Looking to buy a C5 Vette
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Medford, MA
Looking to buy a C5 Vette hey guys, this is my first post here. i'm in the market for a C5 corvette right now. it will probably be in the 97-99 range cuz i'm not looking to spend more than $22,000-$25,000. i was just wondering if theres anything in particular i should look for when i go to look at them and test drive them, like common problems that the non enthusiest might not know about. Also, what would be good for the first few mods. i was thinking gears and exhaust first. right now i drive a 97 thunderbird 4.6 and i cant wait to get something faster and better looking. thanks for your help.
Frank
Frank
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 507
Likes: 2
From: Ankeny, IA
In your price range get the '99. Easier to find tuning software for. No perimeter bolt valve covers to worry about. Options to look for are the Z51 handling package and active handling. Gears are a good mod. Exhaust is only for looks and sound, no real power gains here unless you are highly modded IMO. Long tube headers are a good, but pricey, mod. An aftermarket air filter is also a good low cost mod to start with.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Medford, MA
these are the mods i plan on doing:
3.73 gears
ls6 intake
borla exhaust w/ x pipe
asp underdrive pulley
NX Kit 75-100 shot
is it safe to run a 75-100 shot on a stock motor? how much horsepower should i be making with these mods? i'm guessing i would be somewhere in the 11's with this stuff. I'm gon to look at a 98 vette this weekend. its silver w/ targa roof and automatic. i'm indifferent whether i get auto or manual, is one better to get than the other?
Frank
3.73 gears
ls6 intake
borla exhaust w/ x pipe
asp underdrive pulley
NX Kit 75-100 shot
is it safe to run a 75-100 shot on a stock motor? how much horsepower should i be making with these mods? i'm guessing i would be somewhere in the 11's with this stuff. I'm gon to look at a 98 vette this weekend. its silver w/ targa roof and automatic. i'm indifferent whether i get auto or manual, is one better to get than the other?
Frank
Get a '99+ if you can, for all the reasons above. Common wear items (even with low mileage - I've seen all of these worn out in less than 20K mi.):
Wheel bearings - usually notice the noise first - autozone has timken hub assy. for around $150/corner.
Tie rod ends - they are the same front and rear - cheap to replace ($50 ea.)
Rear diff leaks - bad seals on side covers - cheap parts, but expensive labor
Run flat tires - dump them - they are noisy and don't have any traction, pick up a Z06 inflator kit, or some slime in a bottle. Replacement rubber is expensive, no matter what you get.
Column lock failure - buy a column lock bypass kit and install it immediately ($55) All 6-speed cars have this and WILL fail eventually - leaving you with a locked column, and no way to drive home. Most A4's don't have it, and it is not a recall item. The bypass takes about 30min to install, Thunder Racing's kit even comes with all the tools you need (torx wrench, cig. lighter jumper etc).
Other than those things, they are pretty sturdy until the mods get serious.
Wheel bearings - usually notice the noise first - autozone has timken hub assy. for around $150/corner.
Tie rod ends - they are the same front and rear - cheap to replace ($50 ea.)
Rear diff leaks - bad seals on side covers - cheap parts, but expensive labor
Run flat tires - dump them - they are noisy and don't have any traction, pick up a Z06 inflator kit, or some slime in a bottle. Replacement rubber is expensive, no matter what you get.
Column lock failure - buy a column lock bypass kit and install it immediately ($55) All 6-speed cars have this and WILL fail eventually - leaving you with a locked column, and no way to drive home. Most A4's don't have it, and it is not a recall item. The bypass takes about 30min to install, Thunder Racing's kit even comes with all the tools you need (torx wrench, cig. lighter jumper etc).
Other than those things, they are pretty sturdy until the mods get serious.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 507
Likes: 2
From: Ankeny, IA
Good info from Under_construction there. As for power you will be making, I'll try to help you here. You'll start with 290-300rwhp. Of the mods you listed only the LS6 Intake, underdrive pulley and nitrous will add power. The pulley will add about 10 rwhp and the LS6 about 5rwhp. Save the money from the catback for long tube headers which will net you about 20-30rwhp. Catbacks do very little for a C5. The first mod I would do is an air filter assembly. Either a low restriction filter in the stock airbox with the zip tie mod or an aftermarket piece. This should be good for about 20rwhp. Keep in mind air in - air out. That's what makes you power. Also the stock driveline and motor should take a 100 shot as long as they're in good working order. You'll probably need to beef up the fuel system, but I'd ask about that in the nitrous forum (never used it myself). Also with an M6 you might as well do 3.90's or 4.10's with an A4 I'd probably stick with 3.42's. Personally I don't like automatics in sports cars and would never buy an A4, but if you go that route add a converter to your mods list.
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TECH Resident
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 828
Likes: 0
From: dallas,tx.
I have a '99, and GM sent me a steering column recall note in '01. the dealership did it at no cost to me, and they keep records of ones they did. ask who ever you buy from if it's been done. if you buy from a dealer they can find out if the car has been seviced for it.
back when the column lock was giving a lot of people problems, I read somewhere that when the column locked up, clearing the trouble codes from the computer would sometimes unlock it. I never personally had that experience, but might be worth a try if you somehow wind up in that position. I still keep a paper in the glove box that outlines how to access the trouble codes, and how to clear them.
good luck on whichever model you wind up with. I'm sure you'll love it.
back when the column lock was giving a lot of people problems, I read somewhere that when the column locked up, clearing the trouble codes from the computer would sometimes unlock it. I never personally had that experience, but might be worth a try if you somehow wind up in that position. I still keep a paper in the glove box that outlines how to access the trouble codes, and how to clear them.
good luck on whichever model you wind up with. I'm sure you'll love it.
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