66ImpalaLT1

Some of you have been following the story of my C5 cam install. This was my first real experience working on an LS1, so I took it slow and made sure I wouldnt miss anything.

After finishing some things up tonight, I crossed my fingers and turned the key. On the first try it fired right up. Oil pressure came up and everything looked good. I rechecked the coolant level, and looked for leaks as I ran it. I might need a better hose clamp on one of the small radiator hoses on the right, but thats it.

I ran it up to 207 coolant temp, and 155 oil temp before I shut it down. Tomorrow I'll run it again and check for leaks, then put the front wheels on and take it off jackstands.

I'd like to thank MTI, Thunder Racing, and Katech for supplying the parts. I'd also like to thank the members of this board, and especially Nasty C5 for pestering me daily and keeping me motivated. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

Eric

ps: I love the idle. <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />

<small>[ April 10, 2002, 12:24 AM: Message edited by: 66ImpalaLT1 ]</small>

66ImpalaLT1

I forgot to add, these are the parts I used:

From MTI:
ASP pulley
T1 cam
918 springs
MTI pushrods

From Thunder Racing:
772 retainers
Gaskets

From Katech:
Cloyes timing gears
JWIS timing chain

BlownC5

iTrader: (81)

Congrats Eric! Not really a bad job if you take your time. Later

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

Hell yeah, Eric! How does it idle w/out the tuning, etc? Are you going to do two heat cycles of your springs or just one?

Did you have to bleed the steering rack?

This is awesome news! BTW, did you just eyeball the timing chain cover on to make sure it's center?

Good job, Eric.

66ImpalaLT1

It doesnt idle as bad as I thought it would, but I've had a car with a nasty idle in the past. The only problem I've noticed so far is that after I rev the engine it stumbles around looking for the idle rpm.

I'm going to run it up to 150 oil temp again tonight, then I'll let it cool off while I put the wheels on and take it off jackstands. Once I drive it I'll probably take it easy, just warm it up and then let it cool down once more. After that I'll really get on it.

Yes, I had to bleed the rack, there isnt anything to it. Per the MTI instructions I filled the reservoir up to the line, and turned the wheel lock to lock 10 times with the engine off. I had to stop and add fluid a couple times while doing this. I probably did it more than 10 times, you can actually feel it getting stiffer when the air works it way out. Once I started the engine I turned it lock to lock a couple times and it seemed fine.

To align the timing cover I put it on with all the bolts loose. Then I put some redline assembly lube on the ASP pulley where it fits into the seal and installed the pulley, after that I tightened all the bolts down. You cant really move it around once the pulley is installed.

Eric

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

<strong>
I'm going to run it up to 150 oil temp again tonight, then I'll let it cool off while I put the wheels on and take it off jackstands. Once I drive it I'll probably take it easy, just warm it up and then let it cool down once more. After that I'll really get on it.</strong>

So you think two heat cycles will be sufficient?

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
Yes, I had to bleed the rack, there isnt anything to it. Per the MTI instructions I filled the reservoir up to the line, and turned the wheel lock to lock 10 times with the engine off. I had to stop and add fluid a couple times while doing this. I probably did it more than 10 times, you can actually feel it getting stiffer when the air works it way out. Once I started the engine I turned it lock to lock a couple times and it seemed fine.</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">So you turn it say right, to lock, turn ignition on to unlock then turn ignition off and turn left to lock? My column lock has been disabled for so long that I forgot how it worked <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> . You don't need to have any sort of bleed screw open do you? Just have the top of the reservoir and keep turning it to lock and lock, right?

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">To align the timing cover I put it on with all the bolts loose. Then I put some redline assembly lube on the ASP pulley where it fits into the seal and installed the pulley, after that I tightened all the bolts down. You cant really move it around once the pulley is installed.</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That's a damn good way to go about it <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> . So tighten down and seat the pulley and then tighten the timing cover bolts down, correct?

<small>[ April 10, 2002, 11:16 AM: Message edited by: NastyC5 ]</small>

66ImpalaLT1

Actually I'll cycle it three times, but the third will be driving it. I think that will be sufficient.

By lock to lock I mean this:

1. Turn the key on (if you have a column lock)

2. Turn the wheel left until it stops

3. Turn the wheel right until it stops

4. Turn the wheel left until it stops
5. Repeat 3 and 4 two more times.

6. Check fluid and top up, go to step 3.

There is no bleed valve, you just need to turn the wheel to work the air out.

Eric

66ImpalaLT1

I didnt use a tubing wrench, it wasnt that tight. I just used a regular 18mm open end wrench. At the angle you attack that thing, I dont think you could use a tubing wrench anyway. You have to go at it from the wheel well, and you have to take off the lower line first before you can even get a wrench on the upper one.

Eric

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

Great. Thanks for the info. Be sure to post back on how much it pulls (up until our 6200 rev-limiter <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> ). Does it lope that much or do you have to wait until you get the idle adjusted?

66ImpalaLT1

I dont think it lopes very much, but maybe its just me.

Eric (I should have gone with the hammer cam <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> )

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

I don't want much lope, if any. I Wanna surprise my prey <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> . BTW, what exhaust system do you have?

I think I can do this in two days, don't ya' think? I have all the tools and access to a lift so it should go pretty fast. I have read so much on the install and read tips and tricks from you and many others that I think I could do this with my eyes closed, lol <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

66ImpalaLT1

You should be able to do it in 2 days if you have help. I worked on my own except to loosen and tighten the crank pulley.

It does lope, its definately not stock. I have the stock manifolds, cats, h-pipe and Corsa Indys. I've heard that with headers and !cats it will lope more.

Eric

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

Congrats, Eric! Bout time you get that thing going!

I'm going to talk to my new boss next week to see if he'll let me go for Memphis. Then I can show you some Camaro tail lights. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />

Oh, and on my Z28, with the stock exhaust, the B1 didn't lope at all. Put on longtubes, no cats, and a loose muffler, and she lopes quite nicely. <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" /> I'd imagine the T1 may be even a little more lopey. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

-Andrew

66ImpalaLT1

Andrew, if you come to memphis I might have to move up my mod timeline.

I forgot to mention this: I was worried about having more valvetrain noise. Last night I think I had less noise than stock. Maybe I'll check the stock pushrods and see if any are slightly bent.

Eric

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

If you had bent pushrods you'd have a tick most likely. Maybe it's because the base circle on most aftermarket cams is smaller than stock so there's less preload in the lifter?

66ImpalaLT1

Actually it used to click, not a really loud clack, but it seems to me that sound went away.

Last night it sounded like a 400hp sewing machine.

Eric (finally leaving work now)

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

I like the sewing machine analogy <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Get home and fire her up again!

jmX

Congrats man!

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the clarification <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> .

BTW, do you have a pic of the tubing wrench you used to take the steering rack off. I have been told not to use a standard wrench because you'll strip the nut/bolt head. Thanks.

Closer_2001

iTrader: (6)

Eric

When I changed my pushrods and valvesprings, I turned it over and it clattered like hell!!!

So I pulled it apart and verified all the pre-load. No prblem.

I then covered the rockers with oil, turned it over again, and the noise disappeared.

It just takes time for the oil to work its way up.