New 347, 3.73 Rear, & 3800 SSF installed
#1
New 347, 3.73 Rear, & 3800 SSF installed
I have been working on this project since back in January. Picked up a block, started picking up my parts and finally the new rear and Torque Converter are in and the motor gets dropped in tommorrow. All going in a 1998 Torch Red Coupe.
Heres is a little over view of the motor
Ls1 block full machined and hottanked
Magnafluxed Crank
Crower I-beams
3.905 -2cc Diamond Pistons
Arp Main Studs
Arp 12point Head Studs
Stage II 5.3 Heads 2.02/1.60
Manley Valve Train
Harland Sharp Rockers
Manley Pushrods
Custom Billet Crower cam 244/248 .629/.629 112 LSA
Ported LS6 Oil Pump
RollerMaster Double Roller
Ported LS6 Intake
11.2-11.5.1 (what the calculator says but I am thinking it is closer to 11.2)
TCI 3800 SSF with Anti-ballooning Plate
Getrag 3.73 Rear End
Pro Shot Fogger Direct Port Injection 150-600 Shot (starting with 150 and having tuned on 150 also)
What do guys think? Hoping for some real power out of this setup. Also do you think it is safe to chasis dyno this the very next day the install is done?
Heres is a little over view of the motor
Ls1 block full machined and hottanked
Magnafluxed Crank
Crower I-beams
3.905 -2cc Diamond Pistons
Arp Main Studs
Arp 12point Head Studs
Stage II 5.3 Heads 2.02/1.60
Manley Valve Train
Harland Sharp Rockers
Manley Pushrods
Custom Billet Crower cam 244/248 .629/.629 112 LSA
Ported LS6 Oil Pump
RollerMaster Double Roller
Ported LS6 Intake
11.2-11.5.1 (what the calculator says but I am thinking it is closer to 11.2)
TCI 3800 SSF with Anti-ballooning Plate
Getrag 3.73 Rear End
Pro Shot Fogger Direct Port Injection 150-600 Shot (starting with 150 and having tuned on 150 also)
What do guys think? Hoping for some real power out of this setup. Also do you think it is safe to chasis dyno this the very next day the install is done?
#2
Originally Posted by 1998redcoupe
I have been working on this project since back in January. Picked up a block, started picking up my parts and finally the new rear and Torque Converter are in and the motor gets dropped in tommorrow. All going in a 1998 Torch Red Coupe.
Heres is a little over view of the motor
Ls1 block full machined and hottanked
Magnafluxed Crank
Crower I-beams
3.905 -2cc Diamond Pistons
Arp Main Studs
Arp 12point Head Studs
Stage II 5.3 Heads 2.02/1.60
Manley Valve Train
Harland Sharp Rockers
Manley Pushrods
Custom Billet Crower cam 244/248 .629/.629 112 LSA
Ported LS6 Oil Pump
RollerMaster Double Roller
Ported LS6 Intake
11.2-11.5.1 (what the calculator says but I am thinking it is closer to 11.2)
TCI 3800 SSF with Anti-ballooning Plate
Getrag 3.73 Rear End
Pro Shot Fogger Direct Port Injection 150-600 Shot (starting with 150 and having tuned on 150 also)
What do guys think? Hoping for some real power out of this setup. Also do you think it is safe to chasis dyno this the very next day the install is done?
Heres is a little over view of the motor
Ls1 block full machined and hottanked
Magnafluxed Crank
Crower I-beams
3.905 -2cc Diamond Pistons
Arp Main Studs
Arp 12point Head Studs
Stage II 5.3 Heads 2.02/1.60
Manley Valve Train
Harland Sharp Rockers
Manley Pushrods
Custom Billet Crower cam 244/248 .629/.629 112 LSA
Ported LS6 Oil Pump
RollerMaster Double Roller
Ported LS6 Intake
11.2-11.5.1 (what the calculator says but I am thinking it is closer to 11.2)
TCI 3800 SSF with Anti-ballooning Plate
Getrag 3.73 Rear End
Pro Shot Fogger Direct Port Injection 150-600 Shot (starting with 150 and having tuned on 150 also)
What do guys think? Hoping for some real power out of this setup. Also do you think it is safe to chasis dyno this the very next day the install is done?
SEVERAL HEAT CYCLES TO THE VALVE TRAIN,before DYNO
Same with the new gears
Last edited by Blktie8; 07-02-2004 at 04:48 AM.
#3
it's been my experience in the past with rebuilt engines to drive them like you want to from the get-go. new engine blocks tend to warp and shift ever so slightly from heating up and cooling down, and your less likely to have problems if you don't dog the hell out of 'em for a few thousand miles or so. rebuilt engines on the other hand usually start with a 'seasoned' block that gets machined to eliminate those previously mentioned imperfections. speaking strictley for myself, I'd drain and strain the oil(s), check for metal chips, nuts-bolts & missing tools, lube it back up and drive it like I just stole it.
good luck, and keep the shiney side up.
good luck, and keep the shiney side up.