Input on clutches...
Originally Posted by Ranger
Thanks for the kind words, Jamie. My advice on this and other topics tends to be from my own personal experience owning, drag racing and maintaining my Corvettes, breakage-free thus far.
Ranger
Ranger
You can tell of your real experience....thats why I dig it.
Nothing better then that. We all reap the rewards. See you around.
Jamie
Originally Posted by V-seriesTech
Nice write up bro. If it wasn't for your post/experience....i'd be recommending LS7 clutchs all day....just cause it "seems" like it would be better.
Thanks for your advice.
Jamie
Me too!
Ranger, while we're on the subject, I'd like to run something by you. I recently had the headers swapped on my car, and now I get a vibration from the shifter (and even from the seat bottom, it feels like) between 3500-6000rpms.
The clutch was perfect prior to the header install. Any idea why it would start doing this all of a sudden? Its an RPS with 3k miles on it. Think it might be the clutch even so?
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From: Beyond the beltway in Maryland
Originally Posted by pakisho
Me too!
Ranger, while we're on the subject, I'd like to run something by you. I recently had the headers swapped on my car, and now I get a vibration from the shifter (and even from the seat bottom, it feels like) between 3500-6000rpms.
The clutch was perfect prior to the header install. Any idea why it would start doing this all of a sudden? Its an RPS with 3k miles on it. Think it might be the clutch even so?
Ranger, while we're on the subject, I'd like to run something by you. I recently had the headers swapped on my car, and now I get a vibration from the shifter (and even from the seat bottom, it feels like) between 3500-6000rpms.
The clutch was perfect prior to the header install. Any idea why it would start doing this all of a sudden? Its an RPS with 3k miles on it. Think it might be the clutch even so?
If the vibration was NOT present until immediately following a header installation, then I'd suggest returning to your installer for some help. I'd suspect a clearance issue beween the header, exhaust and frame or one or more fasteners needs to be retorqued. Finding the specific source of the offending part is best done with the car on a lift and someone in the car to raise the rpm. A pair of heavy leather gloves can help too.
Did your installer use new bolts or reuse the ones from your previous headers?
Ranger
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Last edited by Ranger; Aug 1, 2006 at 05:37 AM.
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From: Mooresville, NC
Originally Posted by jbusmc1986
I think that keliente would probly do her own clutch... Just from looking at her page
And to be honest doing a clutch on my garage floor is not really anything I feel like doing in the 100 degree heat. I know a great mechanic that I trust, who is insanely affordable. For the rate he charges I'm glad to give up the car for the weekend.
Originally Posted by Ranger
Hi pakisho,
If the vibration was NOT present until immediately following a header installation, then I'd suggest returning to your installer for some help. I'd suspect a clearance issue beween the header, exhaust and frame or one or more fasteners needs to be retorqued. Finding the specific source of the offending part is best done with the car on a lift and someone in the car to raise the rpm. A pair of heavy leather gloves can help too.
Did your installer use new bolts or reuse the ones from your previous headers?
Ranger
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If the vibration was NOT present until immediately following a header installation, then I'd suggest returning to your installer for some help. I'd suspect a clearance issue beween the header, exhaust and frame or one or more fasteners needs to be retorqued. Finding the specific source of the offending part is best done with the car on a lift and someone in the car to raise the rpm. A pair of heavy leather gloves can help too.
Did your installer use new bolts or reuse the ones from your previous headers?
Ranger
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Thanks for the advice!
Oz
Just skimmed through some of the replies, but I'll offer my experience...
The LS7 clutch is brand new, but I think I'd let other people test it out before jumping on the bandwagon. I'm very happy with my LS6 clutch on my C5. Very smooth, and it grips great for a stock clutch. It feels much better (after a night at the strip) than my OE LT1 clutch, and it feels better than any of the LS1 Fbody's I've driven. With your mods and plans, get the LS6 clutch.
I had a Street Twin clutch. It cost a small fortune, but it gripped like no other. The flip side of it was that it only lasted about 35k miles of daily duty, and it cost me another 350 bucks to have rebuilt.
I've been to the strip and honestly only seen one C6 Z06 there. The guy could drive worth a flip, and was complaining that his clutch wasn't "biting." While the guy probably had never been to a drag strip before (running 15s in a 500hp car), he was probably riding/slipping the clutch too much on top of everything else. That's only one instance that I've seen, so maybe it is isolated. Everyone like to point out how great the LS7 clutch must be, but I'm just saying to be careful
.
