Meh. 98 corvette coupe.

I have searched...I have spoken with many experts...and still I am like when it comes to making a decision

I need to revamp my clutch. Not so much the clutch but the hydraulics. I am SO FREAKING SICK of the pedal sticking to the floor. It's probably the slave/master + the fact that the lines get so hot and burn the fluid so fast...but since I have 72k miles I am just going to do everything at one time.

Just normal driving, it sticks. I was trying to merge into fast traffic today, shifted second and lifted off the pedal, it stuck, then finally caught and the tires chirped as traction control came on It's kind of dangerous.

I change the fluid every 3-4 days and keep it super clean but now it's just getting worse. I drive the car to work every day so I can't really live with this problem much longer.

I'm going to stay with a stock-esque clutch. For one thing I love this car as-is, and won't do more to it besides a couple of bolt ons. Money doesn't really permit a huge blower anyway And since I'll be moving next year, the light bolt on stage is going to be a rather permanent one for my car.

With that being said I don't want a fancy, expensive 600hp clutch. I am going between the Ls7 and LS6 setups, with new LS6 master & slave, brass pilot bushing, and a new throwout bearing (anyone got the GM part # for the throwout?)

I'm confused on the flywheel. I was thinking of going to a lighter one but damn I hear 50/50 comments either way. My #1 job for this car is to be a daily driver. Then auto crossing, then the occasional (no more than once a month) drag racing on street tires. Thoughts?? I know I can just resurface my stock one, but I don't really want to. If I go LS7 I'd have to get a new flywheel anyway, and if I go Ls6 clutch I want to try the AL i think...

 

If you're doing a clutch, do a Centerforce Dual Friction - for the price, you win and it holds decently. They drive like stock because of the throw out weights on them and they hold decently well. Just my opinion, but definately grab some 2004 z06 hydraulics...

 

whatever you do DO NOT use a centerforce, I've tried them in the past and they are absolute crap on our cars, biggest waist of time and $$ in my life, everybody that told me how great they were never had experience with them...... ........... .......................... but now I know.. (also, the throw out weights put too much pressure on the slave when trying to disengage..)

seeing as how you dont want to spend much $$, your plan you have now is pretty good, I've resurfaced flywheels in the past and its great, only cost 40bucks, so if your going to go w/ a stock flywheel I say resurface the one you have now and grab an ls6 pressure plate and disc, slave, master, seals, ect... I wouldnt go aluminum flywheel if your in heavy traffic daily....

I'm using a McLeod twin disc w/steel flywheel, McLeod master and ls6 slave... handles 5kdumps all day long... I auto-x w/slicks alot, and also my daily driver...... the absolute best clutch for our cars.!

 

a buddy of mine with a GTO just put a ls7 in its not the best cluch but better then his stocker for sure... i just ordered a textralia clutch with new hydraulics for my frc. a guy i know with a 427 has it and it drives so smooth. my stock clutch is hurting bad went 12.84@ 109.97 stock and then at etown last weekend went 13.2 @109 in the 100 degree heat then smoked the clutch on the second run with coolant temps of over 240 and oil temps like 235... was freaking HOT.

 

Why is this even up for debate? You need a clutch that handles a bit more power than the current setup, and is streetable. LS7 clutch, case closed?

 

I would highly recommend making sure that the hydraulics are upgraded to 04 specs. Also, if you do use a LS7 clutch there are a few tips and tricks needed to install on a LS1 motor.

Chad

 

Keliente, don't see a description of your set-up. So I will assume your rwhp is 390 or less.

I've made 500 passes in stock C5Z06 and 33 now on the C6Z.

I can tell you that I don't recommend the LS7 clutch to anyone who plans to make passes. It's fine on the street but not at the track.

My C5Zs glazed the clutch twice in 500 passes. The C6Z glazes at least once a day at the drags. The LS7 clutch won't tolerate slip, period. The LS6 clutch will. LS7 clutch won't accept a launch rpm >3800 no matter how fast the clutch release is.

I've not met a single C6Z owner at the drags who likes the LS7 clutch.

Ranger

 

Sorry Ranger - no set up really. Vararam, shifter, catback, probably less than 320hp. Maybe will add headers in the future.

