Hey guys and gals,

I found the cam install guide for LS1, but it was done on an f-body. Is there an install guide for C5? It looks as though you have to drop the steering rack to remove the balancer.
Anyone know what gotcha's await if I use the f-body guide?

Thanks!
Scott

 

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1

That is a heads/cam guide. Just omit the heads steps.

 

take your time, do it right the first time so you don't have to do it over. only difficult part was moving rack out of the way. have someone pull the condenser forward to gain enough room to pull camshaft

 

Yea no way around it you gotta pull the rack and pinion. Is the worst part of installing a cam in the C5 IMO. Usually takes me 30min to an hour messing with that damn thing. I have gotten pretty good at it lately though lol. But I still hate it.

 

No doubt about it. That damn thing catches on everything coming out and going back in!

 

Thanks for all of the input guys! I hoping to attack this next month. Planning to go with a 224/228 because I'm not using headers. I'm sure I'll be posting when it's done.

 

I ended up with an oil leak from using high temp gasket maker on the timing chain cover and so did a friend on his C5. My buddy that did the work with me never used the gasket maker on his timing chain covers and never had oil leaks like me and the other guy that did use the gasket maker. What is everyones feelings about using the high temp gasket maker?

 

I never use it that stuff. Makes more of a mess for me then anything. From my experiance. IF the packings are worn or flatten I would replace them if they still look ok I jsut reuse them. Nomarlly I end up haveing to replace my valve cover gaskets packing (or O Ring ) because they will stretch and become a pain to put back in and that is normally the only thing that leaks on me. Usually in the back too where yiou can barely see it lol. The o rings seal up very well is why 90% of the gasket or what needs them on the aircraft I work on are all rubber orings. If you use anything use alittle vasoline or motor oil on it to help it seal.

 

I too have been contemplating a cam. In the instructions for pinning the crank from Magnusen, they recommend dropping the four nuts that hold the front cradle a half inch. Anyone try this and does it help with the rack removal?

 

No, rack removal is fairly straightforward, Once the radiator, rack and power steering cooler was out of the way, it was fairly easy to access the damper. After everything was removed, I heated up the crank bolt head with a propane torch to break bond on patch lock, came right out. I installed an ATI underdrive damper and pinned the hub using a cable drive drill. Spend the extra $25 and get the ARP 12 point bolt

 

thats a good cam too bad I didnt go with that 1 the first time around.I made the mistake going with a big&stupid cam!

 

Ordered 205 AFR's yesterday, 62cc chambers. will need .100 longer pushrods according to Crane, to keep the geometry correct. How do you like the AFR heads, Steve?

 

Steve - what cam are you referring to as a "good cam". Also what cam are you referring to as the "big & stupid cam". I'm curious as I want to install something in my FRC with the LS6 intake and don't want to go overboard. I still want to enjoy driving my car. Cartek recommended a H or LX cam. Any thoughts?

 

NOSjohn, I have a crane/vhp 216/224 with crane 1.8 rockers, resulting lift is .590. will install afr 205 heads next week, milled .024, scr will be approx. 10.9:1. using .040 cometics. will post results after tune.