Anyone dry sump a C5?
10-13-2004, 12:41 PM
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Anyone dry sump a C5? If anyone has installed a dry sump oil system where did you put the tank looks a little tight under the hood and would like to avoid trunk if possible?
11-25-2004, 10:03 PM
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Wade Stevens and I are installing an ARE (Armstrong Race Engineerining, aremfg@ulink.net 916-987-7629, not the ARE in Canada) stage 1 dry sump system and it is working well so far, although everything is a tight fit and the dash twelve connectors under the scavaging pump need to be the "close 90" degrees connectors not the regular 90 degree connectors, but it all fits without cutting or changing anything other than the head lights in our application.
The tank and over flow bottle had to be placed in the space under the passenger side head light and the filter in the driver side head light area. We used existing brackets and cut out the lights and some hardware. We left the manual openers to access the compartments. I purchased PIAA 1552 driving lights and installed them where the fog lights were and used the existing wiring from the head lights to wire the driving lights, Lemans or C5R head lights could also be used instead of the light covers so long as they were removable for access to oil tank and filter. These are also an aerodynamic advantage over the pop up driving lights. If I get motivated I can also wire the light covers with a two way switch, under the hood, that will open and close the the electric motor for the head lights covers instead of doing it manually.
We have not finished everything as of yet as the car is put on the back burner because it is off season up here in "The Great White North". On the dyno we were making 485 rwhp, but for some reason the MAF started acting up and we couldn't tune it properly, also there may be issues with the torque converter or tranny. We are keeping our fingers crossed for around 510-530 rwhp through an automatic tranny and a bored and stroked stock LS1 block and heads.
Another point of interest is that oil changes seems to leave 4 liters of oil in the system. I change my oil every 1200 to 1500 miles so thats not a major issue for me, although every 3 or 4 oil changes I will empty the system and then add 4 liters and run the motor for a few minutes and then re-empty the system for a more complete oil change. I guess a connector on the bottom of the pan could also be removed instead of doing the two stage oil change. I like that the oil filter is a full sized race filter and not the pipp squeeked sized LS1 filter.
Well thats where we are at for now, I'll keep you posted.
The tank and over flow bottle had to be placed in the space under the passenger side head light and the filter in the driver side head light area. We used existing brackets and cut out the lights and some hardware. We left the manual openers to access the compartments. I purchased PIAA 1552 driving lights and installed them where the fog lights were and used the existing wiring from the head lights to wire the driving lights, Lemans or C5R head lights could also be used instead of the light covers so long as they were removable for access to oil tank and filter. These are also an aerodynamic advantage over the pop up driving lights. If I get motivated I can also wire the light covers with a two way switch, under the hood, that will open and close the the electric motor for the head lights covers instead of doing it manually.
We have not finished everything as of yet as the car is put on the back burner because it is off season up here in "The Great White North". On the dyno we were making 485 rwhp, but for some reason the MAF started acting up and we couldn't tune it properly, also there may be issues with the torque converter or tranny. We are keeping our fingers crossed for around 510-530 rwhp through an automatic tranny and a bored and stroked stock LS1 block and heads.
Another point of interest is that oil changes seems to leave 4 liters of oil in the system. I change my oil every 1200 to 1500 miles so thats not a major issue for me, although every 3 or 4 oil changes I will empty the system and then add 4 liters and run the motor for a few minutes and then re-empty the system for a more complete oil change. I guess a connector on the bottom of the pan could also be removed instead of doing the two stage oil change. I like that the oil filter is a full sized race filter and not the pipp squeeked sized LS1 filter.
Well thats where we are at for now, I'll keep you posted.
