Changing a converter on a Vette...
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 5,649
Likes: 9
From: Warr Acres, OK
Changing a converter on a Vette... I asked this in the tranny section and got zero response so I'll ask here.
Who has done one and what all is involved, generally speaking. I have done quite a few on F-Bodies and have someone wanting one done on a 04 Vette. I have a friend at a dealer who looked up the labor and their book said 10 hours.
Who has done one and what all is involved, generally speaking. I have done quite a few on F-Bodies and have someone wanting one done on a 04 Vette. I have a friend at a dealer who looked up the labor and their book said 10 hours.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 732
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas
I just recently got mine built. I burned out the 2 to 4 clutches and it would not go into those gears. I good shop that has experience with the corvette can pull and reinstall a vette tranny in 8.5 hours. I was charged $510 for the labor. Most shops charge more than the $600 to $650 install, cause it is a pain in the ***, but regardless you should not be charged more than the actual labor.
The rear suspension must be dropped by the 4 main bolts, then the pumpkin must be pulled out which requires the a arms to be disassembled from the rear, and the rear only to not mess up the alignment. Once this is done, the rear end suspension can be rotated 90 degrees to the back and rested on the lift, if you do not rest it on the lift, than it is more work to disconect the brake lines and what not so that it is not hanging by those parts. Then it is a standard transmission pull. This is for the auto only of course, otherwise the torque tube must be pulled also to get to the clutch on a stick shift. On the auto, the torque converter is in the rear of the car, on the stick, the clutch is on the back of the motor. The motor bolts directly to the torque tube on the auto, and on the stick the clutch, then it bolts to the torque tube.
The Vette tranny has a little bit better parts, like a 13 vane pump, and better servos and a little tighter tolerances, but for a performance build most everything should be changed regardless, cause the tranny is marginally better than the stock 4l60E. If you want to run anything over 400hp, you need to change the Sunshell housing also, and they should weld a stronger ring to the back of the housing to the output shaft, otherwise you will still blow the new stronger sunchell housing. If you go anything higher than the 13 vane pump, than an aftermarket tranny cooler will be required to keep the tranny in good condition, but it is not as necessary if you still run the 13 vane pump. This will handle 500 hp with the 13 vane pump, but it is still recommended to run a tranny cooler. My transmission usually ran about 220 to 230 degrees before my build, and without a cooler it now runs about 200 degrees average, and that is with a 2800 stall converter, which is known to rise the temps of the tranny. 180 degrees would be optimum for the transmission though.
I hope this helps you out a bit. After watching them remove my tranny, I know I could have done it myself as long as I have a full lift. The rest depends on who builds your tranny.
The rear suspension must be dropped by the 4 main bolts, then the pumpkin must be pulled out which requires the a arms to be disassembled from the rear, and the rear only to not mess up the alignment. Once this is done, the rear end suspension can be rotated 90 degrees to the back and rested on the lift, if you do not rest it on the lift, than it is more work to disconect the brake lines and what not so that it is not hanging by those parts. Then it is a standard transmission pull. This is for the auto only of course, otherwise the torque tube must be pulled also to get to the clutch on a stick shift. On the auto, the torque converter is in the rear of the car, on the stick, the clutch is on the back of the motor. The motor bolts directly to the torque tube on the auto, and on the stick the clutch, then it bolts to the torque tube.
The Vette tranny has a little bit better parts, like a 13 vane pump, and better servos and a little tighter tolerances, but for a performance build most everything should be changed regardless, cause the tranny is marginally better than the stock 4l60E. If you want to run anything over 400hp, you need to change the Sunshell housing also, and they should weld a stronger ring to the back of the housing to the output shaft, otherwise you will still blow the new stronger sunchell housing. If you go anything higher than the 13 vane pump, than an aftermarket tranny cooler will be required to keep the tranny in good condition, but it is not as necessary if you still run the 13 vane pump. This will handle 500 hp with the 13 vane pump, but it is still recommended to run a tranny cooler. My transmission usually ran about 220 to 230 degrees before my build, and without a cooler it now runs about 200 degrees average, and that is with a 2800 stall converter, which is known to rise the temps of the tranny. 180 degrees would be optimum for the transmission though.
I hope this helps you out a bit. After watching them remove my tranny, I know I could have done it myself as long as I have a full lift. The rest depends on who builds your tranny.
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
From: Texas
as i recall a couple important points to remember are, put tranny fluid in converter before putting back on and when connecting converter back to tranny make sure you slide on shaft and turn until it locks...I have seen detailed descriptions with photos on other forums (Corvette Forum) ... probably just do a search and can find them...good luck.
Last edited by C5 CU; Jun 14, 2004 at 07:38 AM.
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
although I only did the rear carrier; the work is the same.
Look here:
http://mikemercury.home.att.net/342.htm
Look here:
http://mikemercury.home.att.net/342.htm
