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2000 C5 Bone Stock Dyno

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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 05:52 PM
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Default 2000 C5 Bone Stock Dyno

Told you guys I would get a dyno, the sheet is being scanned in ATM, I will have it posted. Car is bone stock down to the filter, running 92 octane pump, and it passes Cali Smog:

311rwhp, 326rwtq

Not bad!
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 06:11 PM
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good numbers.
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 06:36 PM
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thats strong for a stock vette
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 06:51 PM
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My 01 with a Blackwing did 326 and 344 tq.
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 08:10 PM
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^^^That's about what you should do with an intake and an LS6 intake mani. Cheers though!
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 08:17 PM
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Old Jan 15, 2006 | 09:22 PM
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Those are good numbers, my 99 was just under 300, got it to the numbers in sig with a RWTD Pedator tune. Looking forward to new numbers on Nitrous
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 05:54 PM
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nice car beer
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 01:16 AM
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did you get some kr around 4350rpm??? also looks like it could be leaned out just a tad above 5100rpm, and up the timing over 4500 if no kr is present..... just my $.02...... looks like some bolt ons and a good tune would really wake that thing up, nice numbers for a ca car
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 01:26 AM
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Good numbers. I put down 330 last week with a halltech, ported tb, and b&b bullets. This week I am putting on every single bolt on!
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 01:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Assassin
nice numbers for a ca car

It was from California. I live in Eugene, OR. No emissions...... I just put that there to show how much MORE restrictions are in it. Next dyno sheet will be with my 150 wet shot up and going, 160 t-stat, Vararam, Torquer V.2 cam, and a PCM tune from Texas-Speed. Should be a lil bit better.

But thanks for the comments guys!
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 01:58 AM
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please at least gut the cats(and delete rear o2's) before the n2o dyno run....
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Assassin
please at least gut the cats(and delete rear o2's) before the n2o dyno run....

Gonna do it, depending on how much of a pain in the *** it is. In 2 months I plan on getting LT's anyways.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 05:17 AM
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easiest way is to cut the pipes behind the cats, knock them out w/ small pipe and hammer then weld back together, dont have the exhaust pointing at anything fragile when you first start it up again just to be safe... its quite easy if you have a mig and a recipricating saw...
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 05:58 AM
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Just dynoed mine over the weekend also. (320hp and 345tq) only mods are ls6 intake and cold air intake.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by HolyShiznit
Nice numbers, and not whishing to blow the wind out of your sails but. It's about bang on for a Corvette. I assume it's a M6?

If you note along the top of the graph it's a Dynojet, these are non load bearing dyno's and generally giver higher numbers compared to manufacture numbers. Plus it also says "uncorrected" which means these arn't SAE numbers. The "graph smoothing" grade will also effect the numbers.

If you converted them to what a load bearing dyno would generate (Mustang Dyno or Dynodynamics, or Rototest) and corrected to SAE your car would be some where between 290-300rwhp which is BANG on where it should be.

As I say nice numbers, and I only offer this explanation as others have commented on it being 'strong' for a Corvette.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 12:05 PM
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Good explanation for those that didn't already know that. We run uncorrected because that's what the car is making to the wheels, right then at that time. No weird corrections, no goofy dyno tricks. Also, coming from the turbo world, on DynoJets it is common practice to run uncorrected numbers. It is never a good idea to compare dyno numbers from different dynos. This dyno is the one that everyone within 250 miles of me uses so the numbers I get from there are accurate for the other cars in the area.

So while it may not be "strong" for an LS1 it does show that the motor is healthy which is what I wanted to know anyways.
Trap speed > Dyno numbers anyways
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