXR. Fits great and mounted easily using the factory bracket and a rubber isolated fairing mount.
I also connected the gauges. They are the new Bowtie versions of the Autometer Sport Comp II line. I went with mechanical oil and electric water for ease of mounting the sender. They look great.
I changed around my clutch fluid reservoir a little. I broke down and purchased a banjo to 5/16" barb for the inlet fitting. I tried to mount a 4oz Tilton reservoir but its so big and could not find a decent spot for it. After messing around for hours I yanked it out and used a brake reservoir from my 2006 GSXR. Fits great and mounted easily using the factory bracket and a rubber isolated fairing mount.
I also connected the gauges. They are the new Bowtie versions of the Autometer Sport Comp II line. I went with mechanical oil and electric water for ease of mounting the sender. They look great.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 8
From: NW Chicago Burbs
I got hosed today.
FYI for anyone running the GEN IV/L92 water pump; Autozone had the same part number for the older truck water pumps listed for the new angled ones. The old style does not come close to fitting because of the angle of the top tube. Napa listed what I believe to be the correct hose but its was $60.00 and not in stock.
I order the Gates 23184 (2007 Silverado 2500HD-NOt the classic) from Rockauto for $35.00 and it fits great. The cooling system is pretty much done, I just need to solder the 2 fan leads.
I also mounted the intake tube and air filter. Its the exact setup off the LT1 with new new MAF. I used a Lokar carb return spring bracket for support at the end of the filter. I used a well nut to provide some flexibility.
The S-10 power steering pulley was mounted with the new belt. I picked a 95" belt which is 1.5" longer than stock and is the perfect length.
FYI for anyone running the GEN IV/L92 water pump; Autozone had the same part number for the older truck water pumps listed for the new angled ones. The old style does not come close to fitting because of the angle of the top tube. Napa listed what I believe to be the correct hose but its was $60.00 and not in stock.
I order the Gates 23184 (2007 Silverado 2500HD-NOt the classic) from Rockauto for $35.00 and it fits great. The cooling system is pretty much done, I just need to solder the 2 fan leads.
I also mounted the intake tube and air filter. Its the exact setup off the LT1 with new new MAF. I used a Lokar carb return spring bracket for support at the end of the filter. I used a well nut to provide some flexibility.
The S-10 power steering pulley was mounted with the new belt. I picked a 95" belt which is 1.5" longer than stock and is the perfect length.
I went with the B-body spindle with the HD brake on my front, so I was able to swap in a 12" sloted Rotor from a 1LE Camaro and with some good pad, by disk/drum does stop pertty good. Might do the rears to disk one of these days.
I am able to slow down quick enough from 100+ MPH at Infineon to make the 1st return exit without any problem.
I am able to slow down quick enough from 100+ MPH at Infineon to make the 1st return exit without any problem.
Try the rear disc set up from speedway. 12 in rotors with gm front calipers. $280 for all. i use them on the rear and did a B body swap up front with C5 vette 13in rotor conversion. Stops like a mad man! Nice and balanced as well.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 8
From: NW Chicago Burbs
Finished the PS setup for the most part. I just need to run the return. I used a van pump (no integral reservoir), S-10 pulley for box clearance, and a ZF remote reservoir. Now I can say I have Ferrari parts on my Chevelle.
I also scan my codes and I get 0315 which is CASE (will perform when its time to drive it), and P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input. Any suggestions on trouble shooting this?
I also scan my codes and I get 0315 which is CASE (will perform when its time to drive it), and P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input. Any suggestions on trouble shooting this?
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 8
From: NW Chicago Burbs
Pretty much ready to go. I just need a few rains to wash the salt off the street. Too bad that wont happen for another 3 months. I am dying to drive this thing.
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
I am doing the exact same setup in my 1970 Chevelle. Can you tell me what wiring harness you used because I have one from a 2007 Yukon and I also have 2007 Cobalt pedal but my harness does not have a connector on it that fits the Cobalt Accelerator. Am I missing a harness that goes from the gas pedal to the main harness?
Last edited by Copperss; Feb 4, 2010 at 05:40 PM.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 8,032
Likes: 661
Great progress!! Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 8
From: NW Chicago Burbs
I am doing the exact same setup in my 1970 Chevelle. Can you tell me what wiring harness you used because I have one from a 2007 Yukon and I also have 2007 Cobalt pedal but my harness does not have a connector on it that fits the Cobalt Accelerator. Am I missing a harness that goes from the gas pedal to the main harness?
That is the thread with numbers. Later on I had it on a Mustang dyno and it put down 420RWHP and 400 RWTQ.