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Diff set up?

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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 11:30 AM
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Default Diff set up?

Last pass of the year blew the rear so pulled it all apart and there is nothing left everything is junk!!! Wat should i do? Should i spend the money and buy one from DTE $3900 stage 4 they say..Or should i buy a stocker and just put the hardend ring and pinion in that they sell? Thanks for all your help.. What im wondering is it worth spending all the money for the stuff they say wont break!!
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 11:37 AM
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I have a stg III from DTE with a brace. 3.42 gearing, micropolished gears, cryo treatment, hardened output shafts, and no issues at all. I have about 20 passes at the track and lots of high speed runs on the expressway. I really love the stg III. What does stg IV have the III doesn't and my god has the price of a built rear diff gone up !!
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 03:47 PM
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Default Diff set up?

Originally Posted by ONESLOWZO
Last pass of the year blew the rear so pulled it all apart and there is nothing left everything is junk!!! Wat should i do? Should i spend the money and buy one from DTE $3900 stage 4 they say..Or should i buy a stocker and just put the hardend ring and pinion in that they sell? Thanks for all your help.. What im wondering is it worth spending all the money for the stuff they say wont break!!
Was the diff that you broke a stock one? Every car is different (street tires or drag tires, auto trans or manual). Also driving style and maintainence has a lot to do with how long a diff will last. Wheel hop is a big problem for any diff, built or not. After melting the clutchs in two stock diffs, I went with a DTE stage 2 and ran 10.1 with 1.39 60'. I put about 85 runs on it and then I destroyed the ring and pinion. I now run a DTE stage 5 ($5100). Unfortunately, these diffs are a weak link when you try to put some serious power to the ground. Spending the money for a built diff is a hard call to make but if you go back with what you had you can expect the same longevity.
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 05:52 PM
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DTE also shot peens there gear sets, where as RPM just cryos and micro polishes theres, not saying that one more process will save the gears but it's not hurting. I guess what we really need is better metal in the gears. We blew a ring and pinion up road racing with only 410 rwhp. So it doesn't take big power just the right amount of abuse.
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 05:56 AM
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I bought the Stage V and it has been going strong for nearly 3 years of abuse now.
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 06:13 AM
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HIJACK!!! Damn DIXONK looks like you have one nasty setup there. What kinda #'s does that put out on the dyno/track???
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 09:01 AM
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also think about this you can by a stocker for $1200.00 and if they last a year or two you could buy 3 of them for the price of built one!
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Zturd
HIJACK!!! Damn DIXONK looks like you have one nasty setup there. What kinda #'s does that put out on the dyno/track???
Still working on getting it all setup. Just waiting on the heads and then next week will have some numbers. I will post a thread with results.
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 08:47 PM
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ANY REAR END WITH MOTIVE GEARS IS A WASTE OF MONEY IF YOU PLAN ON DRAGRACING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !

Talk to Rodney at RPM

JR
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Old Dec 4, 2008 | 08:56 AM
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my rear end is currently stock i dont plan on maybe 1-2 passes a year if any, no slicks or drg radials it will be a mainly a cruiser with a few races from a roll , as long as im not wheel hopping or anything should i be alright? i do plan on getting 3.90's like i had in my camaro tho
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Old Dec 4, 2008 | 10:30 PM
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i found a group here in az that will rebuild mine for $650.00 with 3:90 rockland harden gears and clutch packs and etc!
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