I want to know exactly how the lowering job is done. I've read all the DYI stuff on the net but i'm still not sure. When you turn the bolt counterclockwise to lower does the bolt get longer or shorter? Also, the bolt is reaally tight, if you jack up the leaf spring or a arm would it help take some tension off?

 

front or rear? front is more work.
stock bolts or aftermarket?

the more thread showing/the closer the pad is to the bottom of the leaf spring=the lower it is.
make sure you count the threads, or make some kind of precise measurement to make sure both sides are same height, since it will affect ride height alot.

yes, you can take some weight off the leaf by either jacking it up if you have another jack. or do what i did.. put a block of wood on a jackstand and gradually lower the leaf onto it. you only need to put a little weight on it to take some pressure off.

if you think they are hard to turn now, wait if you take them out, and have the remove the bolt thru the bottom of the leaf, and there is nothing to grab onto, then its really fun.

 

Are you talking about the front or back? On the front you turn the nut on top, not the bolt. The rear is where you turn the bolt. I did it on my 01 Z06 last weekend and I'm very happy with the results.

 

My bad,

Yeah I mean the front, stock bolts. I'm not going to swap them out for aftermarket ones but when I was looking at the bolt today it already looked kinda high yet my car looks like a 4x4, I can fit all 4 fingers in between. I'm pretty sure I have the Z51 package on it, (99 FRC, I think they all came with it), but it shouldn't really make a big diff. I tried putting a 10mm wrench on it and let's just say I couldn't get it to budge. Any other suggestions?

 

Also, the bolt/nut whatever it is on the top, if you keep turning it will it evetnaully hit an end? Like stop? If so couldn't you just do the same to the other side and measure it that way? Turn both sides until they don't turn?

 

Just did mine, on the front use the jack that makes it a little easier...

I used a socket and a driver and an 18 inch pipe over the driver, even then it was still hard to turn, and I could only go a little at a time. I did one side then used a piece of vacuum hose and put it next to the bolt then marked it to make a ghetto measuring stick, then made the other side the same.

I only went about half way. I don't know what you use the car for, but just like any car Ive owned mine hooks a little up worse (straight line) lowered, because there is less travel in the front, and less transfer.

 

Yeah it will be hard to break loose, shoot it with some PB Blaster and let it set about 8-10 mins then try it again. I took the front all the way til the nut stopped turning then back it off about a 1/4 turn on both sides. That last step will help prevent the nut seizing up if for some reason you want to raise it back up later.

 

Awsome tips. Thanks guys!

Socket and driver won't fit over the nut because the shock gets in the way and I don't feel like moving it out. I'll try it with a swivel head and see if it works. Wrench will probably strip the **** out of it.

 

Get you a good 10mm ratching boxed end wrench and you will be good to go. Just let the PB Blaster or WD-40 sit on it first.

 

I used a 1/4" driver, that's how I was able to make it fit with the shock on, then I put the bar on it.