Good luck. Its a bear to change, so I'd rather do it once.
Ryan
The LS7 clutch is brand new, but I think I'd let other people test it out before jumping on the bandwagon. I'm very happy with my LS6 clutch on my C5. Very smooth, and it grips great for a stock clutch. It feels much better (after a night at the strip) than my OE LT1 clutch, and it feels better than any of the LS1 Fbody's I've driven. With your mods and plans, get the LS6 clutch.
I had a Street Twin clutch. It cost a small fortune, but it gripped like no other. The flip side of it was that it only lasted about 35k miles of daily duty, and it cost me another 350 bucks to have rebuilt.
I've been to the strip and honestly only seen one C6 Z06 there. The guy could drive worth a flip, and was complaining that his clutch wasn't "biting." While the guy probably had never been to a drag strip before (running 15s in a 500hp car), he was probably riding/slipping the clutch too much on top of everything else. That's only one instance that I've seen, so maybe it is isolated. Everyone like to point out how great the LS7 clutch must be, but I'm just saying to be careful
. Good luck. Its a bear to change, so I'd rather do it once.
Ryan
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Does anyone have the part number for JUST the LS6 clutch/pressure plate? #12570806 is the whole thing including the flywheel, and I don't need that.
Also Ranger specifically which kool sox did you get? There seems to be a lot of options as far as size/length.
Also Ranger specifically which kool sox did you get? There seems to be a lot of options as far as size/length.
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From: Beyond the beltway in Maryland
Originally Posted by keliente
Does anyone have the part number for JUST the LS6 clutch/pressure plate? #12570806 is the whole thing including the flywheel, and I don't need that.
Also Ranger specifically which kool sox did you get? There seems to be a lot of options as far as size/length.
Also Ranger specifically which kool sox did you get? There seems to be a lot of options as far as size/length.
On the KoolSox, suggest the .75" x 8". One set of 8 should give you enough to insulate separately both the line for the MC and a remote bleeder line to the area near the MC reservoir. You might save some money on the KoolSox by precisely measuring the length of the lines and buying exactly the number of pairs of the larger diameter Sox.
Ranger
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Originally Posted by Ranger
Regarding clutch components, your call obviously, but I'd suggest replacing everything while you have it apart (including all the hydraulics). Might want to take a look at my advice in Post #17. Vibration is what you want to avoid in the finished job. Reusing a non-matching flywheel risks vibration.
I was going to get an aluminum flywheel, Ls6 clutch/pressure plate and take it somewhere to get balanced. I can do that, right?
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From: Beyond the beltway in Maryland
Originally Posted by keliente
I already have the #'s for the hydraulics, replacing them is a given because they are the root of my problem.
I was going to get an aluminum flywheel, Ls6 clutch/pressure plate and take it somewhere to get balanced. I can do that, right?
I was going to get an aluminum flywheel, Ls6 clutch/pressure plate and take it somewhere to get balanced. I can do that, right?
Ranger
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Originally Posted by Ranger
keliente, Sure, that will work. But that AL flywheel will make the car harder to launch well and I doubt it will actually improve either the 60' or the ET. And it is less consistent in a near stock car. Notwithstanding, some folks like it.
Ranger
Ranger
I don't drag race much at all, so I'm not so concerned with the 60' or ET. What I really love this car for is just cruising & auto cross.
FWIW, a C4 LT1 car was making about 430rwhp with a standard aftermarket clutch. They switched to a Street Twin (which weigh around 50lbs) and lost about 10-12rwhp. Do you know that weight difference in between the stock/AL flywheel? The whole point of the AL flywheel is to reduce parasitic losses, but I'd look other places to help the car.
For a cruiser needing reliability, I'd just stick with the resurfaced stocker. Save yourself the 100-200 bucks for an AL flywheel. However, if its burning a hole in your pocket...
Ryan
For a cruiser needing reliability, I'd just stick with the resurfaced stocker. Save yourself the 100-200 bucks for an AL flywheel. However, if its burning a hole in your pocket...