 

Then the LS6 clutch should give you good service. I'd suggest replacing all the clutch parts and related hydraulic. A remote bleeder is a nice addition and so is sheathing the hydraulic lines in KoolSox to reduce the heat load. Might want to consider a McLeod adjustable master.

But you need a very good installer to ensure you remain free of vibration.

Ranger

 

All I know (Mainly from Jaime (V-Series Tech)) is to stay way clear of Spec clutches. Sorry, but that's about all my clutch info.

Before I sold my 04Z06, I was having the same issue (just not nearly as bad as yours apparently) with the clutch sticking, but with mine, it was only while "getting on it." I really drove her nicely most of the time, but when I first bought it, it needed rear tires after only 18K miles, so the first owner must've really burned the crap outta the clutch, b/c most of the people I've spoken to with Z06's have had no probs with their clutches, some w/more than 70K miles on them.

Let us know what you decide, and how you like it once it's installed.

 

KoolSox, that's what else I was going to ask about. That's the best stuff to get? Is it like a tape or a wrap etc? I was going to do a remote bleeder also. Clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, pilot bushing (going to brass) throwout bearing, master, slave, add bleeder, add koolsox, and possibly a hardened output shaft while its all apart.

 

To help with your pedal woes, here are three clutch fluid issue threads to review:

Clutch Pedal Woes--Fluid Impact

C6Z06 Clutch Hydraulic Fluid--the Chevy Spec

Clutch Pedal Woes--Fluid Changing Kit

Ranger

 

Thanks Ranger....BTW, when you recommended a VERY GOOD INSTALLER, do you recommend, say, a dealership? I mean, how do I know it's a really knowledgable installer? What can we look for when we're searching?

 

I agree with Ranger on going with the ls6 clutch for your power level. OEM quality and should last some time with less than z06 power.

If you order a new slave it will come with a new throwout bearing so dont worry about the bearing part number.

On the flywheel I would stick with the stocker for everyday driving. Resurface yours or get a new GM flywheel. They can be found on ebay for $100 new.

 

"KOOLSOX is an impressive new double layered fiberglass sock designed to add extra protection to exposed spark plug boots and wires."

I used them to keep the heat off the clutch hydraulic lines. Cheap insurance for helping avoid pedal woes. Must be installed while you have everything apart.

Ranger

 

I highly recommend doing the install yourself. Its not that bad of a job and if you have a spare weekend you and a buddy should be able to get it done. Plus you will have the piece of mind that it was done right and will learn a few things about your car in the process.

Here is a nice write up.
http://64.81.110.163/~dope/c5_clutch_install_pics.html

 

Finding the right installer takes research. Here is my usual advice....

Four small suggestions to those facing a clutch replacement.

(1) Seach the CF and LS1tech archives (C5 Z06 and C5 Tech) for the words "clutch" AND "vibration" because there is a history of post-clutch-swap woes you need to be aware of.

(2) Choose your installer carefully. If you don't, the odds are good that you will not be happy with the results. You want a technician with a lot of (favorable) experience in swapping C5/C6 clutches.

(3) Insist that the new clutch assembly be sent to a reputable machine shop for balancing before the installation. Do this even if the installer insists it is unnecessary, "because it comes balanced by the manufacturer."

(4) Before you drop your car off for the installation, be very careful to memorize how much your shifter vibrates under various conditions.

Anyone that shrugs and ignores this advice has heighten the odds they will end up with notable drive train vibrations, originating from the clutch assembly, and they will have a bad time getting them resolved by their installer or anyone else.

Ranger

 

Thanks LS1 Jeff and Ranger. Good advice. Different opinions, but both good advice.

 

This guy's the man.
I think he's the stock clutch master. like obi one.

Nice write up bro. If it wasn't for your post/experience....i'd be recommending LS7 clutchs all day....just cause it "seems" like it would be better.

Thanks for your advice.

Jamie

 

Thanks for the kind words, Jamie. My advice on this and other topics tends to be from my own personal experience owning, drag racing and maintaining my Corvettes, breakage-free thus far.

Ranger