Ryan
Ive had great luck with the Spec 3+ so far.....It has great pedal feel, not too harsh and grips like a ****...Drives almost like the stock Ls6 clutch..It has held 450rwhp(soon to spray to 600rwhp) with absolutely no problems, and I am running the fidanza alum flywheel and mccloud master. That being said I dont daily drive my car, and I do not expect more than 20,000 miles out of this clutch.... In your case Id definitely stick with the stock Ls6 setup, it will have no problems holding 320-350rwhp....
I ran a Ram sintered iron setup before with the fidanza alum flywheel and that thing chaterred like a red headed stepchild in city driving....It held GREAT at the track but was almost unbearable driving around town. The 3+ does not chatter and holds the same or more power.
I ran a Ram sintered iron setup before with the fidanza alum flywheel and that thing chaterred like a red headed stepchild in city driving....It held GREAT at the track but was almost unbearable driving around town. The 3+ does not chatter and holds the same or more power.
I like my RAM. One of my really good friends and I are both running them. No problems.
STAY AWAY from Spec, like Jaime said.
As far as the LS7, I would pass.
The "LS6" clutch as it's called is the stock clutch used on all 01-02 F-bodies and all 01+ C5's. I know a few that have toasted them and also most have had sticky pedal issues. My 01 Z06 had the sticky pedal too. It's due to the crappy design of the pressure plate. Almost identical to the standard "LS1" clutch. One of my other friends is getting ready to rip his out within a month and going with somethign better..
For a daily driver with limited track usage... it's ok. Plus it's cheap as hell. But I'd step up..
BTW.. the slave cylinder comes complete with the throwout bearing. Make sure you upgrade both the master and slave..
Steve
STAY AWAY from Spec, like Jaime said.
As far as the LS7, I would pass.
The "LS6" clutch as it's called is the stock clutch used on all 01-02 F-bodies and all 01+ C5's. I know a few that have toasted them and also most have had sticky pedal issues. My 01 Z06 had the sticky pedal too. It's due to the crappy design of the pressure plate. Almost identical to the standard "LS1" clutch. One of my other friends is getting ready to rip his out within a month and going with somethign better..
For a daily driver with limited track usage... it's ok. Plus it's cheap as hell. But I'd step up..
BTW.. the slave cylinder comes complete with the throwout bearing. Make sure you upgrade both the master and slave..
Steve
Originally Posted by cantdrv65
Ive had great luck with the Spec 3+ so far.
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Originally Posted by Steve01SS
The "LS6" clutch as it's called is the stock clutch used on all 01-02 F-bodies
Guys, I ended up going with the LS6 clutch. Money is kind of tight so I had to skip the aluminum flywheel, I'm just going to use the new LS6 one that comes with that setup.
So this weekend, going in I have the LS6 setup, new master, new slave, brass pilot bushing, Koolsox to insulate the lines with, an LAPD remote bleeder, and I'm also going to change the trans fluid & rear end with Royal Purple since I don't even know if they have ever been changed. I will be so glad to have my baby back...I have been driving my grand prix this week since it was no fun to drive with a sticking clutch
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Originally Posted by keliente
I heard this is not true. The clutch is different/better from the 98-00 f-bodies, but it is not an LS6 clutch. It even has a different part number.
Guys, I ended up going with the LS6 clutch. Money is kind of tight so I had to skip the aluminum flywheel, I'm just going to use the new LS6 one that comes with that setup.
So this weekend, going in I have the LS6 setup, new master, new slave, brass pilot bushing, Koolsox to insulate the lines with, an LAPD remote bleeder, and I'm also going to change the trans fluid & rear end with Royal Purple since I don't even know if they have ever been changed. I will be so glad to have my baby back...I have been driving my grand prix this week since it was no fun to drive with a sticking clutch
Guys, I ended up going with the LS6 clutch. Money is kind of tight so I had to skip the aluminum flywheel, I'm just going to use the new LS6 one that comes with that setup.
So this weekend, going in I have the LS6 setup, new master, new slave, brass pilot bushing, Koolsox to insulate the lines with, an LAPD remote bleeder, and I'm also going to change the trans fluid & rear end with Royal Purple since I don't even know if they have ever been changed. I will be so glad to have my baby back...I have been driving my grand prix this week since it was no fun to drive with a sticking clutch
Last edited by SideStep; Aug 8, 2006 at 09:44 AM.